Walkabout Diary

"Walkabout Outback 2005" is the chosen name for our Travel Diary for 2005; somewhat different to our previous Travel Diary's titled "Journey of Discovery". As in past years we bid our farewells to neighbors and friends in Binalong Bay, it sure was a pleasant surprise when our friends arranged an evening meal consisting of Asian flavour dishes along with wine plus beer of course as a farewell to us both; something that we both appreciated immensely.
So having said our final farewells and locked down Binalong Bay we headed off to Launceston to say hello and bid farewell to our children and our other friends. The time in Launceston was also spent putting the final touches to our equipment and then fitting new tyre's to the Motorhome and fitting new disc pads to "Digger" for the journey ahead.


Motorhome with new tyre's fitted	Changing Disc Pads on "Digger"	Our Cabin on the "Spirit of Tasmania 2"

May 1st
As in past years we visited my sister at Carrick had a cuppa, chewed the fat and then headed off to Devonport to board the Bass Strait Ferry "Spirit of Tasmania"
As usual we were many hours to early to board the Ship so we parked up at the Point on the Eastern side of the river, we were to watch the large ship dredging the river, went for a stroll around the caravan park had our evening meal and headed down to board the Spirit of Tasmania 2.
The evening was very cool so we looked forward to boarding; then up to our cabin and then down to the lounge for a beer or two.
Bob and Evelyn from the Island Wanderers Chapter were also on board so we met in the lounge and spoke at length about our travels and it is obvious that we may meet on the way around Western Australia in a couple of months time.
I kicked on until the bar closed at one am and then off to bed pretty chirpy and went off to sleep pretty quickly for the trip was very smooth.
May 2nd
We were woken about four forty five by the intercom indicating that we would be embarking at six thirty. This was to be the case and being on the cargo deck we came off pretty quick and headed for the service station at South Melbourne to fuel up.
Shock, Horror! The cost of diesel was $1.15.9 so this gives some indication how much higher the price of diesel would get as get away from the cities.
We filled a gas bottle plus filled drums for the generator and chainsaw and then decided to dodge the Western Ring road and head up through Coburg etc and then onto the Hume Highway heading for Tocumwal.
We stopped at the rest area fifty kilometers from the city and had breakfast, the day was sunny and there were no clouds in the sky, and this is how it would be for all of the day and with no wind the going was easy.
We headed into Shepparton and left the Motorhome at the information centre and headed down to Mooroopna in "Digger" (our Suzuki) to the Ardmona factory, which was pretty crowded, we made heaps of purchases, which called for Liz to make many storage changes to facilitate our purchases.
Then we had lunch and then headed off to Tocumwal to set up camp for a few days; then the first disaster occurred.
As they say before you proceed to drive off the hard pan you should first check the ground! Did I do this? NO! I proceeded to drive down onto what looked like well travelled ground down near the beautiful Murray River.
I spent the next half hour digging and trying to get the Motorhome out of the sand to no avail, there was certainly plenty of advise coming from other campers though not much in the physical sense.
Given that there were road works going on in Tocumwal I hopped into "Digger" (Suzuki) and drove and sought the assistance of council workers to pull the Motorhome out of the sand bog.
A four wheel drive back hoe tractor was sent out and after hooking a chain onto the Motorhome it was full on and frankly it appeared at one stage that it wouldn't’t budge and then the Motorhome came out at a rate of knots.
I offered money or beer as a means of showing our appreciation though this was refused and so a simple thank you from us both was all he would accept.
We set up camp on the hard pan and had the fire going and out came a couple of cans for happy hour and then it was time for our evening meal all cooked on the fire and stainless steel plate.
Being a long day we watched Television for a couple of hours and then lights out feeling very tired.
Kilometers Travelled 275


Our Campsite at Finley Beach at Tocumwal	Liz beside Murray Cod at Tocumwal	Koala near our campsite at Finley Beach Tocumwal

May 3rd
We awoke this morning to a cacophony of sound, there had to be a thousand Corella's screeching it was absolutely ear piercing. After breakfast I walked into Tocumwal to get the morning newspaper and had a quick look around the town.
There have been many changes to the streetscape since we were here two years ago, even the tourist centre has now been closed and has become an ice cream-coffee shop. The township is still vibrant with everyone friendly and helpful.
Back to the camp and read the paper and then went looking for Koala's for we had heard them during the evening and we walked about one kilometer before we were to find two perched in the fork of Murray Gums chewing leaves.
We decided to go back into town and found that several shops including the op-shop does not open on a Tuesday so we went to the butchers and purchased two humongous Pork chops for tea and then had a quick look around the IGA Supermarket and then strolled back to the camp.
After lunch we chewed the fat with the others camping near us and like us they enjoy the Murray River for the camping and freedom that it offers. A couple of locals came down and indicated that they camped here during the summer months and alerted us to the family of Koala's that frequent the areas. They also informed us that the Corella's were becoming a pest in the area stripping the Murray Gums of their leaves. The interesting thing is that they are not eating the leaves just ripping off the small branches and letting them fall to the ground, apparently further up the river the trees have died due to the destructive nature of the birds.
We were to take further photo's of the Koala's and witnessed two fighting over who was going to get to eat the most succulent leaves on a particular tree. We spent the rest of the afternoon reading and relaxing before lighting the fire for a cuppa and to cook our evening meal, again we will have an early night and read before dropping off to sleep


Lone fisherman at Yarrawonga	Part of the Mineral display	Bridge from Yarrawonga to Mulwala

May 4th
Awoke this morning to the sounds of Kookaburra's and then thirty minutes later the sound of a thousand Corella's. After breakfast I went for my morning walk and before I left the camp area I was to spot many grey Kangaroos and many species of birds such as Magpies, Major Mitchell's and many other birds that I couldn't identify. I saw one big grey kangaroo go into the Murray River and spent the next ten minutes swimming against the flow of the current, when it finally arrived on the other side it was obvious that it was exhausted for it didn't move off the beach for at least twenty minutes.
It feels strange to camp on the Victorian side of the border between Victoria and New South Wales and then walk across a bridge to Tocumwal (N. S.W.) to buy the newspaper and back again to Finley Beach (Victoria). On checking out the toilets at the back of the old tourist information building I discovered hot showers that I earmarked to visit later in the morning.
When arriving back at the camp we decided to cut a picnic lunch and go touring in Digger for the day, of course we returned to Tocumwal for a beautiful hot shower and then onto look at the Red Cross Op Shop wherein we purchased a couple of items.
Then we drove back over the border and headed for Cobram, a town that appears to service the rural sector. On arrival we went walkabout and looked at the centre of town and ended up in a store called "Go Lo" a cheap goods store; we of course purchased more items then onto St Vincent's De Paul and rummaged without making a purchase.
Back on the road and heading for Yarrawonga, along the way we were to pass countless orchards of peaches and apricots along with many vineyards. We were surprised at the size of the town and had a quick look at some of the stores and bought meat for dinner tonight and then headed towards Lake Mulwala for a picnic lunch. It is obvious that the lake gets plenty of use as there were many small boats on the water fishing. After lunch strolled over and had a talk with a lone fisherman who was fishing from the shore, he informed me that he had taken many hundred pounder Murray Cod in past years though these days he catches mainly seven pounder's. We spoke to a local woman who was happy to enlighten us of the district and its casual way of life. The woman informed us that Lake Mulwala is the storage created by the Yarrawonga weir on the Murray River which supplies all water to the extensive farming, cropping and orchards plus vineyards in the surrounding districts.
Of course the lake is used for the usual aquatic sports in addition to the excellent fishing that targets Murray Cod, Murray Cray, Red fin, Yellow Belly and the endangered Trout Cod, this of course includes the dreaded Carp.
After our lunch we took the advise of the woman and visited the local tourist centre and it was certainly worthwhile not only gathering information for later in trip up the Murray River also information that gave us a much better understanding of the circuit we were on from Tocumwal to Tocumwal.
We paid the fee in the tourist centre and had a look at the extensive rock, gem and mineral collection viewed in a mock up of an underground mine, the collection was donated some years ago and is well worth seeing such a large and beautiful collection of gems and agates etc from around Australia and overseas.
We then made our way to Mulwala over the connecting bridge and discovered there was not as much public ground by the lake, Motels, Guest Houses, Hotels and of course Caravan Parks seem to take up the bulk of the ground by the lake the opposite is the norm on the Yarrawonga side.(Victorian side).
On the drive back to Tocumwal we were to drive through a lot of arid land and then onto the vast canal systems supplying water to cropping and orchards along the way, the vineyards went on for kilometer after kilometer much bigger than those in Tasmania.
On our arrival back in Tocumwal we checked out Town Beach and came to the conclusion that we were better off where we were, we then had a visit from our immediate neighbors when we arrived back at our camp late in the afternoon. We went Koala spotting again and were only able to find two pretty well camouflaged in the Murray Red Gums.
We stoked up our camp fire and cooked tea and as the coolness of the came down we went inside and watched a bit of Television and then off to bed after a good day checking out the immediate area around us.
Kilometers travelled 175


Part of mock underground tunnel with Mineral collection	Dead Murray Gums on Lake Mulwala	Selection of Mineral display

May 5th
This area still has its pleasant moments, being woken by Kookaburra' and Corella's is just one, just outside the Motorhome there were six grey Kangaroo's grazing and they did not move until I was about two metres off them. Then I headed out on my daily walk to Tocumwal to get the paper.
On the daily walk I have met many local people who are so friendly and quite willing to pass on the local history and I get the feeling they do so with some pride in their region, this no doubt has kept us in the area given that we thought we would only stay for a day or two.
When I arrived back at the camp we both thought we would go along the river side track to look at Guilmartin's Beach, another camp area listed in the local guide, even though we only strolled along it took the best part of an hour to get there.
Along the way we were to spot off more Koala's and Kangaroo's who seem to be used to human presence for they did not take off as we approached, it was a pleasant walk though I must say where we are at the moment seems still to be the best camp area.
Back to camp for lunch and we both decided to relax and read the afternoon away though in late afternoon we decided to go into Toc (Tocumwal) and went to the library where the librarian was most helpfull in allowing me to plug my computer into the system and update our diary on the club web site.
Again it was great again to talk to the local people who recognise that you have been around for awhile and are keen to glean as much information from us as we from them.
Back at the camp we chewed the fat with the other two campers and gained the impression that both camps make this area there prime abode as they both live on the road full time, whilst talking we spotted a Koala crossing the track and though they look ungainly walking when they get to the trees that is a different thing unfortunately I did not get the camera quick enough to catch it on the road.
Then we were to witness a L.A.R.C. enter the river from the other side bank and it proceeded down river to where we are and then came ashore then back into the river again, the vehicle appears to be more at home in the river than on land. We were able to get photo's of the strange vehicle, then for tea we decided to have a night off meat and vegetables and settled for jaffles cooked in the coals of the fire and then as the cool of the evening came down inside to watch Dr Who and then read and watched Television until weary then off to bed.


Koala crossed road and up tree	L.A.R.C. on the Murray	Coming ashore at Finley Beach

May 6th
Another glorious day with not a cloud in the sky the forecasts were for showers however, they did not eventuate. The morning walk to the newsagents was a little chilly with a slight southerly spoiling the sunshine, the Corella's were still wreaking havoc on the river gums with gum branch's littering the grass and road. Back at the camp and it was time to move on though first we drove back to Tocumwal to stock up on vegetables for our crawl along the Murray. Finished packing up, we had a final chin wag with our nearest neighbours and then had lunch and headed for the highway.
It is our intention only to go up to the Barmah Forest and camp beside the Murray River once again, the road traffic wasn't to bad though the amount of interstate trucks heading for New South Wales was increasing as we went along. We are on this occasion heading to the camp area in the opposite direction that we did some years ago, we first drove through Percola which has a population of 110 and wheat silo's so we can only assume that the town is a depot for the various grains and other crops in the surrounding district.
We took a wrong turn and went into the Aborigine Community settlement (Yorta Yorta Tribe) and did a quick u-turn and came out and then proceeded along the road towards the Barmah Forest, the problem is that things look different when you come from the other direction.
We took the turn about one kilometer before we should have and found our way down to the Murray after awhile we parked up the Motorhome and then hopped into digger to check out the area, all told we were to do twenty one kilometers before we arrived back at the van. In fact we had done a full circle and along the way came across at least two hundred horses and of course their riders which included sulkies as well.
They were all very friendly with a few perplexed as to the A-frame sticking up the front of Digger more so when we came across the leading group again when we had done the full circle, We eventually found our way to the camp area that we were looking for and being at the side of the Murray River amongst the many Murray River Gums is quite pleasant though their is to much shade to allow the solar panels to do their work I will need to start the generator to watch television tonight as well as charge the batteries.
We went walkabout with a couple of cans for happy hour and chewed the fat firstly with a couple in a caravan and then settled in for happy hour with Tony & Chris CMCA members and found out about camping areas on the Murray that they have come from on their way back to Queensland.
We stoked up the fire on our return to camp and cooked sausages and had an extended happy hour before we went inside to watch Television. The channels unfortunately dropped in and out so we watched a video instead and then off to bed about eleven pm.
Kilometers travelled 99 this is for the Motorhome only


Dharnya Centre Barmah Forest	Entrance exhibit at Centre	Internal exhibit at centre

May 7th
It was a beautiful day with no clouds in the sky, though due to the trees around the camp it was hard to get the solar panels working to full capacity, after breakfast I walked up through the muster camp where there are currently two hundred and eighty horses and riders here for the weekend horse camp and then out along the gravel road for about three kilometers and then back to camp.
Tony came over again this morning and spoke of their travels around the country to date and then we both went to have a look at the Dharnya Centre which is the Yorta Yorta Tribe interpretation centre for the Barmah Forest. The centre is well set out giving the history of the tribe and the various tools and spears used for their survival in previous centuries, it took some time to look at all the exhibits it was two hours well spent to get to understand the tribe and Barmah State Forest and Barmah State Park.
We then walked back through the Muster grounds looking at the horses and talking to the riders, that is those that did not go out on the days ride.
After lunch we hopped into digger and travelled east along the Murray River through the Barmah Forest which is massive, we just drove and then followed the river along and saw plenty of people camping and enjoying themselves. When we arrived at the end of the track, due to the bridge being impassable, we came across a camping family so we hopped out of the car and spent an hour or so talking about the river and the fishing.
He showed us a Murray River Cod that he had just caught prior to our arrival, it was just above the legal size limit of five hundred millimeters also whilst there he caught one of the dreaded Carp which he promptly ended its life by taking it back in the bush.
As we set out to return to our camp we were following what we thought was the right track and instead we were following the river until we came across a caravan park so we had to turn back and find our right turn and then headed back to camp. We had travelled along the beautiful Murray for a total of forty four kilometers in old Digger.
We stoked up the fire and cooked a good old fashioned stew in the camp oven and while that was happening Tony came over for a later than normal happy hour, we had tea by the fire and then as the chill of the evening set in we went inside and watched another video before going to bed to read. All in all it has been a full day and the virtues of towing the car behind the Motorhome is certainly the right decision allowing you to branch out from the camp in what ever direction you desire to go and do what you want.
Kilometers travelled 44 in Digger


Murray River in Barmah Forest	Popular Murray Cod	Horse Muster Camp

May 8th
Another fine morning with no breeze or clouds though it has been our coldest and morning yet, I walked further than normal this morning just to get warm before the sun cleared the Murray Gums.
Tony and Chris dropped in on the way out and chewed the fat and indicated that they would be going to our campsite located at Tocumwal, they also left with us a list of areas they had stopped in prior to arriving here at the Barmah Forest Camp. It was interesting to note that they know our Deputy Sheriff Doug who they travelled with for awhile a couple of years ago.
Most of those camping here pulled out today with just one group coming in to set up camp, the horse riders have now become acquainted with us mainly through seeing us in Digger driving around the area when they are riding. Tomorrow they have their final Gymkhana and then the muster wraps up on Tuesday and they all head for home, they are from all over Australia and we were to speak to a woman who had come over from New Zealand especially for the muster who indicated that she is fed up with the lack of freedom to camp or travel over a lot of their land and indicated that she is going home to pack up and move to Australia.
After lunch we went and spoke to another pair camping and even though we have conversed a lot over the past few days we still do not know their names, the bloke gave us a lot of free camps further up the road which we may find handy. On the road out of the camp we came across a black snake about two metres long that was in the process of crossing the road, we went back to camp for we had forgot the camera and when we arrived back it had skedaddled. We then went into the township of Barmah and bought the sunday paper, there still is no mobile phone signal so Liz will not be getting calls from the kids on Mothers Day which is today.
On our return Liz continued with her cross stitch and I went for a walk on the Barmah Lake trail, unfortunately it wound its way from the lake back to the Dharnya Aboriginal Centre and then back to the camp, I still have not spotted any Koala's though tonight I heard them close to camp so I know where to look for them in the morning. Two Kangaroos took off when I startled them and as usual there is a lot of bird life including the noisy Corella's.
We pulled out the camp oven and baked a chicken with all the usual baked spuds etc for tea for Mothers Day the evening was beautiful with no breeze and after tea stoked up the fire and sat out under the canopy of stars and only came inside to listen to the Collingwood game wherein they were flogged by Fremantle. As television reception is so poor we will play another video and then off to bed to read, all in all it had been an excellent day taking in the walks and talking to fellow travelers and going into Barmah and inspecting the old river punt they used for many years before the bridge over the Murray was built, we still seem to mesmerised by the mighty Murray River and all that it supports in its travels to the sea on the South Australian Coast.
Kilometers travelled in Digger 19

May 9th
This morning was cloudy and didn't look being a good day at all though later in the day that was to change. I took a different course this morning on my walk and did part of the River Road and came back by the Lakes Walk Way. When nearing camp I veered off and spoke to Mauri and Bernie (finally found out their names on the day of departure) who are going home to Frankston this morning and then in a week or so heading up the Birdsville Track.
Back at our own camp we decided due to the cloud and cold to head out towards Echuca, I hauled out the chainsaw and cut the lengths of Murray red gum that burns beautifully and creates lovely hot coals and then packed up the camp.
Mauri and Bernie stopped by on their way out and gave us a few more hints as to where to camp upon the Murray, the only problem to date is that the solar panels are not getting a chance to fully charge the batteries each day due to the amount of trees and lack of cleared space. The panels are only getting a maximum of four hours charge a day and this has been one of the considerations to move on for the batteries have not been full since last week.
We decided to drive Digger out to the bitumen rather than get a good dusting down on the gravel road only problem was I turned right towards the bitumen and Liz turned left towards the river, when I reached the bitumen no Liz so I thought maybe she had driven the nine kilometers to the township of Barmah. On my arrival no Liz so I decided that she must have taken the wrong turn, Liz turned up ten minutes later and then we were on our way to Echuca.
We were now in full sunshine for the clouds had disappeared and the panels were working overtime which was great, on our arrival at the outskirts of Echuca we parked up the Motorhome and went into town in Digger and then to the Big W store and spent the best part of an hour and made a few purchases of shoes etc and then onto Safeway's (Woolworth's) refilled Digger and the generator container and then onto Cole's to buy cheese that had been reduced in price and a few other items.
Back to the Motorhome for lunch and then to the old port of Echuca to look at the old paddle steamers, there were no paddle steamers operating for they reckon this is the non tourist time of the year though you could have fooled me given the different state number plates. The only thing that has changed since we were here last is that there are more house boats for rent to ply the Murray.
Back to the Motorhome and then hooked up digger and we were on our way late in the afternoon heading to Torrumbarry Weir one of the places recommended by Mauri.
On our arrival we realised that we had been here before at the weir due to the caravan park located right on the weir, When we looked at instructions given to us we noted that there was a turn off just prior to the weir so we went along that and found all the free stays on the Murray which is great.
It didn't take long to start the fire and put the billy on for a late cuppa and then we spoke to several people who were fishing the area, we find our number plates bring instant discussion about our trip away.
The area is great, though the same problem plenty of shade and trees not good for charging batteries through the solar panels so will probably re- locate in the morning to catch more of the sun.
There is no telephone or television though we bought a cheap video this afternoon of the "The Men in Black 2"which we are going to watch and then off to bed to read.
It might appear that we come inside the Motorhome when it gets dark; that is not the case, it is when we experience the first Mosquito we head in doors away from the fire, The nights are still balmy winter has still to arrive and it is not dark until six thirty pm.
Kilometers travelled in Motorhome 93 kilometers


Paddle Steamers at Echuca	Paddle Steamers and build date	Paddle Steamer plus River Boat

May 10th
Another superb day on the Murray though not good for solar panels again, off for my walk and as this is a new camp site I take a clock with me and walk for thirty minutes then back again and this usually equates to six Kilometers all told. On the walk I was to come across a house at least a hundred years old that stands on the bank of the river, it was unusual to to see turkeys, ducks and goats this close to the river bank, they have there own little bit of paradise.
I noted that sheep lined the bank and down to the river on the N.S.W. side and there must have been over five hundred, when I had walked the thirty minutes I came across a houseboat moored to the shore complete with rods at the rear, were they doing it hard? I think not.
Back at camp and we decided to move and catch as much morning sun as we could to charge the batteries though at eleven thirty am the sun dipped behind the Murray Gums so on went the generator to boost the batteries.
I helped a couple of old blokes to get their boat into the river off the bank, one bloke was ninety one and really agile for his age, they went off for the day and on their return at three pm I helped again to get their boat on the trailer for which they gave me a Murray Crayfish and some shrimp plus cheese to catch fish.
Liz decided to do a bit of washing so water was fetched and a washing line erected then the toilet tent went up, then we carted water from the river to wash down Digger who was absolutely covered in dust.
After lunch we hopped into Digger and found ourselves in the Township of Gunbower which services the large dairy farms in the area, we tried to buy a lambs liver for baiting the opera house traps for Murray Crayfish; no hope mate the locals buy them before they hit the shelf.
We had a look around the area and then back to camp where I boiled up potato to bait the opera house nets and then set in various places in the Murray.
Then out came the rods for the first time and I used the bait the old blokes gave me, shrimps for all types of fish and cheese for the elusive Murray Rive Cod, the old bloke told me that the cheese first attracts the shrimp and then the cod take them and the cheese and then bingo.
Other than a single jingle of the bells there has been no bites to speak of so I will leave them out overnight.
We had salad for tea for the days are still warm and then inside to watch Television and then off to bed to read.
Kilometers travelled in Digger 32


Houseboat moored to river bank	Murray River Crayfish	Cooked Murray River Crayfish

May 11th
After breakfast I went around the pots and they contained only river shrimp so I released them for I did not expect to do any fishing, when checking the rod I had in overnight the baits were missing. So, off I went for my walk on a pleasant though chilly morning with steam coming up off the river. One thing that a chilly morning does is makes you walk faster to keep warm thus the time for the distance comes down each morning.
On my return to camp I decided to give the fishing one more go, so I baited up both rods with cheese and then drifted off to get some water for our showers this morning, and then jingle jingle and the rod started to bounce though by the time I arrived the rod went quiet. then the bells rattled again and I hooked and started pulling in and landed my first Murray Cod, just legal size.
I cleaned the fish and then collected wood around the shore then the bells rattled again the difference this time was that the rod was jumping and bending over.
Then it was a struggle to haul the fish to shore and on landing it was a beauty, another larger Murray Cod, there is no doubt that the cheese (what sort, can't tell you mate you don't expect me to give the old blokes secrets away do you?) works also I noted that the rod that I rigged the same as the ninety one year old bloke was doing all the catching; another lesson well learnt!
Whilst I was fishing etc Liz had the washing machine out and did all the sheets and other clothes that she was unable to hand wash.
After cleaning this fish that produced huge fillets it was time for our showers it was nearly 1pm and time for lunch.
As the Motorhome was again in shadow we took our lunch over by the river bank in the sun and after lunch we went walkabout down towards the Weir and then headed back to camp to to relax as we will be moving on tomorrow to the Cohuna Forest, of course on the mighty Murray.
Before we knew it was time for tea as time has gone really fast today, the bonus is we are still in T-Shirts enjoying the cloudless skies and fluctuating river breezes.
I baited up the nets with the frames of the fish so we will see if we catch the elusive Murray Crayfish when I check them in the morning.
The fish was cooked over the camp fire in our special Ballarat fry pan in which we put a little olive oil, it took a while to cook the fish the fillets were so thick so in future I will need to slice them, we had them with a salad and pasta; the fish is exceptional I can understand why people target them. I have to say I thought that they would be like the Tassie river and sea cod though that is not the case, the meat is coarse and very white and tastes lovely not of mud as we thought they might.
After tea we watched Tellie for a while and then off to bed to read, we are still not in mobile phone range and the television is a bit fuzzy though watchable.


Steam rising off the Murray	My first Murray Cod	Second Murray Cod much larger

May 12
After breakfast I went around the four nets that I placed in the river last night and only one produced a Murray Crayfish which Liz cooked whilst I went for my walk, I was met by the turkeys again gobbling away and a small Jack Russell barked until I told it to p-ss off.
I re-baited the rods when I arrived back at camp and there wasn't even a bite this morning, as we are moving on today towards Cohuna we started to pack for the trip ahead.
We are both surprised on how good the weather has been not a cloud in the sky and quite warm for this time of year, it took us close to two hours to do what normally takes us fifteen minutes by the time we had cups of tea and I waited for the jingle of the bells to alert me that I had a bite. As we had only eight kilometers of gravel road to traverse Liz drove Digger out to the bitumen before we hooked up and then onto and through Gunbower onto the Murray Valley Highway,
There was only a slight breeze not enough to slow us down and the traffic was light with very few trucks, we arrived at Cohuna a bit after twelve o'clock and parked up and went to ring back to Tassie to check on any mail that may have arrived and we were informed there is heaps to be forwarded on.
We were able to check our messages and then we went into the sports store and bought another two bells for our rods then to the tourist centre then to the takeaway where Liz purchased some chips for lunch our first taste of junk food since leaving home.
We sat in the park at Cohuna and had chips in bread smothered in tomato sauce, we took on water then headed out to the Five Sleeper Track that would take us back to the camping spots on the Murray, the road in was bit rough so we unhooked Digger which Liz drove following me in.
We selected the sunniest spot we could find, though we will have trouble with the amount of trees that provide shade at the various camp spots, we then set up and it didn't take long to get the fire going and the rods in the river, baited with cheese of course, and then we had another cuppa.
I had only one bite then I set about baiting the six nets and then selecting spots in the river trying to catch the elusive Murray Crayfish.
It was a bit chilly so we had tea inside the Motorhome and as their is no television service available we will listen to the radio and read for awhile before opting for the warm bed tonight.
Kilometers travelled 48

May 13th
After breakfast baited the rods and then went around the nets and only had about twenty five river prawns and one Murray crayfish, then off to my usual walk that follows the twisty bends if the Murray. It looks as if we were fortunate in choosing this campsite for the others that I was to see seemed to have to much shade for this time of this year especially on the chilly mornings.
The bells on the rods were to go most of the day though what ever was nibbling would not hook up which I found frustrating, Liz again did her washing and then settled in for the day, that is both of us to read and relaxed by the River.
Lunch consisted of river prawns and Murray River Crayfish and a bit of salad it was great and I was hoping to catch a Murray Cod though wasn't to be the case.
Later in the afternoon we went around the nets and other than a few river shrimp, we were surprised to trap a turtle so we took it back to camp for a few photo's and as you can imagine it was not co-operative wanting to stay in its shell.
After photo's we released it back into the river and even then it didn't want to come out of its shell, then we had a barbecue for tea along with a longer happy hour and then later as the cold came down into the Motorhome to listen to the football and then off to bed to read; it was just a lazy day were we did not move much at all.


Turtle being a little shy	Released Turtle back into the Murray River

May 14th
After breakfast I went around the nets and the first five yielded river prawns only and the sixth net whilst pulling it in it became jammed thus I broke the rope so I thought I would make up pole and hook and see if I could retrieve it.
I had difficulty finding a branch straight and long enough so decided to go for my walk and on the way back was able to locate a suitable limb.
Back in the camp and baited up the rods and then carried the water for our showers and a bit of washing that Liz wanted to do, then took the pole and hook to try and retrieve the lost Opera house net. It didn't matter how much I tried I was unable to locate it though I did pull up an old wire trap that had obviously been in the water for a long time; I was just about to give up and write the net off when I hooked it, what a stroke of luck. Back in camp I renewed the rope plus one other that I was bit dubious about.
Then it was lunch time and there was much more activity on the river with boats no doubt due to the weekend, so we settled in to read the afternoon away and semi pack for we are moving on tomorrow.
We stoked up the fire during the afternoon for the temperature started to drop with cloud cover coming over, the first clouds since we left Tocumwal, we were to hear a lot of gun shots no doubt they were shooting at Kangaroo I wish I was able to pick up some myself for I know the Murray Crayfish really take to it.
We cooked up a noodle soup for our tea complete with celery, chinese cabbage, egg mixture and dim sims on the fire and sat and consumed it while listening to the footy and then when the fire died down later we again elected to watch a video, Robin Hood which will see us through until bedtime.
May 15th
After my walk we packed the remainder of the camp up and hit the road, the morning was fine though a little crisp as we bade farewell to this spot on the Murray River.
In no time at all we arrived in Cohuna and parked the vehicles up and went to the Post Office and rang back home to catch up with everyone and what they were doing, it was strange to hear of fog and cold weather for other than crisp mornings and a little chill of a night it has been quite warm.
We wandered around looking at the shops and bought a few things at the supermarket and went back to the van and joined the many that were lunching in the park by the weir, after lunch we went and watched the excavators digging out a channel for a new weir and then we took a call from Garry who is currently working in Berri. There is no doubt we will catch up with him as we work our way west, at the moment Liz is starting to become concerned that we may hit the bottom end of Western Australia in the full onslaught of winter.
We drove around the outskirts of Cohuna, a township of 2,200 people and saw a lot of Industrial plants and old museums that were not open, then it was back to the Motorhome and then drove over to the football ground to give Digger a good wash for it was covered in dust as much of our time has been spent on gravel roads along the Murray. The Solar Panels were extremely dirty and it is a wonder they operated at all though after about and hour or so every thing was spick and span and we headed back the way we came and pulled into a small rest area at the entrance of the forest and read the sunday papers and listened to the football on the radio.
Of course we lit up a fire and cooked our tea and ate it outside at the tables until the mosquito's started to worry us. As there is no television coverage we will read our books this evening and as the mobile phone is now in a working area we will make a few calls before going to bed.
Kilometers Travelled 14
May 16th
It was a strange evening I awoke for some unknown reason and heard the fridge trying to cycle and then turn itself off, on checking the batteries they were well up so there was no reason for this to happen and after cleaning terminals all was back to normal, or so I thought.
Around six am it occurred again and no amount of playing would get the fridge to cycle normally, I then checked the terminals at the fridge proper and though I didn't appear to do anything the fridge started to work as it should.
I of course went for my morning walk and come upon a woman who was just strolling and listening to a radio through head phones and as I came alongside I bid her good morning and it frightened the living suitcase out of her. Given that we were in the bush kilometers from anywhere it must of worried her a bit, It didn't take long and I was well in front of her.
We drove into Cohuna individually parked up and then went onto the Chemist, Post Office and rang Julie about the mail build up to date and then went into the Op-Shop across the road, back to the Motorhome and hooked Digger on behind and bid Cohuna farewell and headed off towards Swan Hill.
The day was sunny with no cloud again and a slight wind on our tail, we were to pass the Charm Lakes where there was a salt making plant with huge mounds of salt and a little further up the road we stopped for lunch.
When we resumed I noted there did not appear to be any charge going into the truck starting battery from the alternator and was only being charged from the Solar Panels, to check this theory the Solar Panels were disconnected and true enough their was no charge being recorded on the voltage and amp meters.
We put this to the back of our mind and stopped in at Lake Boga and checked out the foreshore and the Catalina Museum. This lake was the landing place for the Catalina flying boats in world war 2, information states this area was selected due to the Japanese planes not having the ability to fly this far south without refuelling, this fleet of amphibious planes were maintained and flown from here.
Onto Swan Hill and we headed for an Auto Electrician to check out the truck alternator and he reported that the alternator was putting out 14 volts though this wasn't being sent to the battery, unfortunately he wasn't able to check it out until tomorrow morning and offered us the use of his yard at the back of the workshop for the night, we took this up and parked up and then hopped into Digger and had a good look around Swan Hill.
We actually crossed over the border into N.S.W. to check out the boats on the Murray River wherein we found only one the "Kookaburra" which was a modern steel cruise boat so we went and checked out the old bridge which unfortunately is suffering through old age being built out of the Murray Red Gum.
There is so much steel now used to strengthen the old wooden structure that the beauty of the old engineering from the 18 hundreds is hard to see without walking the river bank and under the structure to see the old workmanship.
Near the Bridge they have the stem post of the the old barge "Gem" which was re-fitted with a steam engine and deckhouse and plied the Murray River in 1886, the rest of the boat is still intact in the Steam Paddle boat museum.
Then on to look at the town centre and do a bit of shopping in the el cheapo shops where again we bought rubbish and then down to the Op-Shop and purchased some old fry pans and pots rather than use the good pots on the firepot.
In all it has been an eventful day in many ways so we look forward to getting back onto the banks of the Murray and relaxing away from the towns, It was strange we asked a couple about parking meters in the centre of town and they stated " we don't know we are from Tasmania". it turned out that they live in Devonport and left last Monday, so it took them a week to get to Swan Hill and us a fortnight!
We have contacted Garry and find that he is currently working in Berri in South Australia so we will catch up with him when we arrive in that area next week, it was also a pleasant surprise to receive a phone call from Peter & Marlene who are heading for Western Australia and are about two weeks in front of us.
Kilometers travelled 106


Modern River Cruise Boat	Stem Post from the "Gem"	Old Bridge with steel strengthening

May 17th
After a good nights sleep I went off up the street to buy a paper and was enjoying the stroll until I was approached by indigenous people asking for money, the answer of course was no and then they started into sob stories so I just walked off.
Back at the Motorhome and found that the auto electrician does not start work until 9am, when he arrived I drove into the shed so we were over the pits and four hours later we were no closer to solving the problem after checking all fusable links , earth and even the glove box, the dash board and bull bar plus grille was removed.We did not stop for lunch and there was only one fuse to check and we hadn't noticed it before due to it being under the radiator top up bottle, it was a bit corroded for it looked like overflow from the bottle had been going over it, new fuse block and whamo! the instruments showed that the charge at last was going into the battery. A check by machine showed all was working again, so it turned out that a $4.40 part that failed cost $275 tracking it down.
On a positive side we were able to stay in the yard again and hook into their power for the night, the owner's father is a member of the Murray Goldfields Chapter and he was able to tell all about the free stays in the area if we wished to stay on; though we intend to move up the road to the Nyah Forest on the Murray of course.
We jumped into Digger and went and used the showers at the comfort station and then back to the Motorhome and picked up the Computer and headed off to the Library to upload this diary to the club site. The problem was that I was supposed to be there at ten am this morning not at three pm and there was a new person on who wouldn't allow me to use their facilities and sent us up to the local internet cafe. This turned out fine for the bloke was very helpful and allowed us to use his facilities for $2 and then we went of to Safeway to buy bread and other things for our travels, back and on came the Television and then settled in for the night and off to bed for it had been a tiring day.
May 18th
Awoke to another cool morning and wandered up to get the newspaper and then back to pack up and get on the road.
We said our farewells to the owner of the business that allowed us to use his yard, especially supplying us with power last night and then we were on the road.
The land became undulating as we drove up the Murray Valley Highway though the going was easy for there was no wind just a another fine sunny day with a little cloud, the country we were driving through was mostly vineyards and a few wine vats etc close to the highway, there was also bags of oranges at road side stalls for $1.50 per large bag we would have bought if we were not about to go into fruit fly areas in a couple of days. We were to purchase a butternut pumpkin for eighty cents and then back on the road. We didn't expect to travel far today and when we arrived at the township of Wood Wood we entered the Nyah State Forest to make camp.
So here were again camped by the bank of the Murray River, after settling in and having a cuppa then it was time to get the rods out and try our luck for the Murray Cod which at the end of the day was zilch. After lunch we went walkabout and saw some good examples of how the banks are eroded and threatening more Murray Red Gums to slide into the river.
Their root system is amazing and we were able to photograph examples, also appearing are small trees looking like pine that are taking over both sides of the roads and tracks, definitely not native to the area we photographed one such bushy tree with literally thousands of bugs either hanging off or feeding off the tree.
There are other campers who have elected to go well in off the highway wherein we have elected to catch as much sun as possible for the solar panels; we find it is about nine thirty to ten am before you get enough sun to operate the panels and then you lose the sun about three thirty.
We are actually enjoying the slowness of the trip to date it has been most relaxing and we read a lot, well what can I say there has been plenty of reading.
We are still cooking our meals by the campfire though as soon as the sun disappears it gets very cool though its not cold in the van so we mostly eat inside, we have a couple of television stations available which we will watch tonight, though we have been having a cuppa at about eight pm and then off to bed to read again.
To date we have been on our own camping out, others are driving north as quickly as possible or they are going to caravan parks, we still prefer the traditional camping around the camp fire- the only way to go mate!.
Kilometers travelled 39


Camp at Nyah Forest at Wood Wood	Murray Red Gums with heavy root systems after flooding	Thousands of bugs eating life out of bush in the Nyah Forest

May 19th
Yet another crisp fine morning as I went for my walk around the forest and the Murray River though this morning I only walked for thirty minutes, back at camp we took out time to pack and was underway at nine am.
The weather was fine, no clouds or wind so the journey up the road was quite pleasant. We encountered endless paddocks that are obviously used for growing wheat and other crops, the ground was dry and other than where there was irrigation there was no greenery at all. It is obvious that with a decent wind the dust will probably descend on Melbourne as it usually does when things are this dry.
The radio is indicating that there has been no rain in this area since February and the likely hood of winter rains to start the crops is remote, without the rain the farmers are not going to plant for if they do under the current conditions then the crop will fail. Of course the weather suits us for the temperature has been around 21 to 24 degrees each day with plenty of sun which is great.
As we progressed further up the road we entered a well irrigated area that was growing grapes for the table as well as wine and Almonds, Oranges, Mandarins, Lemons and Olives. The Olive orchards were vast and there a couple of Olive Oil Refineries near the road.
Liz wanted to again purchase Oranges due to their cheapness however this is not possible as we will enter the fruit fly zone shortly and getting caught with any fruit and certain vegetables is an on the spot fine of $200. It is normal to see the orchards also in addition to their fruit selling pumpkins and other vegetables from their roadside stalls.
We finally arrived at Robinvale and parked up at rest area, then we went walkabout down the main street and looked at shops and then on to the IGA Supermarket for a few of their specials and a carton of beer and a couple of casks of wine for Liz, this should last us for awhile. The supermarket was about half a Kilometer from where we parked so we wheeled the shopping trolley all the way and then took it back when we unloaded.
We had a look around more shops and then went into a Vietnamese shop and purchased egg and rice noodles, obviously there is a large Vietnamese population in the area for the shop was well stocked with products that we didn't know about due to being in their language.
This area is quite cosmopolitan nationalities from Italian to Vietnamese as well as the indigenous people, though the town advertises as only having around two thousand residents it is obvious that the amount of shops and fuel stations that it must serve a larger outlying population.
On the way back to the Motorhome we purchased some hot chips and wrapped them in Pita Bread along with tomatoes they we nice, We then went and had a look at the old Machinery Museum.
There was everything from wooden earth rollers to old harvesting equipment and trucks and earth moving apparatus it was quite good when we finished we were on the road again.
We had to go across the old wooden bridge of about a Kilometre long it had been reduced to a one lane bridge and it was in bad repair, no doubt designed for traffic in the early nineteen hundreds.
At this time there is a new concrete bridge being built alongside this one it will take some time to finish for it is a rather large project.
So now we were back in N.S.W. on our way to Mildura in Victoria, the reason we came this way is that it is a shorter route than travelling the Victorian highway to Mildura, we came across the township of Euston and discovered that by driving around the rear of the bowls club there was plenty of camping available so at one thirty pm we have parked up for the day leaving about eighty Kilometres to go into Mildura tomorrow which then allow us to link up with Bob & Mona in Renmark South Australia on Saturday.
The rest of the day will be spent relaxing and we may go for a walk back into Euston to look about though it is only a small town with a big Bowls Club complete with pokies etc, we didn't know that they had a $5 lunch time hot meal or we would waited until we arrived instead of having chips.
Kilometers travelled 112


Beautiful Flowers around Museum fence	Old machinery at Machinery Museum Robinvale

May 20th
On awakening this morning we decided to go for another walk around Euston, the most noticeable thing about the town is that there are signs on every crossroad corner indicating " This is a Alcohol free zone form 9pm until 7am" we don't quite know the significance of this. As we wandered down to the river we noticed an old Murray River Barge which appeared to be still in good repair plus the usual house boats. Just by the Bowls club wandering across the road were a few wood ducks and they were not frightened at all by our presence. Then it was back to the Motorhome and time to hit the road towards Mildura which is only seventy nine Kilometers along the road.


Old Murray River Barge	House Boat at Euston	Wood Ducks on road at Euston

On the road and the it was a little cloudy with no wind and I expect to get good diesel consumption due to this, again we were passing endless kilometres of vineyards with the occasional Winery plus the citrus fruit orchards and almond and olive groves. When we came into the pastoral and cropping land it was obvious that they had not had rain for a long period the land was really parched.
When we finally arrived at the outskirts of Mildura we had to cross the Murray from N.S.W. back into Victoria, we parked the Motorhome up and hopped into Digger and went and had a look around the city centre to find the cheap fuel to top up our tanks before heading off to South Australia. Of course we went into Woolworth's to get a few more groceries, fair dinkum; we must have over a months supply of meat and groceries on board! Then over to Crazy Clint's and had a browse about and bought a tarp to lay down when we come across a dusty camp area to try and keep the dust out of the Motorhome.
As it is our forty second wedding anniversary today and we will be heading off this afternoon we settled for hot spuds with all the dressings for lunch and went down to the park by the lock to enjoy rather than sit in the shop, it turned out to be a good move for we were to witness an old Paddle Steamer named the "Rothbury" which was built in 1881 come into the Lock. It was interesting to watch the Lock gates close at one end and then the turbulent water come in at the other end, in a matter of minutes the Paddle Steamer that we were looking down at was now high above us. The gates opened and they were on there way again, and we went back to enjoy our hot spud.


Anniversary Hot Spud Lunch	"Rothbury" coming into Lock 11	"Rothbury" leaving Lock 11

We decided to go and have a look around the Weir and the interpretation walk which we found very interesting, especially the marker that shows the height of the floods since the 1800's the last big flood was in 1975. the interpretation boards show that prior to the various Weirs being built on the Murray in the summer months the river dried up into saline pools with no flow at all. The most noticeable thing about the Murray River is that so many towns and Cities rely on it for their water supply not to mention the amount of water taken for irrigation along its course. We shudder to think what it would be like if the Murray was to dry up.
We were to watch a Stork standing on the concrete water course waiting for fish to come over the Weir, we were to witness how quick it was in seizing the fish then waiting for the next one, on our walk around we were to see dozens of Storks and cormorants so there must be plenty of fish around


Mildura Weir with Stork	Storks everywhere	Houseboats behind Weir

We went then to have a another look at the old homestead that we saw when we came through here in 2003, it is still very interesting to see how people lived a couple of centuries ago especially how they built there houses. It was ingenious to have a roof made of bark only held down by saplings no nails.
All the furniture was period and the rooms were lined with hessian.
Then it was off to get diesel and then hit the road down to Lock 9 to camp for the night, we were passing the usual citrus groves and then vineyards, we came across Lindeman's Winery and I just couldn't believe how vast the coverage the vineyards was back from the road as far as you could see and we clocked ten kilometers before we came to the end of the grape vines. Then we were into the parched earth as far as the eye could see, stubble from last years crop still has not been ploughed into the ground and by all reports won't be until the winter rains come, some areas have not had rain of any significance for the past four years.
We had to turn off the highway and go in ten Kilometers toWeir seven of which the road was gravel, of course we unhitched Digger and Liz drove it in, What a pleasant surprise when we arrived; open ground set up for camping by the water board of N.S.W. it is a bit strange for the weir and Lock Master resides on the Victorian side of the river. Of course it must be understood that N.S.W. owns the Murray River to high tide on both sides of the river.
There were a couple of blokes putting their boats in the water and boy were they loaded down for they were going up the river for a week, I don't know about food they had plenty of cartons of grog on board. I was able to get information about the area from them and its a pity that we are only staying for one night for it is very nice here.
There is a works crew working on the Weir building a fish ladder which might make it easier for fish to travel the river or easier for Storks to catch them.
We lit the fire and I was able to get hold of a big log which burnt all night for us and then we had our Anniversary happy hour that just seemed to go on and on, I am not sure if we were both coherent at the end of the night when we went to bed. I woke up in the middle of the night to the sound of rain on the roof so had to get up and retrieve the chairs.
Kilometres travelled161


Weir& Lock 9	Back Log on Fire	Washing out by the Weir

May 21st
The rain had cleared away so after our morning shower we moved off at 10am and Liz drove Digger out to the bitumen after hooking up we were on the way to Renmark in South Australia.
The road was getting hilly in places though I had only to drop out of overdrive twice and the as usual the land was arrid and again the stubble from last years crop of wheat was still not ploughed in, so again there will be no wheat or grains planted this year due to lack of rain.
We did not see cattle or sheep at any place along the road only a Mortgagee for sale sign on one of the farms, the rest of the countryside was short spindly gum trees.
We arrived at the border at Yamba and had to go through a fruit fly inspection centre where they checked us out and approved all the vegetables that we had with the exception of onions which they confiscated, luckily we stopped up the road prior and dumped of the remainder of our apples.
Back on the road onion less we pulled up for lunch at a small rest area just before Renmark where we met a couple who were travelling up to Bourketown up in the Gulf to go fishing etc, The bloke must have been in his eighties and he enlightened us by indicating that they had been in Tasmania recently and stated that we had to be good people because we came from Tasmania.
He was to show us the short route to Port Augusta and a few free camping spots on the way for he doesn't go to caravan parks either, so we had our lunch and said our farewells and headed the last few Kilometres to Renmark.
We were not sure where Bob and Mona would be camping so we gave them a call and found that they had already arrived from Adelaide and had set up camp at Plusher's Bend, we had ended up around in Ral Ral Avenue and had to do a U-turn and head back towards Adelaide.
We finally arrived at their camp and set up just a short distance away from and then went off to gather wood for tonight, they had bought the newspapers from Tassie so we were able to catch up with what had been happening in the past couple of weeks.
We cooked our tea and given that we have had a time change we came in at 7.30pm to watch the new Dr Who series, when that was over we went off to bed to read.
Kilometres travelled 108


Murray River from Murtho Lookout	Another view from the Murtho Lookout in opposite direction	- Large River Barge Heading towards Paringa

May 22nd
On awakening this morning and going outside I was surprised that a slight fog was over the river and wetlands behind us, after breakfast I went walking for I didn't do it yesterday.
Back at camp it was time to re-adjust the clocks and watches to South Australian time and then to wash Digger and do the washing and set up the toilet tent etc for we are going to stay a few days and have a good look around Renmark and its surrounds. I baited up the line and did not even have a nibble all the time it was in the water, though I was able to show Bob photo's of those I caught earlier in our trip; it is interesting to note that the Murray River Crayfish are a wholly protected species in South Australia so the opera house nets will not be set until I get into Yabbie country.
After finally finishing the Tassie papers that Bob & Mona had saved for us we headed off into Renmark and then onto Paringa and then turned and travelled 15 kilometres to the Murtho Forest Lookout.
On the way the usual vineyards and citrus fruit farms were each side of the road and it was a good bitumen road all the way, the vista that opened up from the lookout of the Murray River, adjacent wetlands, arid stunted growth (which reminded us of the land in some parts of Northern Territory) and then the Red Gum Forests was spectacular and having such a lovely fine day with no clouds certainly helped the outlook immensely.
This mighty river just keeps turning up spectacular views and changes of scenery as it makes its way to the sea, being able to free camp along its banks is a bonus we certainly appreciate.
We left the lookout and wound our down into the Red Gum Forest and what a pleasant surprise to see that you are able to camp here along the banks of the river, it is actually a better spot than where we are at the moment though not as close to Renmark.
We worked our way back to Renmark and met up with Bob & Mona and checked out Glo Lo and actually only made two small purchases and then over to Woolworth's for bread and a hot chicken for lunch. Then over to the River Park to have lunch and we were joined by ducks, sea gulls and Pelicans, one Pelican actually attacked Mona trying to snatch the food out of her hand; so we had to piss them off.
Then we took the walk along the Riverfront and read the various interpretation signs that signified the emergence of Renmark as a modern town that it is today, it was obvious that like many towns and cities on the Murray their early development was due mainly to the river traffic of steam powered paddle boats. These boats would load up the fruit and other produce of the area and send it down river to Morgan and then on the return trip would carry groceries and other products required in the district plus passengers on their return.
The last surviving Paddle Steamer the "Industry" was built in 1911 as a work boat for the S. A. Engineering and Water Supply Dept. The vessel played a major role in keeping the river open for river traffic by removing snags and in its latter life in the construction of Lock's and Weirs. After 60 years of service it was decommissioned and following deputation to the State Government it was turned into a tourist venue and Museum.
What followed then was a public response to raise funds to put the "Industry" back into service this was achieved by a Government Loan that was finally paid off in 2004, today the "Industry" ply's the Murray in its former glory as a charter and tourist vessel complete with its original steam boiler.
Its hard to comprehend that steam paddle vessels were the lifeblood of the towns and cities, it wasn't road transport that bought about the end of the era it was trains, and the bridge over the Murray between Renmark and Paringa has the railway line running in the centre section (now a pedestrian walkway, though the original sleepers are still in place) with the road on each side of the bridge; quite unique.
We then went back to the campsite and prepared the camp oven for our roast chicken and vege's etc, at 4pm another two Tasmanian's who have been looking around South Australia since last October came down for the happy hour, which was great and we were pleased to hear that they had been to a lot of the areas we have in previous years.
After tea we sat around the fire then inside and watched Television before heading for bed to read.


Murray River Paddle Houseboat	Liz eating with Pelicans Renmark	P. S. Industry at Renmark

May 23rd
An overcast morning though quite warm, during the morning we were to experience spots of rain which made us secure the camp in case of moderate or heavy rain.
We jumped into Digger and went and had a good look around the township of Renmark, we found op-shops and second hand shops which took up a quite a few hours though we did not purchase a great deal then we went to Laundromat to do many of the heavy cloths and sheets.
Back to the supermarket to buy a few biscuits and potatoes, with fruit and vegetables we dare not purchase to many for we are yet to go through the quarantine area before we enter Western Australia.
Then onto the Angrove's Winery to sample a few different wines and whilst there we purchased a carton of Chardonnay wine and a cask of wine that they have just entered the wine cask market with.
Back to the camp on the river and hang out the cloths and even though we had spots of rain every now and again the cloths still dried during the afternoon, then it was relax for the rest of the afternoon with Liz going walkabout around the wetlands and I stopped in the camp reading.
Four pm and we went up to the other Tasmanian's camp for happy hour, it is always enjoyable to listen to other peoples travels and what they expect to do in the future, then along with Bob & Mona we went into the Renmark Hotel/Motel for an evening meal. It is a large complex taking up an entire town block and providing everything from accommodation to Pokies.
We had the seniors meal for $5.90 Liz had the Ham Parmigana with salad and I had the roast of the day which was Roast Beef with five vegetables the meal was excellent and plenty of it, of course we had a go at the Pokies and Lotto and done our money of course.
We returned to the Motorhome where I watched Television and Liz is knitting, shortly we will be off to bed and do a bit of reading.


Paddle Steamer going past camp	Weir & Lock 5 Renmark	Houseboat for hire

May 24th
The morning was cloudy though warm and rain is not expected during the day, after my walk it was time to get more wood so out came the chainsaw and as the trees have died on the edge of the wetlands Bob & I cut down a couple to use over the next couple of the days plus for bags of wood to take away with us.
As there no bites over the past two days the rod was pulled and packed away I will try my luck further down the road, we then relaxed up to lunch time reading and enjoying the sunny periods and the river views. We were to view a paddle steamer go past the camp and he blew his whistle when he saw us taking photo's.
After lunch we went into Renmark and visited the op-shops looking for netting to make up a net to go over our door in an endeavour to keep the flies that seem to come every couple of hours and annoy us plus get some drinking water.
You need to be careful where you get your drinking water, here they recycle their water back into parks and gardens a place where travelers normally go to top up their water tanks.
We found another el cheapo shop where we browsed for awhile and made minor purchases, then we drove over the river to look at Lock 5 and the Weir, is true to say that they all look the same though the area is well maintained and they encourage picnics and tourists to use the area for rest and enjoying the scenery though not to camp.
We went to the Renmano Winery and it is true to say that their wines are dearer than Angove's, it is interesting the different brand names produced by Renmano which we thought that were produced by other wineries. While Liz did a bit of tasting (again no charge) I purchased a 2 litre cask of port.
Back to camp for the happy hour and the other Tassie's from the other camp further up the river came down to join us.
This evening Liz cooked a stew in the camp oven which was very nice and then we watched a full moon come up through the trees and then shine over the Murray River.
Again it was watch television, read and then off to bed, today has been out hottest day to date with the temperature being 29 degrees and it is still hot at 7.30 pm.


The Big Orange at Berri	Sunrise over the Renmark Camp	Foggy wetlands over from Camp

May 25th
Awoke during the night to a few spots rain and without getting out of bed it was obvious that it was very windy as it was to remain all day, the morning was a little cool and we certainly won't reach the same temperature as yesterday.
After my usual walk I came back to camp and decided to read so a site was selected that was sunny and out of the wind, when hopping up to check the solar panels the chair blew into the water.
It was finally rescued and then I went and lay down on the couch to read, about 11am Bob & Mona came over and offered to take us into Berri and check out the camping spots.
On the way into Berri we checked out the big orange which is now closed and then I noticed that all the oranges that could be reached through the fence had been removed from the trees, we then went to look at camp sites and found that all camp sites that were by the river have been closed down and the camp area down further is not of a very good standard amongst the trees and it obviously blocked out the sun. It was noticeable that many had small tents and blue plastic tarps and looked like they had been there for some considerable time.
We then looked around the rodeo ground and that was not all that good so we will give Berri a miss and only go down on day trips given that it is only 18 kilometres from where we are camped, we then went into the city centre and found a Cheap as Chips shop that had the biggest floor area we have seen to date and we must have spent over an hour just looking buying very little. Then it was on to Mitre 10 to buy some screw in hooks and then we went walking around the town.
Then onto Barmera stopping at a roadside fruit and vegetable stall where Liz purchased grapes for one dollar a kilo, you could buy a bag of butternut pumpkins for ten dollars; there were eleven pumpkins in the bag, plenty of oranges for next to nothing. It is interesting to note that there were citrus orchards no matter which direction you looked and vineyards there was no end to them and we came across three Wineries though we never stopped to sample the wines.
We came across our first Bi-Lo supermarket so we stopped and found that pork was two dollars a kilo cheaper than in Renmark, we purchased a pork roast which is now in the freezer along with sausages purchased, we then drove to Monash where Liz and Mona went and checked out the chocolate factory purchasing just few items.
Back to the camp where we have decided to stop a few more days and by pass Berri though we intend to go and visit Gary when we find when he is not working, it is now happy hour so up to Ivan's camp and then back to have tea the temperature has really dropped it is going to be a cold night.
May 26th
It was a chilly morning with slight fog over the Murray River and Wetlands to the rear of our camp, even on my walk this morning it was cold though increasing walking pace solved the problem, after breakfast we were considering when to move on and whether in fact we would go to Western Australia first or straight up the centre to get in the warmer weather then come into Western Australia from the top end. We are still undecided and will make the decision when we reach Port Augusta sometime next week.
We have decided to go into Renmark this morning and have our mail directed to us here and then after picking up the mail leave next morning, this should be next Tuesday for there is certainly a lot to do in this area if you wish.
We like this campsite, the best to date, and the people who are here; we met a few more Tasmanians this morning who are heading over to Mildura and the bloke is the first we have seen wearing shorts, the nights are cold though the days are excellent with slight cloud and today the temperature reached twenty degrees.
We went into Renmark and rang Julie to have our mail forwarded on and then Gary at Berri who we have made arrangements to go over to Berri and have a counter meal with him on Saturday .
Then onto Foodland IGA and bought crumpets for 99cents and a huge cabbage for $1.59 then a newspaper and fresh drinking water (you need to be careful when looking for drinking water for the water available in sports grounds and parks is normally recycled water) and them home to the camp for happy hour again with all the Tassie people then as the evening started to cool in for tea and then watch television until 8pm and then to bed to read our books, another top day.


Swans near camp at Dawn	Digger attempts Caravan Tow	Animal Zoo Renmark

May 27th
This morning brings cloudy sky's with slight sprinkly rain for most of the day, though not enough to lay the dust around the camp.
The weather did not deter the morning walk and then it was just relax with Liz doing a bit of washing and then it was time for our shower and then read the morning away.
After lunch we went with Bob & Mona to Berri for a battery replacement under warranty and then on the way to Barmera and stopped at the vegetable place and bought eleven butternut pumpkins for Ten Dollars and then for a drive around Berri.
We drove to Lyrup and then after exploring all the nooks and crannies we decided to come across the river on the ferry to avoid going over our tracks to Berri. The ferry service is free and operates twenty four hours a day and when you disembark you find that you are only seven kilometres away from Renmark.
We stopped at a fruit market close to Renmark and purchased broccoli, capsicums and mandarins all very cheap, then we went to the local rubbish dump where we thought that they may have a tip shop.
This wasn't to be as it appeared the bloke was a bit tired and when we had a look we were surprised what was being dumped that could be recycled, it was amazing to see the recyclable waste.
Then it was back to the camp and the usual happy hour, we went down to Ivan & Leila's for an hour before it became a little cold so it was back to our camp and cooked inside tonight due to sleety rain and the coolness of the hour.
One noticeable thing in our travells around Renmark and other areas is the amount of Oranges and Mandarins that are on the trees still, on the news tonight the citrus growers indicated that they were lucky to be offered $90 Dollars per ton for their fruit and due to the cost of harvesting they are opting to leave the crop on the trees, they say this due to the import of Oranges and Orange concentrate cheaper than they can produce the fruit.
There is a fear that the crop will drop to $1 per ton thus they are leaving the fruit to rot, this is terrible to see all this waste and you daren't stop and pick up oranges of the ground that are being left to rot.
The news also eluded to the fact that due to the current El Nino effects citrus growers and farmers may be forced to walk off the land and leave all behind, Salinity is a big problem around this area and at the moment they are drilling to find the total effects.
Tonight we will watch the footy and then off to bed to read.


Lyrup River Ferry	Bob on Ferry	Map of Area & Lyrup

May 28th
Has winter finally arrived? this morning is was really cool with cloudy sky's so after my walk I started up the generator to boost the batteries given that there was no sun breaking through.
As we were running out of wood out came the chainsaw and we gathered enough wood to keep the two camps going until at least Monday, Liz did a bit of washing and then we just cleaned up around the campsite and before we knew it was time to go into Renmark.
After getting the newspaper in Renmark we headed off to Berri, first to the auto place and then to Cheap as Chips for a few purchases.
We went down to the Caravan Park and picked up Gary and then went up to the Hotel for a counter lunch, Garry let us know what he has been doing since he left the Horsham Rally and arrived in Berri.
Our meals were humungous and it is obvious that we will not need a hot meal for tea tonight, Liz played a couple of Lotto draws to no avail and before we knew it the footy was on and Collingwood were playing well and at the end of the day they won their match.
After bidding Gary farewell, who is heading over to Western Australia next week, we then went back to Renmark and bought fuel for the generator and picked up drinking water and then back to the camp, before we knew it the happy hour had arrived and Ivan & Leila came down so we spent the next couple of hours chewing the fat and talking of our future travel aspirations.
As we were not hungry we just had a few dim sims for tea and then watched the football on the television, this is the first night we have lit the heater to warm up the van so there is no doubt that we will be on the road on Tuesday after we pick up our mail and deal with what ever needs attention.
May 29th
It has to be the coldest night we have had to date; though it was to be a fine day with no clouds just warm sunshine.
After the usual morning walk it was do the usual camp chores and then as we had promised Ivan that we cut wood for him out came the chainsaw, only one problem I poured oil into the fuel tank luckily I noticed after filling and was able to empty it out before it went to the carburetor.
When I started the chainsaw, which was a little harder than normal, it really smoked for some couple of minutes and then went back to normal, Bob and I carted the long lengths to the road then cut them up, Ivan then came down and packed it into his boot. I made the mistake of calling his car a Commodore to which Leila let me know that it was in fact a Toyota Lexan ( a re badged Commodore) second blue of the day there was more to come.
Liz took Mona to Renmark in Digger to get the sunday papers and then Bob and I went for a walk around the back water and wet lands then back to work on installing more 12volt connections for Bob to be able to run his Waeco Fridge whilst travelling on the highway.
Then the rest of the day was spent reading and just soaking up the sunshine, this kind of weather topped the batteries well, we listened to the football and both Liz's and I were pleased that our teams won yesterday and our tipping between us has been very close and one of us goes one ahead then the other picks it back up the following week.
We were to go up to Ivan & Leila's camp for happy hour so I grabbed the beer and Liz's Lambrusca and glass out of the fridge and told Liz she had only to bring her chair, when we arrived at the camp I pulled my beer from the cooler bag and then Liz's.
Only one problem in my haste to pull her Lambrusca bottle out of the fridge by mistake I pulled out a bottle of Soy Sauce did I cop some stick from everyone! unbelievable!
After the sun had gone down it really was cold even though we stoked up the fire you could feel the dew starting to form on our shoulders so it was back to camp and start tea cooking if we don't get a frost tonight I would be surprised.
After tea we settled in to watch West Coast play Port Adelaide and really it was a real drubbing for Port and then watched a bit of Tellie and then off to bed to read, with an extra blanket of course.
May 30th
What a cold night; when we awoke this morning it was seven degrees inside the van, though when I set out for the daily walk the sun was breaking through warming things up nicely.
There was a little fog on the river and the wetlands behind our camp so it meant I was really rugged up when I set out, there were a few hardy campers out lighting their morning fires and I don't believe they recognised me given the clothing cover I had.
On returning to the camp it was down to the river to get water for our shower this morning though we had to use less cold and more hot water, as the sun rose it became warmer and the day being cloudless was wonderful.
We drove into Renmark and looked for a internet cafe to upload this section of the diary, when entering the cafe there was only one computer and the woman did not understand how to set up this computer so we gave it a miss.
We caught up with Bob & Mona at the laundromat and then went and had a look at Foodland and discovered chicken wings for $1.99 a kilo where normally since we have been on the mainland we have seen them for $5.99 to $6.99 per kilo. Pork roast was $2.99 a kilo so we bought both given that we are not sure we have room in the freezer.
Go Lo had large cans of Beetroot for 50cents and Peanut Butter for 50cents a jar so we stocked up with these also, then it was off to pick up the mail to discover though posted thursday it still had not arrived so hopefully it will arrive in the morning for we wish to move on.
Off to stock up with grog and purchased four X gold for $31 for thirty cans with a bonus of one long neck and 5 litre casks of Lambrusca for $9.45 so we bought two of those and received 4 cents a litre off fuel at the Mobil service station.
Talking to some locals had us go the Chaffey House where they let us hook this computer into their phone line to upload this diary and download e-mail, the link was only 28.8 kps which made it slow and it kept dropping out the connection when I was uploading Photo's so after an hour and a half we had finished and was pleasantly surprised when they informed me that I had to pay them only 50 cents, unbelievable.
Back to the camp and we started packing up and getting Digger ready for travel and then soaked up the sun and read the newspaper.
Out came the camp oven and in went the Pork and later spuds, pumpkin and steamed vegetables for tea, whilst all this was cooking Ivan & Leila plus another couple that came in yesterday come along for happy hour and so the fire was stoked up and we all enjoyed our last night together before heading off tomorrow subject to mail delivery.
Our evening roast pork plus vegetables was cooked beautifully and there is enough pork left for two more meals. Again as the sun set the night became cold so we started the gas fire in the Motorhome and settled in for the night watching Television and reading.


Pump Station Morgan	Harbormaster's House 1800's	Section of old river wharf

May 31st
Another fine morning for my walk and when returning to the camp there was Bob doing his final packing to head off towards Mildura this morning and then off to Lightening Ridge.
We had very little packing to do and we did not want to head off to early for we would have to wait for the Post Office to open, we said our farewell to both Bob & Mona and they headed off leaving us to complete our work.
Ivan came down to the camp to pick up the wood not burned and to pick up pieces of tin for his fire, when we pulled out it was with some sadness for this camp has really been enjoyable and meeting other Tasmanian's was a bonus.
Firstly we went and re-fueled both the Motorhome and Digger and then off to get the mail, luckily the mail had arrived and contained only a water bill, Kerry rang to check to see if we had received the mail and informed us that the weather in Launceston was good at the moment.
So we were back on the road heading for Morgan, we were still to pass never ending vineyards and citrus orchards; though Almond and Olive Groves were now appearing, we finally drove out of this into arid land that had stunted gum trees and where farming was taking place the force of the drought was evident with the stubble again evident from last years crop.
It would appear that they will not be growing grain this year due to lack of rain, we finally arrived at the outskirts of Morgan and noted the huge pump station complex and then noted the turn off to Burra was prior to the city centre so we unhooked Digger and drove back to the pump station and then the Bowls Club and we noticed that a track led towards the river. Unfortunately the entrance to the river camp areas have been blocked with gravel.
We found a good spot on the top looking down at the Murray River and noted the house boats that were out cruising, the intake for the Pump House were evident and we were to find out later that the water from this pump house is piped to the city of Whyalla on the Eyre Peninsula.
We then drove into Morgan Town Centre and discovered that the building's were mainly built from sandstone and were obviously from the eighteenth/nineteenth century.
We were to visit the riverside Museum and discover just how old this town is and the importance it played in the past as shipping port for paddle steamers, needless to say there is plenty of memorabilia from the towns early days. It was interesting to travel back in time and get a feel how the early pioneers stuggled to make life what it is today along the Murray River.
This town is the last town on the Murray before it takes a sudden turn south to Encounter Bay, this port in its heyday transported by river wool, grains and other goods from N.S.W. and Victoria, not only did they have river traffic there was up until 1965 six trains a day running carting produce down to the South Australian Ports and other cargo back.
As the Murray Princess was due at 2 pm we went across the river on the ferry that operates 24 hours a day to look at the Camp Grounds that we saw from our high perch above the Murray.
The river ferry is very quick and in no time at all we were on the other side driving down the sandy tracks in the conservation areas where free camping is allowed, however we recognised that the Motorhome would have trouble entering and leaving the ferry due to the angle of boarding and disembarking and though we would have tried it the sandy tracks turned us off. Digger was able to handle it ok, though we still recalled what happened at Tocumwal and we didn't want this to happen again.
When we drove around the area we noticed that a Volkswagen had bogged in the sand and I did not dare stop Digger to help for fear of us bogging, we came to the camp that we had spotted from the other side of the river and lo and behold it was another Tassie couple who after this are travelling onto Mildura.
We swapped campsites and then chewed the fat for awhile and then it was time to get back to see the Murray Princess arrive in Morgan.
We no sooner arrived back at the museum area when we noticed that several stalls had been set up so Liz and I purchased more books to read and then started taking photo's of the Murray Princess arriving at Morgan at the halfway mark of its voyage on the Murray, It only stops for a couple of hours and then turns around and returns for the remainder of its three day voyage.


Crossing River in Digger	Murray Princess arriving Morgan	Murray Princess Berthing

The Murray Princess is a truly magnificent paddle wheel boat though of recent build it is based on the old river paddle steamers, there were plenty of people on the voyage though it appeared that most if not all were over 60 years of age.
We then went and had a look at some of the old warehouses and houses built of sandstone, then set up our camp close to the Pump Station looking down upon the Murray River.
Tomorrow we leave the Murray River and head inland towards Burra an old Mining Town. We both agree that we have enjoyed our travels along the Murray River from Tocumwal and it has given us an appreciation of the magnitude of dependency on this inland waterway that the cities, towns and villages plus the dependence of the rural industry on its waters that are currently at an all time low.
What we have seen is just a small part of the river system and it takes some understanding that the Murray River is some 2530 Kilometres long and is joined by the Darling 2740 Kilometres and the Murrumbidgee 1690 Kilometres long. It is recognised that the Murray Basin and the Great Artesian Basin are two most important groundwater systems in Australia.
So, as we drive away tomorrow from this Magnificent Murray River it leaves us with many memories of both the River and those people who live along the River, without harping on it, we enjoyed it so much that it took us thirty one days to arrive at Morgan from Tocumwal which has placed us behind our time table which will mean we will need to leave visiting the bottom end of Western Australia until late July or August.
We have settled in for the night to watch Tellie and then read, we haven't bothered with an outside fire tonight and tomorrow morning we expect to go back into Morgan before heading off to Burra.
Kilometres travelled 122


Old Shipping Warehouse	Typical Morgan Housing	Very old building now Library

June section of Diary

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