A Travel Diary of Jim & Liz T9306
Forward travel planning has never been a forte of ours. We ensure the Motorhome is fully serviced and cleaned; which also includes our towed motor vehicle affectionately known as "Digger", for the travels ahead. We will decide which way we are heading for outback Australia when we arrive in Melbourne. Should we go via Queensland or South Australia? We have travelled most highways when departing Melbourne in past years so we expect to travel on roads other than the main highways as we head for the outback.
We again dropped into to see my sister, which is the only time we seem to get together and catch up with the family news, and then we headed for Devonport and the Spirit of Tasmania Ferry to sail to mainland Australia and our next adventure.
Our cabin
Jenny, Jim, Liz and John
Highway through Inglewood

We dropped in to see John and Jenny in Devonport for we were aware that they were also sailing with us tonight, then down to the fish and chip shop to buy our tea prior to boarding. The fish and chips were cooked to perfection, very nice indeed.
Then it was onto the ship at 7pm, (Spirit of Tasmania 2) up the ramp and parked the Motorhome and Digger, and then went up to our cabin. Then off to the lounge at the rear of the ship and we actually saw John and Jenny come on last for they have a fifth wheeler which is long and high so it went down onto the cargo deck.
We had a few drinks with them and later in the night, for once I didn't stay until the bar closed, I had only six pots and went off to bed. We were lucky again the trip was smooth all you could feel was the vibration of the engines.
May 11th
Out of bed at 6am and under the shower and off the ship by 7:08am, there was plenty of traffic about as we made our way to the Western Ring Road, it was amazing to see traffic banked up going into Melbourne some thirty kilometres out. I was really driving the Motorhome and I recognised that it was burning more fuel than normal, you just had to fit in with the traffic speed.
When we turned onto the Calder Highway the traffic thinned out, we came across a new B.P. Road House so we pulled in and refueled and then had a McMuffin and Cappuccino for breakfast at McDonalds which is part of the complex which also includes a Kentucky Chicken outlet.
Then back on the highway with fog clouds blocking out the sun and this was to occur all the way to Mount Macedon, once past we were under blue sky's and brilliant sunshine.
We were entering the old gold mining villages and they still retained their 1800's shop fronts, one such village was Inglewood where the highway went through the middle of town and on each side of the highway were the old shop fronts from two centuries a go, we just had to stop and take a photo, for it was if we stepped back in time.

Lunch at Charlton
Suspension Bridge over Lodden
Lodden River Charleton
We stopped for lunch at Charlton on the Lodden River, a nice area and no doubt well used during summer months, after lunch we walked over the suspension bridge and admired the scenary along the river banks and listened to the warble of the magpies, very relaxing.Then we were on the road again after deciding to put more kilometres under our belt before camping up for the night.
We were to pass hundreds of hectares, or even thousands of hectares of wheat fields with quite a few tractors at work sowing the new crop given the favourable rains they have experienced of late. We must have seen over a hundred wheat silo's and in some areas wheat from last year piled in heaps covered with canvas to keep the birds out.
I was able to point out to Liz a few of the wheat silo's I assisted in erecting in the late 1960's though they look as if they have not a had a lick of paint since those days. We were to see flocks of Corella's and Sulphur Crested Cockatoo's no doubt chasing the grain, as we are now in the Mallee area of Victoria.
We were now on flat going and the sun and blue skies were tiring us both, so we stopped at the township of Sea Lake for a spell and to top up our fuel tank with diesel, we have decided to do this while the diesel is priced only five cents a litre more than where we last pulled up for fuel near Melbourne.
Our camp at Lake Tyrell
Liz relaxing
Our camp at Lake Tyrell
We moved onto Lake Tyrell to camp for the night for it was now 2:30 pm, unfortunately they are harvesting salt from the lake and the normal camp ground is closed, however this did not deter us we drove on a little further and found a spot for the night and as we are receiving television we will watch the football tonight before retiring, the bonus is that we will not hear the traffic on the highway.
So now it was time for happy hour and we were to enjoy the quietness and the beauty of the area before going inside for our evening meal.
Kilometres travelled 396
Sunset at camp
Sunrise next morning
Welcome to Ouyen
May 12th
A relaxing night free from traffic noise, when we awakened we were greeted by a lovely sunrise. I went off for my first walk of the trip and worked my way down to the old salt workings then back for breakfast.
We left our camp at 8:30 am and drove back to the highway, we noticed a couple of caravans parked in the roadside rest area and I am sure that they would have had a noisy night with the trucks and trains going by.
Then we headed for Ouyen and along the way we were to notice many wheat silo's and wheat sown for as far as you could see, it is obvious that they had heaps of rain the way the grass and wheat is growing.
We finally arrived at Ouyen where I noticed my exhaust brakes were not working, I will see what the problem is when I park up tonight.
Ouyen is a rather large town of course servicing the farming and wheat industry and it is where the trains come through on their way to Melbourne, we didn't hang around for we can make Renmark in South Australia if we keep moving. We then took the turn towards Pinnaroo which is just over the border and we were still in wheat growing country which seems to go for hundreds and hundreds of kilometres. Though we came across signs to avoid Mallee Fowl on the roads we did not see any nor any wildlife at all with the exception of crows, jays and budgerigars plus corella's.
South Australian Border
Our camp at Plush's Bend
Paddle steamer "Industry"going past our camp

We were to come across a quarintine inspection station that was to delay us a ten minutes whilst they looked in the motorhome for fruit and vegetables, we thought we might have lost our lettuce though they let us keep that.
We pulled up at Pinnaroo for we are now in South Australia at 12:15 and had lunch and then back on the road heading for Loxton, it was again wheat until about 20 kilometres before Loxton where were to see fields of potatoes and citrus trees and grapes. Also there were plenty of wineries and cellar sales which we will drive back in digger during the week to check out, We arrived in Berri and crossed the Murray River for the first of many times to come and headed for Renmark which is only 20 kilometres away.
We drove into Plush's Bend to set up our camp on the Murray at 3:30 pm, we set up close to Mick & Anne and Bob and Mona and in no time at all we had the fire alight and the kettle on.
We were to listen to what and where they had been and then a couple of Solo woman came and joined us for happy hour that went on well into the night with a few sausages in between the stubbies then off to bed.
May 13th
Hopped out of bed at 7am feeling a bit worse for wear and lit the fire for breakfast and to heat our shower water and finished setting up the camp for we will stay here for awhile, unless of course the weather turns bad and that unfortunately is what the weather forecasts predict.
Being mothers day Liz has already taken phone calls from our children, we will be going into Renmark for lunch. We were lucky to have the paddle steamer "Industry" go past followed by a very large houseboat they were throwing back a stubbie or two.
Time for lunch and we decided to take the woman out for lunch for Mothers Day, we went into Renmark which only has the one hotel and they were booked out.
Not a problem we went over to Paringa and the hotel there was able to cook a meal for us no problem at all, the meals were huge and reasonably priced; so we do not believe that a hot tea is warranted just a sandwich. Back to Renmark and then into woollies to stock up with groceries, fill a couple of water drums and then back to camp for a snooze.
The temperature is currently 23 degrees and quite humid, they have predicted storms and rain over the next few days so that may dampen our spirits a bit.
We have set up the digital set top box and tuned in the television signal for tonight and now it is time for happy hour though we will not be drinking as much as last night.

House boat cruising by
Mothers day lunch
More modern houseboat
May 14th
Another cool evening and when arising this morning I decided it was time to start walking in ernest, so around the lake and after disturbing a flock of wood ducks I went looking for suitable trees to cut firewood for our campfire whilst here at Plush's Bend. After breakfast out came the chainsaw and then cut and carted the wood home in Digger and then cleaned up around our camp and out came the rod and reel. I baited up the line and then cast out hoping to hook up an elusive Murray Cod.
Then it was relax until after lunch and then cleaned up and then decided to go into Berri for the rest of the afternoon.
Paddle steamer in dry dock
"Industry" moored at Berri
House Boats Berri
Our first stop of course was at Cheap as Chips and we spent a good hour looking about at all the cheap items and after purchasing a few items we went onto to the Sports Store which is well stocked for every imaginable item for camping and fishing. Then went off to look at a Murray River Steam Paddle Steamer that was up on the slips for repairs.
This vessel was built in 1875 and is in very pristine condition, it appears to draw only about 2 feet of water and is flat bottomed the main structure is cast steel and the bottom is Murray River red gum. Being the off season they are no doubt enjoying a well deserved rest. Moored nearby is another paddle steamer called "Industry" that we saw coming down the Murray yesterday.
Liz at the helm
Liz relaxing in the lounge room
The Big Orange at Berri
Off to inspect the river boats and we were surprised when we were invited to inspect the many houseboats that are moored to the shoreline, these are mainly hire boats and we are sure the proprietor wanted us to inspect the boats and then maybe hire one of them. We were to inspect quite a few and were amazed at the luxury fittings when you enter the interior.
Liz was to pose at the helm and then relaxing in the lounge area, the sleeping area's are truly luxurious and it has convinced us that we need to hire one of these houseboats sometime in future years to enjoy cruising on the Murray.
It has been a full on day as we drove further down the highway and pulled into a roadside fruit stall where we purchased four butternut pumpkins for $4 being quite large they were a good buy. Then we took the tourist route and found ourselves in the major grape vineyards and it surprising how large these are.
Then we stopped of at the big Orange, which is in amongst the many orange trees, then back to camp and fired up the firepot ready to cook our rolled kangaroo marinated in herbs and sauces.
We slowly cooked the roast while we had our happy hour, we were to note many flashes of lightening in the distance which lit up the sky.We then went inside to eat and watch television for the evening.

May 15th
Awoke to the beat of very heavy rain falling on our roof, the forecast for previous days has been for thunder and lightening and plenty of rain though it did not come to fruition prior to this morning. When we went outside it was just a sheet of water up to our annexe and the ground was very muddy. luckily we had battened down and covered our wood supply last night before retiring and as the rain had ceased we were able to light our fire ok and boil the Billy and cook our breakfast.
I decided to drive around and have a look how much the area had been affected. Bad move for even though I was able to climb the hill alright it wasn't long before Digger could not handle the muddy conditions and refused to go forward or go back,bogged!! I had to come back to camp and get a four wheel drive to pull me out, once out I drove on the gravel road and had a look about and all areas had large puddles of water. The sun was breaking through and it was becoming humid when we drove into Renmark, first to Woolworths for rolls for lunch and then we drove out amongst the vineyards and citrus, olives and almond groves.
We must have driven for at least twenty kilometres and the orchards etc were still in the distance, to get an idea we would need to go up in a plane to appreciate the size of the industry, I am sure.
Then onto to Angoves to do a little sampling of their wine and spirit products and make purchases, I was to taste or should I say drink some 21 year old whisky and it was very smooth and priced at $121 a bottle. I didn't make a purchase though I had three large samples, Liz was to purchase some wine and ginger beer and then we headed for camp.
After having a late lunch Liz then did some washing and I just took it easy for the rest of the afternoon reading and trying to dry out shoes etc. The sun is still shining and it is about 24 degrees and humid so shorts and singlet are the order of the day. A few of the other campers came over for our happy hour and then we cooked roo burgers for tea and then watched television and noted the temperature was dropping rapidly.Then into our warm bed for the night.

Digger bogged
Digger dragged through this
Mona, Mick and Anne sampling the product

May 17th
We are still at Plush's Bend, rain during the early hours had us out of bed checking the awning and setting up buckets to catch the water run off, waste of time really for the rain was short lived and only made the area a little muddy.
Around 9am the sun broke through the clouds and before we knew it the ground was dry once again, Liz did a bit of washing and we both had our showers and before we knew it was 11:30 am so we loaded the water drums into Digger and headed into Renmark.
First stop was the Community Centre where we uploaded the diary up onto the net, it took over an hour and half to load up due to the line only operating at 28 bps hopelessly slow and they charged $4 even though I was only using their phone line and using my provider a bit steep I thought. However them's the breaks, then off to the bank and then into Glo Low to buy a few articles we needed. We picked the newspaper up and then headed off to the service station to fill our water drums for drinking purposes. At the moment, for showers and clothes washing we are using the water out of the Murray. Then we drove back to our camp for a late lunch as it was now 2:30 pm.
We are having soup for our evening meal the base being the water used to cook our silverside for our meal last night, checked the fishing rod and no luck and then just relaxed until the happy hour.
Again a few of the other campers came along and we had a good old chin wag and as we had a sprinkling of rain we retired at 6 pm for our soup and then watched television for the evening.
Around 7:30 we opened up the curtains and witnessed a show of lightening and thunder that was going on around us, as the news on television stated, some areas in the outback such as Broken Hill have received more rain than they have for the past seven years over the past few days. We are just getting a few intermittent showers and as we move to the outback next week we hope that the weather conditions improve.

Sun rising on the Murray
Houseboat passing camp
Houseboat heading down river
May 18th
Plenty of rain during the night, though this morning it did not appear to be as muddy as yesterday, probably now the ground is starting to absorb the water easier.
The sun arose around 7am and there was not a cloud in the sky so it made for a beautiful day, Liz once again did the washing and then took it easy reading for awhile. I went walkabout and then cast my line into the river for another go at catching a fish then took my chair down to the river bank to read my book. The waterway this morning was busy with house boats going in either directions, the two large ones appeared to have only two people on them. With the exception of one all we have seen to date have been built on pontoons and powered by twin outboards. We went into Renmark and decided to go to the Renmark Club for lunch and have a flutter on the pokies.
We arrived a bit after noon and the Club is located right on the rivers edge so you are able to have great views up and down the Murray. We were visited by three pelicans who were hoping for a few food scraps being given to them, they put on a great display in their attempts to attract attention and hopefully food.
We had the $8.50 lunch special of fish and chips and help yourself to as much salad as you wanted' plus two 2dollar vouchers to play their pokies, the food was very nice and plenty of it so we have decided just to have a bowl of soup for tea. Then we took a stroll around the shops and then into the bottle shop to stock up on grog. Around to the second hand store and had a look though nothing took our fancy so then we took the back way to our camp through the endless rows of grapes.
Happy hour has arrived and as Mick and Anne are leaving to follow their way down the Murray and then home to Tassie we fired up the firepots and had a few more of the campers come along for their farewell. As we are heading off early in the morning we will not be here when they depart so all farewells have taken place this evening along with copious amounts of cheer and laughter.
Down town Renmark
Gathered for Happy Hour
Out last fire with Mick & Anne
May 19th
We arose at 6 am for we were off the farmers market in Berri this morning, prior to us leaving we said our farewells to Mick and Anne who are now working their way back to Melbourne to catch the Ferry next Saturday. We arrived before the local crowds and were able to move around freely. We were surprised at the cheapness of the vegetables and purchased a large cabbage for $2 and other vegetables and grapes, we then went inside and had a look around and purchased very large eggs for $2 and sat down and had a cappuccino with Liz trying out some Italian fare.
Then we went down to the sports store and purchased camps australia 4 then onto cheap as chips to buy a few items and then we were on our way to Loxton.
Farmers Market Berri
Inside Market Berri
Loxton Historical Village
We were to pass many vineyards and wineries on the way to Loxton. We had intended to to go to the aircraft display that had been advertised on radio, whilst looking for the airport we came across the Loxton Historical Village and where for $2 per head we were to walk back into the past or should I say into the mid 1800's. What a wonderful display and it took us more than two hours to look at everything on display, I was to take over 60 photo's which I am unable to display all due to the space required to do so. We wandered into every building that depicted the era for that business whether it be the old bank or newspaper office, all of the old equipment used in pursuit of that business is intact and on display with a recording coming on when you enter the building explaining all. There was a lot of old machinery from trains to farm equipment and old fire engines.
We were taken with the old houses which were fitted out in period furniture and some fine cooking and other appliances, the house built of Mallee stumps and with a bark roof was wonderful, I couldn't believe my eyes when I saw how it had been constructed.
The only display we did not see was the visual display on the infamous floods of 1956 which devastated the area, the display was officially being opened whilst we were there and after the six speech's and with four more to go we decided to move on. I have to say that we both agree that this historical village is one of the best, if not the best, we have seen in all our travells over the years. A job well done especially all those volunteers dressed in period clothing and who are willing to give explanations of the village
Liz and Jim
Part of Historical Village
House built of Mallee stumps and bark roof
We then sought advise and headed to the light aircraft airport some 12 kilometres out of Loxton, the display is on both today and tomorrow. When we finally arrived we were famished and luckily they were selling sausages etc which helped fill an empty stomach.
We then walked around the display and you would have thought that some of the ultra light aircraft looked like light planes, I struck up a conversation with the owner of Jabiru ultra light and found it cost some $75,000 and that was before airport charges and other charges. Both he and his wife spoke of the freedom of travel given that this plane did 120 knots, they had travelled up from Murray Bridge for the weekend and left no doubt that they were very proud owners of this plane built for two.
Gypsy Moth
Spitfire?
A few of the planes on display
We then walked around the rest of the display and noticed that most were Jabiru's with a sprinkling of light planes, there were some old world war 1 and 2 planes, there were ariel displays and you could go for joy rides if you wished in one of the older planes which we declined.
They even had a glider display and we were to witness a glider being towed up and being released to fly the thermals, another good display and well worth seeing.
Back through Loxton and into Renmark to purchase a chicken for lunch tomorrow, we have decided to have a baked mid day meal which allow us to cool down the fire etc to start packing for our departure on Monday morning.
Back at camp and it is pretty overcast so we are hoping that it does not rain overnight, our happy hour was very restrained and we went inside to watch the St Kilda v Hawthorn match and then retire for the night.

May 20th
Plenty of cloud around this morning though there was no hint of rain, today is something special to us both; being our 44th wedding anniversary. We decided that we would cook a chicken on our firepot in the camp oven for we wish to pack today for our departure from Renmark and the Murray River tomorrow.
After our showers Liz took Digger into Renmark and visited the local laundromat to wash sheets etc and buy last minute requirements for our trip. You do not realise how long it takes to dismantle your camp especially when you are having a rest now and again. On went the chicken at 10:30 am and then we started packing poor old Digger which we tend to treat as a trailer in between uses as a car. About noon out came the chicken and wrapped in alfoil and then in went the spuds, pumpkin etc which had been partially steamed, all the while our friendly pelican was watching us from a distance as the ducks swum past. Being Sunday there is a lot of activity on the river with fishing boats going everywhere, both up and down.
We sat down for our mid day dinner which was superb and then finished the rest of the packing when the firepot had cooled down.
I had over cut the amount of fire wood required for this camp so it ended up that poor old Digger suffered the indignity of having to carry that extra weight down the road. During the afternoon we sat out and listened to the AFL football and enjoyed the gentle breeze coming along the river. The clouds had dissipated and the sun was really warm. Happy hour arrived and other campers that we had befriended came down for they knew we were leaving tomorrow. So it was a pleasant time discussing the many travels past and future and of course with a drop or two of the good stuff.
However, all good things come to an end so we said our farewell's and went inside to watch television and relax, we only had crumpets and finished off the last of our silverside for our evening meal, pretty tough this travelling and camping mate!
Our friendly Pelican & Ducks
Chicken in the camp oven
Our mid day anniversary dinner
May 21st
We awoke at 5:30 am to the patter of rain on the roof of the motorhome, out of bed and drove out onto the bank near the gravel road. We feared that if there was a downpour we would not be able to leave when we wanted, back to bed for a couple of hours and had our breakfast and then headed into Renmark to fuel up for the trip ahead.
On the road and the weather was deteriorating with intermittent showers and very windy with occasional extreme gusts of wind. As we left the area we were to drive through Citrus and Almond farms and a smattering of wheat acreage.
It was only about 125 kilometres to Morgan and in no time at all we arrived there, at this stage the wind was on the side of the Motorhome and wasn't worrying us at all.
We finally arrived at Morgan where the Murray takes a sharp turn south and heads for the sea. Even though we have been here before it is still a place worth looking at again. Morgan was the largest shipping port for the paddle steamers that used to ply the Murray with cargo, needless to say they have restored the river wharf area and have a very fascinating museum depicting the river boat era, today the population is a only a bit over 400 people.
We took time at to look at the numerous house boats that line the bank, a local informed us that the area was renowned for shacks and house boats that people from Adelaide used as weekenders. We watched the vehicular barge going across the river at regular intervals and we are a aware that there is no charge for this service, having used it before.
We had a look at the 1865 Morgue that is by the rivers edge, it was used when anyone drowned or died of other means on the Murray and the paddle steamers would drop off the dead for autopsy, in other words a central collection point for dead people.
House Boats Morgan
Morgan Vehicle Barge
1865 Morgue at Morgan
We were to admire the beautiful mosaic of the original Murray River Flag on the side of the toilet that was flown by all paddle steamers in former years and even today the majority of house boats fly this flag as they navigate the Murray. We grabbed a newspaper and said farewell to the Murray River for we will not come across it again in our travel.
We only had a further 90 kilometres to go to our next rest area just before Burra, when we turned off we were buffeted by high winds on the nose and at times I was back in third gear even when the road looked flat. We were to pass many hectares of barren land that appeared to have a lot of salt bush and other scrawny trees. Then we came out into more productive land where there was a smattering of Citrus and Almond trees and then back into wheat country. We still have not seen any cattle to date just sheep, we were to battle high winds still and it was most annoying for it is obvious that we are burning more diesel than we would normally.
We arrived at our turn off to the Red Banks conservation area, the road was gravel though in good condition. The wind was now at our rear and did the Motorhome like that, though not Digger we did not put a bra on and the front and windshield is covered in gravel sprayed up when we hit the damp spots.
We had to go off the highway for fifteen kilometres to arrive at the camp area and at the moment we are the only ones here so we set up with our door on the opposite side to the wind then had our lunch though it was a little late. Then during the afternoon due to there being no terrestrial television I set up the satellite dish for we plan to stay here for a few days and take the various walks that are available in this conservation area. Already you can see heaps of birdlife much more than we spotted coming along the highway.
We will have our usual happy hour and then see what the night brings.
Kilometres travelled 225
Murray River Flag & Pelican
Camp at Red Banks Park
Gorge cliffs on walk way
May 22nd
The wind has dropped off, though there is a slight drizzle we experienced on the roof before we hopped out of bed at 8am, it is overcast and threatening further rain. After breakfast we lit up the fire pot for hot water for our showers and to boil the billy etc.
We decided to go for a walk and we threaded our way down into the Red Bank Gorge, there has been a fair bit of erosion of the banks though the walking was pretty easy.
It is obvious there has not been a flood for awhile for the creek is absolutely dry, we were to note the large footprints left by emu's though we were not to see any.
The birdlife is prolific and we found it hard to photograph them for they were pretty skittish and took off even before you turned on the camera, we happened to capture the Major Mitchell Galahs that were frolicking in the trees; maybe it is mating season.
We wound our way back along the various tracks that are set up in the Red Bank Conservation Park, it is pretty obvious where the park gets its name when you look at the walls of the gorge. It was a pleasant walk requiring little exertion, we came back via the road and in all the walk took up an hour and a quarter. Very pleasant indeed and we arrived back at our camp in time for lunch.
Eroded cliffs in Gorge
Typical plant of Gorge
Colourful Parrots
After lunch we had a short stroll around our camp area and found colourful plants and parrots warbling away, they were both very pretty and then back to camp to pull out the camp oven and make a stew for tonight's tea.
The rest of the afternoon, up until happy hour, was spent reading and sitting by the fire for the temperature had dropped, though the rain had disappeared. We adjourned to the Motorhome for tea and cranked up the generator and watched television. At 8:30pm we decided to go to bed to read, it was chilly so we added a further blanket to the bed. We will see what the morning brings and if cold and rainy we will move on, which will be a pity for there is more of the Gorge area we want to visit.
Emu blending in
Galahs and Magpie
Bush around our camp

May 23rd
A nice sunny morning with little wind and cool, It was pleasing to see the Emu's near our camp and also the Galahs and Magpies plus the cheeky rabbits that were playing around. I lit the fire for breakfast and experienced back pain which caused considerable discomfort. After breakfast I went back to bed and spent most of the day there reading, I hopped out for lunch and found the pain was still there so back to bed and didn't hop out until the happy hour, after that we packed the gear up with Liz doing most of the lifting for we leave in the morning heading for Burra.
Then after tea we watched the State of Origin Rugby and headed for bed again for the night, though we wanted to do further walks around the conservation park during the day this did not come to fruition, maybe in future years.

1875 iron riveted bridge
Typical Cornish Building
Commercial Hotel Burra
May 24th
Isn't
it always the way when you leave an area that the weather picks up and glorious weather is the order of the day, this was the case when we left our camp at Red Banks Conservation Park. The wind was still strong as we went towards Burra, the land had obviously had a fair bit of rain for the there was greening over all paddocks which sheep were feeding on plus the mountains in the distance.
It wasn't long before we pulled off the highway and went into Burra, though we had been there some two years ago it still holds a special place in our hearts, this was due to recognition of the old gold mining days when the Cornish influence was so strong. Many of the early buildings have been turned into tourist accommodation, given that; most of the town had been declared National Trust and that includes housing as well as business premises.
We spent some two hours looking at the various buildings and parks taking many photo's and then headed out towards Petersborough, there was a stiff sou wester blowing and it did not auger well for reasonable consumption of fuel. We were climbing and the going was really tough with many gear changes required. A poor fuel consumption is assured, which will show up at the next refill of the tanks.
We went through many small villages whose claim to fame was the enormous amount of wheat sown in the fertile lands, it was obvious that they had experienced heavy rains. We were on the highway which headed for Broken Hill and the road swung in a northerly direction which made it easier going avoiding a head wind, even though we were climbing. There were many mountain ranges looking resplendent with the sun shining upon them.
Hotel Petersborough
Quilt history of Petersborough
Forward and backwards coming into Port Augusta

Before we knew it we arrived in Petersborough, a railway town that has wheat as a major contribution to their economy. Wheat of the surrounding districts and towns are transported by rail to the shipping ports also the Indian Pacific Train travels through on its way to Western Australia, we were to walk around the town for all the business' appear to be in the main street, which is also the major highway outlet.
There are many displays of the old railway days and there are many old buildings from the 1800's that depict the history of the town. We were to visit the Town Hall where we were to see a quilt depicting the history of Petersborough, then on to the butchers where we purchased two large pork chops for tea tonight. Petersborough is a bustling town with many tourists staying over to explore the many Gorges and National Parks in the countryside.
Then on the road again until we arrived at a rest area high in the ranges where we stopped for lunch, given the time of day we decided to head for Port Augusta, we wound our way through Horics Pass and the very beautiful Flinders Ranges where the beauty did not go unnoticed.Then down onto the highway with 22 kilometres to Port Augusta, we pulled into the Bird Lake rest area and found that it now exhibited a sign indicating "Camping Prohibited", so we just washed Digger who was very dirty and topped up our water tanks. We were to discover that a Motorhome park had been set up at the local football club, $5 per night or $25 per week with a maximum stay of one month, some 50 meters up the road. It is complete with a dump point subsidised by Kea and the CMCA and local council. After setting up we went and had our happy hour in the footy club and watched the young uns go through their paces on the Footie field and then off to the Motorhome and tea and then watched the Tele for the night, another good day, with an excellent happy hour in the club.
Kilometres travelled 247

Port Augusta Motorhome Park

May 25th
We awoke to the sounds of shot guns and security alarms though not both connected, we feel that someone was shooting the birdlife on the lake across the road. After breakfast we drove back over the causeway to the B P service station and paid $2 for a shower. How lovely not having to ration water and be able to stand under a nice steady stream of hot water absolutely beaut mate!
We came back to the Motorhome and set up putting out the awning and arranging so we were more comfortable then Liz washed a few small things and hung them out to dry.
We had our first trip into town and the first stop was at the tourist information centre to up load the diary to date, disaster struck they indicated that they had trouble with the line and for some reason it wiped out my server, not knowing he dial up number I had to go over to the Coles complex and ring and find the number. I reset the computer and then downloaded e-mail which appears to be from the sex industry which is really pissing me off.
We went off to Go Lo and purchased a couple of things and then back home for lunch, later in the afternoon Liz had to see a doctor for more scripts, her health being fine. then into the Big W where we purchased a screen house for later in the trip when we hit fly territory.
Then on to Woolworths for groceries purchased several cartons of beer had a look around the main street and then home, on the way back we commented how pretty the Flinders Ranges look with the afternoon sun on them, I will try to photograph them though I feel they are to far away for the camera.
We had a small happy hour at the motorhome and then over to the club for their happy hour where they were selling pots for $2.50 and the same for a glass of wine. When our meals arrived they were huge and you could help yourself to the salad bar all for $9 per meal. Then home to watch the television and see St Kilda annihilated once again

Pitchi Richi Railway Train
Power station on Spencer Gulf
Port Augusta under Flinders Ranges

May 26
After showering we decided to hop into Digger and go touring around the general area, first we drove to look at the shacks that line the western shore of the Spencer Gulf. These shacks you can see in the distance as you come down out of the Flinders Ranges towards the highway into Port Augusta. They were thirty kilometres out and it appears they are weekenders for Adelaide and local people, we were informed that the fishing around the area is very good.
We went off to have a look at the Power Station that is very large, though unfortunately you cannot get close enough to have a good look. We came back and went over the bridge to the other side of town and headed out to have a look at the Baxter Detention Centre. On arrival we only went as far as the gates and we did not see any people walking around the grounds though there were plenty of cars parked at the gate. The complex went for about two kilometres with a high inner fence and then another fence higher with razor wire some four metres away from the inner fence, it was obvious that you can drive vehicles around the whole perimeter in between the two fences.
Back on the road and we were to admire the beautiful countryside so clean and green and the Flinders Ranges absolutely magnificent, we drove until we met the highway to Western Australia and then drove back towards Port Augusta. On the way we were passed by many large semi's some with as many as three trailers they nearly blew poor old Digger off the road.
When we arrived back at Port Augusta we went up to the old water tower that they have converted to a viewing platform, it gives excellent views all around the town, up the gulf and the Flinders Ranges; we were to take many photo's. It was now lunch time and after lunch we went down to the Wharf area where they have spent many dollars turning it into a showcase area, the city's policy of a total alcohol free zone in all the city areas has worked well and cleaned up the board walk and lawns near the wharf precinct. We were to have a look at the Brigantine "One & All" though looking centuries old it was only built in 1985 and plies the gulf on tourist tours, tomorrow for a cruise from 10am to 3pm will cost $115 per head which includes a smorgasbord lunch, we gave it a miss and didn't bother booking.
We then went east and came across the Racecourse and a lot of indigenous housing on what they called the permit route, we ignored the sign and kept driving admiring the countryside once we had left the populated area, we came out on the highway some fifteen kilometres on the Adelaide side.
When we arrived home we rested up for a few hours and then went over to the club for the happy hour and decided to stay and have our dinner there, beautiful meals and very reasonably priced. It was well into the night when we left for the locals have now recognised us and refer to us as the "caravan people" and are happy to strike up a conversation, a couple of people including the manager bought us a couple of beers which we appreciated, then it was home watched a bit of Television and off to bed. It has been a very full on day and very enjoyable given that we will be leaving shortly.

Brigantine "One & All"
Port Augusta
Converted water tank lookout

May 27th
After breakfast we went off to have our showers and whilst there Liz run the linen and towels etc through the washing machine and then we went back to camp. Set up extra clothes lines and then starting packing Digger for we leave to go up through the centre towards Darwin tomorrow.
During the packing John & Jenny arrived in their 5th wheeler and joined us for the night having stopped in a caravan park last night, they informed us that it was very noisy with the trucks going all night on their way to Darwin or Western Australia. I spent an hour looking at the new 2007 Office programme's on Jenny's computer very much different to what I have and just a little more time consuming working out the different manner in which the programme's have been set out.
Before we knew it was lunch time and after we just relaxed put the awning in and finished packing, at 3pm we went over to the club for an early happy hour and say our farewells and thank them for their hospitality.
We had an extra happy hour back at the Motorhome were Michael, a life member of the club joined us along with the Manager Quinn who thanked us for our patronage and wished us well in our travels. After our happy hour or two we had our tea and then settled in to watch television and then into bed and read. A very lazy day all round and we both agree that we have enjoyed our stop over at Port Augusta.

Stuart Highway
Island Lagoon
Woomera 
May 28th
It pretty heavy with rain during the night though by the time we hopped out of bed it had ceased and the sky was just overcast, we were on the road by 8am heading towards Woolworths to fill with diesel taking on 103 litres at $1.28.9 a litre.
On the road and we took the turn out past the nature centre and we were on way up the centre of Australia on the Stuart Highway, we thought we would only drive as far as Pimba today.
The countryside was to change dramatically with saltbush plains and mountains in the distance of course with the fresh water pipe running alongside the highway towards Coober Pedy.
We were to spot lots of sheep and wild goats grazing on heaven knows what for there is no grass to be seen anywhere, we were to see our first wedge tailed eagles. What a magnificent bird with such a wide wingspan just floating on the thermal currents looking for food, its is good to see that none have been run down on the highway and we suppose this is due to the lack of road kill.
We were to come across the Island Lagoon where we stopped and took photo's, it is obvious that the water has disappeared and left a salt encrusted landscape, we were now climbing and we have driven out of the clouds and the temperature has climbed dramatically being 27 degrees at 3pm.
We arrived at Pimba and drove the 6 kilometres into Woomera to have a look around and there has not been a lot of changes made to the town since we were here some years ago. We drove down to the Bird Park which is an oasis of green grass something foreign to the rest of the landscape.
The birdlife is beautiful with many species and differing colours abounding, our old mate the Cape Barren Geese is still on display and gave us a few honks. Then we drifted up and had a look at the missile display and several old aircraft including a Canberra Bomber. It is interesting to read about the various rockets developed here and the different countries involved though they do not say much about testing nuclear bombs at Maralinga.
We walked around the town and found a lot of the shops now closed as the population has shrunk; due non rocket testing, they are doing their best to attract visitors to their town and have now completed a caravan park for that purpose and other touristy attractions.
Parrot at Bird Park
Planes and Missiles
More Missile across the road
After a good look around we moved off back to Pimba and set up for the night, being right on the highway we expect to hear a lot of noise as the road trains with their three trailers pull up the hill or stop in hers for the a couple of hours sleep. We had our usual happy hour where John & Jenny came along, we then went inside to have our tea and watch Television for awhile.
Kilometres travelled 209
Our camp at Pimba Roadhouse
Sunset at Pimba
Our camp next morning at Pimba

May 29th
Oh! Boy what a night, about 1am we experienced a raging gale with rain which was horizontal. The Motorhome just shook and rocked and the rain was being blown straight of the roof. We had battened down, so to speak, before we retired inside last night so we were well prepared only having to close the rain hatches when it hit. Then we just snuggled up in bed and were rocked off to sleep by the wind.
On awakening the rain had stopped and the wind had dropped to just strong so after breakfast and after our shower we felt it would be stupid to go out onto the highway pushing this wind. It was obvious we would just be burning diesel for very little mileage so we elected to stay, though there is a change of wind predicted for this afternoon which may help us; we will wait and see.
We had our lunch and the weather had not picked up at all with the forecast for the area not boding well for travel, so we decided to settle in and wait until the morning. Caravans were coming and going all afternoon some south with the wind behind them and others heading into the gusty conditions.
We had several rain squalls with very high wind gusts that really rocked the Motorhome, we certainly hope that we do not come across vehicles overturned by this gusty weather when we move on.
Happy hour today was an alcohol free one the first since we started our travels and even though we are only a hundred metres from the pub we will be staying at home to watch a little television before going to bed to read.

Salt Bush Plains
Entering hilly country
Timbered Plains
May 30th
What a relief to awaken and find the squally gale force winds had disappeared and the sun was shining, it didn't take long to take the decision to hit the road, packing up we said our farewells to those that we have met over the past few days at the rest area at Pimba.
On the road we were find that the going was easy for there wasn't any wind and just a little cloud though a little on the cold side, as far as you could see was stunted salt bush with sheep interspersed. What these sheep feed on is beyond belief for there is not any grass as we know it. We came across three Wedge Tailed Eagles along the way and we were to encounter cattle grazing on goodness knows what. The countryside is green and as we came across the Lakes it was good to see water in them, in previous years they have been bone dry, a local was to tell us that to date the area has had seven inches of rain this year and it is normal to have eight inches for the full year. He explained that given the rain the wildlife has gone further inland not having to rely on water from dams closer to the Highway, thus no road kill.
The going was really easy and we came across a rest area some forty kilometres from Pimba, there were a lot of Caravans and Motorhomes parked up that left Pimba yesterday morning in the gale force winds. It was interesting to see they had only travelled this far. Before we knew it we arrived at the Belyando Road House which we bypassed and kept on the highway, we were passing huge sheep or cattle stations whose frontage on the highway ran for a hundred or so kilometres before we saw signs for the next station. It was interesting to note that there are not as many road trains operating since the Adelaide to Darwin railway line was completed, it was great not to be monstered by road trains.
We arrived at the Bon Bon rest area and set up then had lunch, about an hour later John and Jenny arrived and set up near us so we chewed the fat for a few hours and then went walkabout to look at the radio tower at the top of the rise. Out came the satellite dish and it was for some reason difficult to set up though we finally succeeded. There about fifteen Caravans and Motorhomes in the rest area so we walked around and had talk to those in the CMCA. Then happy hour was upon us and even though the sun was shining it was getting colder by the hour, so much so we went inside for our evening meal at 6pm. Cooking the meal warmed the van up and tonight we may have to place another blanket on our bed.
Kilometres travelled 210
Coober Pedy from lookout
Underground Hotel Passageway
The only grass lawn in Coober Pedy
May 31st
Here we are the last day of the month and we slept in, it was 8am before we hopped out of bed and had breakfast and by the time we packed had our showers etc it was after 9:30am.
On the road and the going was easy with a slight headwind though nothing to slow us, the countryside is the same that we have travelled through over the past couple of days. How does anything exist on this type of country, we were to see several dead kangaroos and wedge tail eagles in this rather barren countryside.
We were still going through restricted access land due notices of military test area, the traffic was slow and there were few trucks plying the road.
Before we knew it we were noticed large mounds of gravel etc some 60 kilometre Adelaide side of Coober Pedy, they were not this far south when we were in this area previously.
We arrived at Coober Pedy parked up and drove Digger down through the town and noticed that the parking area for CMCA members was still available so we dropped in and re-aquainted ourselves with the owners who made us very welcome.
After setting up we had a late lunch and then walked up town and on the way we came across one of the very few houses that has grass and other plants that need plenty of water. We walked up to the lookout over the underground museum and took photo's of the countryside. All very barren and with a high wind no doubt plenty of dust from the streets and the many mining areas would cover the town.
We went into the underground hotel and again looked at the many displays and they also have some of the old machinery that was used to excavate the underground rooms and bars, all very enlightening though we did not like the thought of living underground.
What a marvellous town in that the majority of people live underground with the only indication is the appearance of many exhaust stacks on top of the ground.
We were to pass dozens of Opal shops all offering special bargains, we went into the supermarkets and had a look at the prices and they were in some cases double the price in Port Augusta, we bought meat for our evening meal.
Back to our camp and then happy hour until the sun dropped and in typical desert fashion the temperature dropped considerably so inside and had our tea watched Television and read our books for the evening.
Kilometres travelled 182
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