July

Banana's ripening
Daintree Tourist Centre
Jim in Croc's mouth

Sunday the 1st of July
We arose early, showered had breakfast and then parked Speedybago in the holding area and then we were on the road to Cape York. We decided to go down to Mosman and then across the Daintree River and through Cape Tribulation on the way the Cooktown.
The same as the other day, as we came into the rain forest coming down the mountain it was cloudy though no rain. On the way to the Daintree we were to see plenty of sugar cane and banana's with ripening bags attached.
We arrived at the Daintree village and then had a cappacino then a good look at the touristy things before crossing the river on the ferry. It cost $13 one way and they certainly pile the cars on. Once on the other side we were in world heritage area and the rainforest had turned to tropical forest and was beautiful indeed. At this stage the road was bitumen and narrow just enough to allow cars to pass. We were to come across water crossings on the road one was up to the bottom of the doors and the others were only about 300 mill deep. We were surprised to see so many people living in the area and the amount of resorts and as we climbed the Noah Ranges we were to come across banana plantations and something we were at a loss until we saw the signs indicating that we were driving through a tea plantation. They were marketing their tea as Daintree Plantation Tea. We were climbing higher up the ranges and the going was steep and in some places we were back in first gear. Down the other side and we arrived at Cape Tribulation and it was strange to come across the sea and the sand so close to the road. We pulled and a look at the white sand and the many tourists in bus's and rent a cars. With the warning of Stinger Jellyfish in the area no one was game to go for a swim.

Ferry across the Daintree
Daintree Tea Plantation
The Lions Den Hotel

Back on the road and we came to very rough gravel roads and some were driving as if there was no tomorrow and again water courses and even though the gravel extended for 30 kilometres it took us some hours before we struck bitumen again for a short period.
We finally came alongside a river whose name eludes us and we were to see prawn trawlers moored waiting to go to work. Then we were climbing the Donovan ranges and again they were steep and rough with little room for error.
We came across a few aboriginal communities which had nice housing and stores though they were not open when we stopped hoping to buy an ice cream. Then across Woodoo Creek another water crossing then onto Bloomfield and then the famous Lions Den Hotel that reminded us of the Daly River pub in Northern Territory. We had one stubby each and a good look around the memorabilia and then were on our way for the day was closing in. We came down Black Mountain and then into Cooktown. You have to go to a caravan park for they do not allow freedom camping in the area. It was nearly six before we were given out spot and then up with the tent which took no time at all it was the pegs required to hold it that took the time and unfortunately it was dark when we finished setting up. It has been a long day starting on the road about 8-30 am and arriving Cooktown around
5-30 pm.
Kilometres travelled in the Suzuki 245 kilometres.

Queen Fish Cooktown
Old Schooner Cooktown
Schooner put to sea

Monday the 2nd of July
We went off to bed last night at 9pm and believe me we did not take much rocking to go off to sleep. I awoke during the night to a blustery wind though the tent showed no movement at all. The night was humid and we had all the flaps down to allow the breeze to filter in to relieve the heat.
I don't know what it is that makes us wake up around 6 am every morning and want to get out bed and this morning was no different. We had breakfast outside and had two small kangaroos visit as well as bush turkeys all looking for a meal. We wouldn't feed them though it is obvious other campers have.
We said good morning to the happy campers around us and then cleaned up the camp, not that it was dirty. We had a cuppa with a couple from Darwin and then proceeded to do the touristy things in Cooktown. We drove to the wharf for we were told that a tall ship was to depart at 11 am and there it was only small though. We spoke with some of the crew who informed us that they are on trip back to Cairns with paying crew as well. Then onto the small wharf next to the ship and one bloke had just caught a Queen Fish and it wasn't a bad size either, he indicated that he had caught others as well as well. though a couple had been taken by Spanish Mackerel which did not leave much of the fish they attacked. So why not, I posed with the fish even though I didn't catch it.
Up to Captain Cooks lookout which is a steep pinch with the last 40 metres walk very steep from the car park. Local folklore has it that Cook climbed this mountain to look at the reefs and shoals that abound in the area which includes the Great Barrier Reef. He worked out that the only way to avoid shoals and the reef was to sail in a northerly direction. We were to watch the tall ship battle the wind and waves as it headed for Cairns and it was certainly heeling over in the blustery hot weather. We would hate to see what the temperature would be without the cooling breeze.
We took photo's of Cooktown and noted that not much has changed since the road became bitumen we thought that the developers would have moved in built resorts. So the town is pretty much the same as in 1998. We decided to go to the pub for lunch and found that they did not do counter lunches on a Monday. Though I had a couple of schooners whilst there. So back to the wharf and had fish and chips. We had Spanish Mackerel and it was very tasty though could have given us anything and we would not be any the wiser.

Cooktown from Lookout
Old Hotel Cooktown
Quarantine Beach

As the day was getting on we decided to go out to Quarantine Beach to look at the changes that may have taken place. When we arrived there were no happy campers for there are now huge No Camping signs making it clear the area is for day use only. We wondered if this had anything to do with the real estate now on the hills surrounding the beach. By the look of the area there have been a few happy campers spending time there. Back to town and the supermarket to buy oranges for the trip and meat for tonight's meal and save the meat in the Waeco for further up the Cape when we are away from civilisation. Then onto the el cheapo shop if you can call it that to buy a tarp to drape over the front of the Suzuki if we have to go through deep river crossing though we won't be doing something stupid that kills the car we will that to others. We are surprised in meeting up with three different groups of Tassie's whilst in town. We had a good chat with them and none of them are doing the Cape trip.
Next wa s the necessity of life and was to refuel for the journey ahead in the morning. This will be the first time we have pulled the camp down in our travels and it will be interesting to see if it will all pack in the same as before.
We are now back in camp at the caravan park and starting to put a few things away hopefully making it easier in the morning for we want to leave reasonably early.
During happy hour we spoke to a few that have just returned from the Cape and we were able to glean a lot of useful information which should assist us.
This is the second night without television and we do not miss it at all, we will read our books before dropping off to sleep after another good day.

Tuesday the 3rd of July
It was a very blustery night though the tent handled very well, it was strange you would hear the wind before it arrived and the trees would rustle before it arrived. We were out of bed at 5-45 showered and had our breakfast and then started to dismantle the camp. We could not remember how the tent unfolded so it took longer than it should. We were to say our farewells to the happy campers that we had met including a couple of Tasmanian's.
We headed out going towards the Battle Camp Highway. Instead of taking the turn we elected to go into the Aborigine Community of Hopevale. On arrival we were greeted in a very friendly way and invited to have a look at the Cultural Centre where all the artists do their painting and other craft work. We were given a tour of the centre and invited to have cup of tea. Then the painting were explained and then we were to see two artist doing there work the price was $700 for some of the paintings and less for the many forms of craft work. In all we spent over an hour in the village before we moved on. We then turned onto the Battle Camp Highway heading to Musgrave. The road was terrible with many corrugations and rock edges we were to strike roadwork's and they were repairs after the recent floods. In between the rough road there was beautiful scenery with many mountains and no longer rain forest just many palm and gum trees.

Hopevale Community Arts and Culture Centre

We came across many water crossings and some were deep though the Suzuki handled them well with no need to change into four wheel drive with the exception of the last one which was deep up to the bottom of the wheel arch where we went into four wheel drive low to cross. A fellow camper actually took a photo of us crossing which he has promised a copy. We were to enter Lakefield National Park and the road did not improve at all and there was plenty of traffic. We pulled into the Heritage Lakefield Homestead which is part of the national park for lunch even though it was after 1 pm. We had a look around the site admiring the old buildings and the history of the area. Then we were back on the road and it did not get any better and the traffic coming at you did not ease up at all so you drove into a wall of dust. Then we were taken back when we were doing 90 kph on the corrugated road to have a four wheel drive with a camper trailer pass us showering us with stones and plenty of dust. Five minutes later we noted them pulled up for a pit stop so I made sure that I created plenty of dust for them to enjoy.

The deepest water crossing
Heritage Lakefield Homestead
Camp at Lakefield National Park

We were passing many Billabong's which looked splendid with their flowering lilly's it was getting late in the day so we selected a campsite in the national park by a river that indicates that crocodiles are present so we set up camp well up the bank. Our background is many large termite mounds and then the Billabong very nice indeed. It is 5pm and the temperature is 26 degrees celsius though not humid, as darkness fell we noticed many mosquito's so we bought the coils out to burn and hopefully drive them away. It has been a good day and again there is not enough room to display the many fine photo's that Liz has taken whilst a passenger. We are going off to bed again tired though satisfied at what we have seen today and now we have Mo Poke Owl singing us to sleep
Kilometres travelled in the Suzuki 257

Hann Water Crossing
Sandy corrugated Road
Just another Creek

Wednesday the 4th of July
We had many different sounds last night the only worry we had was making sure it wasn't an old crocodile looking at us. It was certainly different to what we were used to. The Mosquito coil kept them pesky critters at bay though Liz wasn't impressed to find a large spider above her bed this morning it made for a quick exit. It was a beautiful morning with the sun rising over the termite mounds and trees making splendid viewing. We packed up the camp and somehow the equipment is getting bulkier due to the way we pack it, up on the roof rack and tarp and tie down and then we were on our way.
We had to go over the Haan Crossing that is well marked and the water level was only about 500 mill so it made for easy crossing. The road was corrugated in parts and very sandy in other and we were to cross 5 river crossing on the way out of Lakefield National Park. We went from tropical forest to scrub and flat land. We did not strike much traffic at all until we arrived at Musgrave Road House and there they were lined up for their turn to get fuel at the bowser. We had to pay $1.77.7 cents per litre. We parked up and as it was 11-30 am we had a coffee and a pie each and read up on the history of the area which is extensive. Then onto the Development road towards Coen. The road was terrible with many corrugations and dry water crossings with stone that was not conducive to speed. The traffic was thick both going up to the Cape and coming down with many driving as if there is no tomorrow.

Musgrave Road House
Main street of Coen
Charlie's Camp

We thought the other road was bad compared to this it was a breeze. We were to strike a fuel road train and a Cattle road train and they created a lot of dust. The temperature has reached 28 degrees though it feels higher coming through the screen at us. You could not wind windows down or have outside air coming in for the dust of vehicles was like driving into a fog. Not nice and again those four wheel drive with camper trailers think the faster you drive the easier it is to get across the corrugations. Two of these vehicles required towage due to the damage they incurred.
Then before Coen we were to come across sections of bitumen that was so nice to drive on though they only lasted for about ten kilometres and back on the dreaded gravel road. The scenery on this section was a bit boring for it was just bush and flat land with termite mounds for kilometre after kilometre.
This changed when we climbed the 10% grade up on to the Bamboo Range, strange that we saw no bamboo at all. We finally went drove into Coen for a late lunch and wouldn't you know it the local take away is closed until further notice. We had a look around the town which is a aboriginal village with a hotel and a few shops and garage for fuel. It was quite clean with the locals appearing to take pride in their area. It is the State of Origin tonight so the town is all geared up with a Queensland Rugby flag flying at the top of the pole and the NSW flag half mast so it is obvious who the locals barrack for and I do not think I would want to be in the pub if Queensland lost.
We were hot and bothered so we decided to drive out to Charlie's camp and set up for the night. It was after three and hot as we set up the tent etc we were both sweating so it was lovely when we jumped under the shower. Then happy hour with a few happy campers our evening meal and then off to bed worn out again due to the roughness of the road the concentration needed to ensure that problems did not arise.
Kilometres travelled today in the Suzuki 199

Thursday the 5th of July
A peaceful night though we could hear water dripping off the tent this morning, it was the heaviest dew that we have experienced for a long while. Needless to say we packed our gear away wet this morning complete with grass etc. We went and had a look at Charlie's house which is made from concrete a few bricks and then mostly bottles concreted in to make walls etc. A very interesting house and same with Charlie he is always spinning a yarn and its up to you sort out the facts from fiction. We said our farewells and headed out again for the Cape.
First we stopped a Coen again and had coffee before hitting the road north again for we are heading for Weipa today. We had bitumen for the first 15 kilometers and then the roughest section of gravel we have experienced to date. There was lot of traffic coming down so we were continually covered in dust and many times I applied the brakes for I couldn't see through the dust. The scenery was bush and more bush and more bush with just a few cattle along the way. We finally arrived at Archers Creek Road House where the price of fuel was $1.99.9 cents a litre for diesel or unleaded take it or leave it. We had a coffee and sausage roll each for we were not going to stop for lunch along the way.

Inside Charlie's House
Just a few corrugations
Archers Creek Road House

The road didn't improve and the traffic had little respect for others other than shower you with rocks and dust. We were lucky to find stretch's of bitumen every 40 kilometres where you could get a few kilometres behind you. We reached the turn off to Weipa and the road improved dramatically thought the same dust was encountered from vehicles. Once we reached the Mine Lease the gravel road was just like driving on bitumen. We encountered dust and smoke from a fire that really slowed us with the headlights on high. Finally we arrived at Weipa and had to stop at the haulage road of the mine for there were red lights and a barrier even though no ore trucks crossed whilst we were there.

How's the visibility
Stop lights mine road Weipa
Our front yard Weipa

We drove to the Caravan Park past Woolworths and we elected to go on power for there was to much shade for the solar panel and it was very overcast with a lot of smoke hanging around the bay. We set up and of course with the temperature at 28 degrees and humid we were both sweating. We could only get into the overflow section which gives us a view across the bay. At the moment we can only see mud flats and smoke, we have elected to stay for two days and go and do the mine tour tomorrow and tonight go off to the bowls club for a meal for neither of us feel like cooking. Well off to the showers and throw some clean clothes on for tonight.
Kilometres travelled in the Suzuki today 269

Friday 6th of July
A humid night that kept us awake and needless to say our water intake is high. I had a look around the caravan park and could not justify it being called that for all you see is tents and camper trailers. Certainly not caravans or motorhome's though we struck a motorhome on the highway yesterday.
We were due on the bus to do a tour of the mine at 8-30 am so it was clean up, breakfast and we were on our way. As is normal the bus driver was humorous in his description of everything we saw.
First we went down to the port facilities and the ships that were there were gone fully loaded no doubt. This morning the small ship that brings cargo in from Cairns was by the wharf being unloaded. We were to get a good look at the town and accommodation and the different types of houses from the original from the 1960's to the more modern of today. Because the whole town in on the mining lease owned by Rio Tinto they have a caveat at to how they are built such as style etc.
There a lot of facilities including swimming pools for you can not swim in the bay or the fresh water lakes for they are inhabited by crocodiles. The driver was to tell us that it has been reported that five dogs have gone missing last week. So the locals only use the bay for fishing.

Caravan Park?
Beautiful bay side beach
Cormorants drying out

We went onto the bridge to cross the bay and that was closed to all traffic so back to do the actual mine area. Wouldn't you know it the mine was in total lock down. When an incident occurs all mining and other works stops immediately until resolved. As it was to take about two hours to resolve we saw just the monster 190 tonne bauxite haulers pulled up so then we went down to the processing area and that was in total lock down as well. So just a few photo's and we were told they could not continue the tour and we would get a refund.

Monster Bauxite Hauler
Final Processing of Bauxite
Milling Process

Back in camp and Liz was to go to the laundromat and wash our clothes plus sheets and pillow cases. They will not take long to dry in this weather and then lunch, into Woolworths.
We decided that maybe since we have had regular showers and another today that we should give the Suzuki a good wash. We couldn't believe the amount of dust and muck that was on the car and now it looks very clean, that is until tomorrow when the dust and corrugations we face once again. We refueled at $1.70.9 a litre and back to have another shower for it is still overcast and humid. I was hoping for a good sunset to photograph tonight though will not be the case.
Happy hour with a few happy campers and have our evening meal and then hopefully get a radio station with the football on tonight.

On way to Main Development road
Telegraph Station Cafe
Bramwell Station Restaurant and Bar

Saturday the 7th of July
A humid night with many bird sounds and the kookaburras laughing at 5-30 am. Out of bed to shower and then pack our camp away. We are really into the swing of how to assemble and dismantle the tent etc. Though we seem to take just as much time to secure the load as dismantling, we were on the road at 9-30 am and the weather is a humid 25 degrees with the sky very overcast and as in previous days threatening rain. We said our farewells to Weipa and started out on bitumen out past the port loading facilities and there were two ships loading Bauxite for where we are not sure.
We found the gravel road on the mine lease to be excellent though it deteriorated after that to loose and corrugated surface. We are on our way to Bramwell Station a working cattle station for our stay tonight. We took the turn off and again the road was corrugated in places though overall it wasn't to bad. We arrived at the old Telegraph Station Cafe and decided to have a cuppa or so we thought. No tea or coffee only cold drinks out of the fridge. So we had a pie and pastie between us washed down with a fruit juice each. We had a look at the extensive photo's of the old telegraph station and the many floods they have had over the years. We spent over an hour eating and enjoying the rest from the roads. Back on the road and we were to come across many dry river crossings which were usually in steep gully's which meant we were not aware of the situation until we were right on them.
We came across the main development road to the top of the cape and then that's when we struck traffic galore spraying dust and rocks everywhere and I suppose we were doing the same. Our nice clean car was now dusted again for there were times you could not see through the dust created from vehicles especially those with camper trailers.
We finally reached Bramwell Station and went onto their camp ground priced at $10 per person no power. The Station generates their own power for their donga's and restaurant. We looked at the price of the meals and there wasn't anything lower than $27.50 so tonight we will eat our own food for a change. We may go over for the happy hour and have a few and meet the many happy campers utilising the camp grounds. It is so humid that I am going to try and have a poppy nap.
Liz collected wood and sticks and we lit a fire to sit around and cook spuds, pumpkin and onion in alfoil in the coals of the fire. They were beautiful and after our meal we sat around and other happy campers came over and joined us so we had another happy hour until we retired around 10-30 pm.
Kilometres travelled in the Suzuki today 178

Bramwell Road House
Rain on the cape track
Corrugations galore

Sunday the 8th of July
We have had this drizzly rain on and off for the last four days and this morning it was bit heavier. We had breakfast and it was obvious that we would have to pack our tent away wet. We completed this and had just tarped the load on the roof rack when it really poured down, we were then on the road and after about 10 kilometres we came across the Bramwell Roadhouse where we decided to have a coffee and a sausage roll all nice. We had a good look around the memorabilia particularly those photo's that showed what happened when people were a little adventurous on the old Telegraph Track especially at Gun Shot. We couldn't understand why they would want to write off perfectly good four wheel drives.
Back on the road and it was bitumen for about 15 kilometres then onto those dreaded corrugations the worst being on corners which tended to throw you sideways across the road. We crossed the many creek crossings that were dry at the moment and the bonus was that the rain had settled the dust and replaced it with mud. If you could call that a bonus!
There was still plenty of traffic coming down and we were surprised to see 7 caravans in a convoy on the way down from the cape.

Barge across the Jardine
Seisia Caravan Park
Shaking hands with a friend

Arrived at the Jardine river and had to go into the office and pay not only for the barge across the 20 metre wide Jardine also for the permit to be on Aboriginal land, it cost $66 return with the concession. On the barge and in less than a minute we were driving off.
The rain was still with us though only showers and it was still very overcast. We were to see many motorbikes coming down and we laughed when we saw a lone cyclist making his way down. We thought he was bit game and we wondered how he handles the corrugations.
We came across road works where they were re-conditioning the road. Unfortunately it was a bit boggy and the Suzuki is now sporting red mud everywhere. We were to come across 20 kilometres of bitumen and wasn't it a treat so smooth and no more shuddering etc. The landscape was to change from bush to tropical forest and then wide plains of a mixture of stunted trees. The traffic was getting heavier and the difference today is that you could see the road when they passed. We passed through Injinoo and then Bamaga both aboriginal towns with camping facilities. Then we arrived at Seisia in gale force winds and headed for the caravan and camping grounds, they were booked out though we were able to go into the overload area on power. We have booked in for three nights which will allow us to explore the area. I am glad that we have learnt a lot in the past week in establishing and putting up our tent for the gale force winds made it just a little harder. We had to put extra guy lines to steady the tent and we were both sweating by the time we finished. We made enquiries for the boat and bus tour to Thursday Island to be advised that it is booked out until next Friday. We are very disappointed for we were really looking forward to going to Thursday Island. I have spoken to a few happy campers and we may be able to book a fishing charter that will take us there with no fishing on the way.
Well its happy hour and the rain has stopped though the gale force winds is still with us. Tonight we have decided to go out for a meal for it is very overcast and humid

Liz & Tazzie near ship
Water crossing to tip of Aussie
Beautiful scenery at the tip

Monday the 9th of July
We awoke to more wind and it was at 6am we heard this heavy noise of steel crashing. The ship Trinity Bay had just arrived in Seisia to unload and load. I thought we would have breakfast first and then go down to the wharf area. The first I knew that it had rained during the night was when I stepped into crocks outside the door and ended up with wet feet. We had breakfast and watched the ship getting ready to unload and then headed back to camp.
Then we drove to the most northern point of Australia, we had to go back down to Bamaga and then onto this narrow road that took us through jungle and a water crossing that was quite deep. We arrived at the car park and even though we knew we had to walk about 2 kilometres we were caught unawares to see that we had to climb a steep hill with no marked track other than the well worn path.

Liz & Tazzie pointing Hobart
Jim & Liz at tip of Australia
Jim and Liz in Mangrove swamp

We had bought plenty of water with us and the sky had cleared slightly so the sun was shining through which created humid conditions with the temperature at this stage at 28 degrees.We came across many rock cairns that people had added to over the years which made them large Liz and I added a couple of rocks and then we came across an area that gave us excellent views along the coast and out to the small islands. Then Liz was to point out with Tazzie the way to hobart on the bronze disc then the climb down the hill over rocks all the way again with no defined track.
We were now standing under a sign that indicated that we were standing on the most northern tip of the Australian mainland. It seemed funny for in the background were small islands. We had our photo taken under the sign and sat down for a rest and drank plenty of water. Even though there were signs indicating crocodiles had been seen on the beach in recent days we still elected to back via the beach. The tide was well out and you could see for many kilometres along the beach.

Jungle taking over Resort
Old DC3 crashed in Jungle
Thursday Island Ferry unloading

It was a pleasant walk with all the mangroves and the islands in the distance. We arrived back at the car park and noted the board walk warnings about being unsafe. We elected to try it and found we were walking on rotting timber through what could only be described as jungle. The vines were actually taking over the boardwalk. We discovered this boardwalk actually was part of a flourishing resort that had been handed over to the indigenous people to operate. For some reason the walked away and the many buildings and accommodation is being taken over by the jungle. You can still see the solar powered hot water systems on the roof amongst the vines etc. We then drove back to Bamaga and stopped at the Crocodile Tent which is a large tent set up to sell souvenirs to the visiting tourists's. We were to purchase post cards and a fridge magnet indicating that we had made it to the most northern tip of Australia. Then onto the Bamaga Bakehaus where we had a lunch of pies and chicken sandwiches washed down with a cappacino.
Then out near the airport to look at the old DC3 that crash landed in the forties killing all passengers and crew it has been left there as a memorial to those people, again the jungle is starting to swallow up the surrounding area.
Onto to the site where their are small bombers in the jungle from world war two and it is amazing to see the aluminum decaying in the tropical climate, on and had a look at the local airport and then back to camp.
While Liz did a bit of washing I went down to the wharf and watched them load the Trinity Bay which is heading for Cairns. They also took on board 25 passengers for the trip, talking to a crew member he indicated that they had 14 wrecked four wheel drive vehicles on board and last week they had 22 wrecks back to Cairns. Most of these were from the Old Telegraph track and others driving far to fast over the corrugations. It would be true to say that we have come across a few going very fast and luckily they have not run into us.
The Thursday Island Ferry arrived and unloaded the day trippers and a few were carrying cartons of beer they had bought on the island for it is cheaper than here. A carton of xxxx gold is $60 on the Island $51. We have now been able to secure a berth to Thursday Island and Horn Island at $199 each we have decided to bite the bullet and do it for we will never come this way again. This has meant that we have had to book two more nights in the caravan park.
We went to the shop and bought two lovely pork chops for tea and I won't mention the price we are just going to enjoy them. Oh well must go for it is happy hour and it is 29 degrees and humid.

Calm day at Seisia
Trawler towing its tenders
Wreck at Loyalty Beach

Tuesday the 10th of July
A humid night that cost us both a bit of sleep though it was better than listening to rain on the tent. Reports would have it that further down south they have had heavy rain though it hasn't reached us as yet.
This morning was sunny with just a few clouds and it would be a humid day with the temperature reaching 30 degrees. Today we have declared a lay day and we will not be doing much at all. After breakfast we wandered down to the wharf area now the ship has departed and watched many fishing. They were only catching what could be described as bait fish. Though the indigenous people were out fishing the tourists by far. We were to watch the prawn and fish trawler leave the port towing two small dinghy's no doubt for fishing in close to the reef's. We wandered back by the cafe and had a cappacino back to the camp and sat under the shade of the huge tree near our camp. As the sun was hot we were joined by other happy campers and we chewed the fat for a few hours about all and sundry. Lunch time and back to the cafe and ordered fish and chips for lunch and when the other happy campers saw what we had, they to had fish and chips in the shade.
We relaxed for awhile and then decided to drive over to Bamaga to post a few cards and buy some stamps. We had to run the air conditioner for it very humid and hot to boot, we checked out the price of fuel whilst there and unleaded was $2.31.9 a liter some 5 cents a litre cheaper than Seisia.
Then into the village of Mapoon and drove around looking at the housing etc, each house has its own satellite dish and solar powered hot water. The town was very tidy and we saw our first Hibiscus tree with beautiful white flowers of course there were plenty of Grevillea's.
Then into Loyalty beach and that was a let down there is a private camping area and resort that has taken over the beach and it may look nice at high tide with water lapping on the white sand though at low tide it is a different story. It was mud and rocks galore so we drove out some what disappointed given the name of the area. We drove along further and found tracks going off in the bush towards the sea. On investigation we found that the local people have set up huts and other leaning sheds for accommodation the beach was the same so we took a picture of the small boat that is on the sand with no prop and by the look of it has been there for a considerable time. I had noticed a large termite mound on the way into the beach so going out we pulled up and Liz took a photo.
Back to camp and it has cooled down with the cloud cover now making it more comfortable. Well happy hour has arrived and a few happy campers have gathered so we will see what has been happening around the area. We are only having a bit of stew on toast later when and if it cools a little. It has been a restful day and I suppose another tomorrow.
Kilometres travelled today in the Suzuki 45

Foreshore boat ramp Seisia
Spanish Mackerel
Queenfish and Sardine

Wednesday the 11th of July
Rain at 4 am had me out of bed checking for anything touching the sides of the tent and then let the awning down so as the water would run off. The rain was very steady and there were no leaks in the tent which was great for we had not had rain this heavy before.
When the rain stopped before we arose the air was humid and would stay that way with the temperature reaching 30 degrees celsius. The wind had stopped which was a bonus and after wiping down the table we were able to cook and eat outside. Breakfast completed we cleaned up once again with Liz doing a little washing and it would dry in no time in this humid and hot day.
The wind had picked up again though the rain was staying away this morning with blue sky's. We went for a walk to the wharf and again the indigenous people were the only ones catching fish. I posed with some of their catch's such as Spanish Mackerel, Queenfish and a small fish they called a sardine which had a very large eye. We were to see large schools of Garfish swim by the wharf though nobody was able to catch them. The fellow gave us the spanish mackerel so we went back to camp and filleted straight away and into the fridge for the food must be refrigerated at all time here or it will spoil easily.
Then back over to the cafe and we had another cappacino for morning tea. We then visited some happy campers that we had befriended and had a chat until lunch time.
When we finished lunch we drove over to Bamaga to fill the Suzuki at $2.30 per litre which is 6.9. cents cheaper than Seisia a litre. We do not expect to pay this price again on the way down though it will be close. We looked at what clothes we would require for tomorrow for we have to be on the wharf at 8-15 am for our trip to Thursday and Horn Island.
Back at camp we just relaxed reading our books under the big tree in the shade, that is, until a squall came through and we ran for cover though it was over in ten minutes. The time for happy hour has arrived and then Liz went over to the cafe to buy hot chips whilst I cooked the spanish mackerel which was very nice indeed. Another good day in Paradise.

Looking north at Tiwi Islands Our transport to Thursday Island

Thursday the 12th of July
A small shower of rain overnight just enough to cause the air to become humid. We were out of bed at 6 am and had showers and then breakfast, cleaned up and it was time to go to the wharf in readiness to catch our ride to Thursday and Horn Islands. There were people fishing though they were only catching bait fish. We could see heaps of sardines shoaling beneath the wharf.
In all there were 14 passengers on the boat and we were underway at 8-30 am. Once out on the water you get a different perspective of the area and the amount of Islands that abound in this area. We were getting along at about twenty knots with two 250 hp Suzuki's pushing us along. I elected to sit out in the front of the boat with Liz seated within. We crawled past one Island where we were informed that this is the island that Captain Cook chose to survey the Strait and where he could take his ship through the now Torres Strait. As a bicentennial project they erected a cairn with a plaque to commemorate his visit to the island. We were in very shallow water and you could see the different types of coral plus their colours, the camera could not catch them for the surface was glassy and reflective to the camera.
The sea was relatively calm though when we reached open water it chopped up a bit though not enough to force us inside, we were passing island after island and at one the skipper slowed the boat and put lures out the stern. There was only on fish hooked and it was lost as it neared the boat, we were not aware of what species. We passed Horn Island and could see Thursday Island in the distance and as we neared you could see it was well populated. We were informed that the population was 3500. On arrival we were put into a small bus to do a tour of the island. We were to drive down the main street where the majority of shops are located and then up to the old fort built in the 1800's with cannons facing the strait for they feared an invasion by the Russian's

It is well maintained with three old cannons still surviving though all the underground tunnels are no longer accessible due to cave ins etc. We were to get a good view of the town down to the wharf area. The town is well laid out with the hospital taking up most of one end and the helipad is actually built over the sea. The hospitable services all of the Torres Strait Islands and they are pretty modern buildings. In fact the houses are mostly housing department and they are modern. We could see a wind farm on the hills that was established in 1995 and it produces 20% of the islands power. Of course the road around the island is only 3.5 kilometres long with many streets in between and it is amazing how many vehicles there are including taxi's. We then went around to the cemetery and we were told the history of the place and shown the old Japanese section that is now maintained by the Japanese government. There is no crematorium on the Island so all are buried and the custom is to bury the dead and only do a headstone etc some years later. The headstone done off the island is only displayed at a special service to mark the death of the person including their life history. The headstones are very elaborate.
Back into to town and tour bus dropped us off at the Torres Straight Hotel which advertised itself as the top pub on the island, of course it is the highest up the hill. We had a couple of schooners of xxxx gold and enjoyed the comfort of air conditioning and fans. Then we walked around a few shops and down to the cultural centre which was most interesting with the displays showing that the people are more of Melanesia decent rather than Aboriginal. The other thing you notice is that they are very industrious and work in all shops, cafes and supermarkets. We were to note that they pay $1.90 cents a litre for their unleaded petrol.
It is an interesting island and the locals are very friendly towards you. We then visited the Cultural Centre and it was a real eye opener to see the history of the island and their people over the ages. The exhibits were a delight to see and far to many to remember for this diary, you were not allowed to photograph the displays. we spent a good hour in there and finished with a cappacino in the cafe.
Back on the boat and we were heading for Horn Island for lunch. Horn Island has a very special relationship to Thursday Island for it has the landing strip for planes and supplies all drinking water and cargo facilities for Thursday Island plus the barges bring the garbage over once a day to buried on Horn Island. Horn Island was the only island in the area that was bombed by the Japanese during world war 2 because of its landing strip.
I went of to the toilet on the wharf to find it full of old cans and rubbish even the bowl was full of rubbish and would not operate due to this. We went to the local cafe for lunch which was part of our ticket and we enjoyed crab claws, fish balls, fish and salad with plenty of chips. The meal was huge so we wont need much for our evening meal this evening. We then walked around to the resort and the cultural museum of the Island. There were static displays of war memorabilia and the telling of the story of cultured pearls and the diving for pearls that cost so many lives before being farmed. A single pearl on simple string cost $470 which we declined. We spent another hour in this museum and the culture was again was more Melanesian that Aboriginal. It has been a full on day and well worth the delay in Seisia for two days to do the tour. We departed and again the amount of islands given that Thursday Island may be the most inhabited it is also the smallest in the area. As we crawled along the coast of Horn Island we were to see a huge crocodile sunning itself by the water, the skipper estimated it to be at least 6 metres in length and it sure had a huge girth.
The boat trip back to Seisia was choppy and it meant we had to abandon the front of the boat and come inside out of the spray that was coming over the bow, when we came into smoother waters we again put the rods out though to no avail and then we moored at 4-15 pm and walked back to camp and had a cuppa before we had a beer or two before our meal tonight.
It was well worth the cost and to date would be the best day we have had on our journey to date and would thoroughly recommend it anyone that comes to the top end of Australia to experience the area.

Crossing the Jardine
Fruit Bat Falls
Meat eating plants at falls

Friday the 13th of July
Well talk about a night! Campers snoring, Curlews screeching and loud music until the early hours of the morning, not to mention kids screaming in the early hours . We were under the shower at 6 am and then had our breakfast and broke our camp at Seisia. We said our farewells to other nearby happy campers and Seisia and we were on our way to Bamaga. We pulled up at the Bakehaus and bought fresh bread and a cappacino to go plus a sausage roll each. Now we are on our way south having enjoyed the top end immensely. We were to meet Ivan Walker and his wife last night at the restaurant who arrived yesterday and are on a tag along tour before heading south to Cairns and home in October.
What can we say the scenery had not changed since arriving nor the corrugations along the way any easier. Though it would be true to say that the road is good with only patches of terrifying bad road. We were to come across the road gang re-surfacing the road and then 20 kilometres of bitumen before we arrived at the Jardine River.
On the barge and across the river and rested up at the small store.
Back on the road and I spent my time watching intently the road for any rough patch's of corrugation that would throw us off the road. We had to give way to an ambulance that was really moving with its flashing lights and the radio was to indicate that they were on a code 1 what ever that means.
After a lot of boring road we arrived at the turn off to Fruit Bat Falls and the road in really is only a small track suitable for only one vehicle at a time. The falls were packed with visitors with many in the water and enjoying the water fall as small as they are.
I decided to go in and was surprised at the warmth of the water and I stayed in for over an hour enjoying the cooling water and its falls. Back on the road and we were to come across some very good road which was spoilt by the idiot drivers in four wheel drive vehicles who had to do a 100 kph whilst going past and showering us with dust and small rocks. We expected to find them in a ditch further down the road. We arrived at Bramwell Roadhouse at 2-30 pm and refueled at $2.05 cents a litre for unleaded and then booked into their campground for $20 un powered site. We set the tent up for the night and then decided we would have a hamburger for our evening meal and read our books for we are going into a national park in the morning.
Kilometres in the Suzuki 217

Remains of Camper Trailer

Another one bites the dust

Crossing Pascoe River

Saturday the 14th of July
Up nice and early on the way to the showers I nearly trod on a cane toad it frightened the life out of me. We were packed and on the road around 8-30 am the road was good for the first 20 kilometres and then the corrugations started in a big way. We were to see a camper trailer completely destroyed and stripped of course. It certainly wasn't there on our way up. We called into the Telegraph Station and had a soft drink for they do not sell coffee or tea. We noted the mangoes growing on a large tree though the locals called it turpentine tree for the fruit is that old that is what they taste like.
Back on the road and there was plenty of traffic again mainly going north, the usual dust and rocks applied and we were surprised to see a motor home jumping around on the corrugations. We stopped for a pit stop at the turn off into Weipa and then continued on, we had bitumen for awhile and noted that the burnt black boys were shooting again after the fire and the green shoots looked very nice. It was a bit boring for we are now on the same road in reverse and there is still plenty of bush and a few cattle.
We arrived at the turn off to Portland Roads and the road was much worse for the first thirty kilometres and we saw a Landcruiser abandoned by the side of the road with its front stoved in. We take it was abandoned for there were no number plates at all. No doubt it won't take long for this to be stripped.

Iron Range Mountain
Portland Road
Chilli Beach

We stopped for lunch at the top of the Iron Range Mountains and admired the view down through the Valley. Back on the road and we started to cross many rivers some shallow though the Pasco River was about the worst with a sandy bottom and about 100 metres wide at a depth of around 600 mills. I was a bit concerned and a happy camper who was following us said they could see the bubbles of the exhaust and the steam rising from the muffler. All good fun when you are through though going through leaves your heart pumping not wanting to get stuck half way across not with all the crocodile signs warning of there presence. We were pleased with the tropical jungle along the way and there was plenty of bamboo growing beside the road
There were many dips along the way many just plain rocky and others with deep holes hidden with water. We finally arrived at Portland Roads and noted the history of the area which included a huge military prescience in world war 2 and now the wharf and its surrounds have been taken over by tropical jungle. This is also the area that Kennedy the explorer left the bulk of his crew as he and his tracker Jacky Jacky went on to explore the cape york peninsula. It was overcast with showers now and again though still humid and 27 degrees at 4 pm.
We drove around to Chilli Beach which is in the national park and was surprised at the amount of plastic that littered the beach and that blown up in the dunes. It has all originated from the sea. The camp grounds were booked out so we had to go out about 15 kilometres and put our tent up in a quarry. We also lit a fire and wouldn't you know it the rain arrived though heavier this time and it might just ruin our plan for jaffles for tea.
That was the case so we had to have noodles in a bowl as a substitute.
Kilometres travelled in the Suzuki 274

Liz & Maureen by fire
Iron Range War Memorial
Back at Charlies Camp

Sunday the 15th of July
We were out of bed at 5 am for it had just finished raining, we had our breakfast and then broke camp. Needless to say we packed the tent away wet and we were really pissed off with the red dust and mud over the last few days. We were on the road at 8 am heading for Lockhart River which is an aborigine town. On the way we dropped into the airport which has many displays of war memorabilia for the Americans and the Australian forces used the area for their light bombers. The airstrip is still used today and the old buildings have been preserved as a monument to those soldiers of both country's.
We spent an hour or more looking at the many items on display especially the information boards. We then drove into the settlement of Lockhart River and looked around the town and then back on the road heading south.
We heard that the Queensland Variety Club Bash was coming into Portland Road so we were looking forward to seeing them. What a disappointment we thought the vehicles would have been pre 1970 though that wasn't the case they were all modern four wheel drives the whole 40 of them towing camper trailers what a let down.
We were back on the road to link up with the development road and the going seemed to be worse with the corrugations and all. We then started through the Tropical rain forest and that was just slush with rain along the way. We had to go back though the water crossings with the Pascoe River and the Wenlock River being the worst.

We finally made the main road and was surprised at the amount of traffic still heading north and they looked all clean which is more than we could say for us.The corrugations were still very bad though we were coming across stretches of bitumen in ten kilometres lots and then fifty kilometres of fair to bad gravel stretches.
We finally arrived at Archer River Roadhouse where I took on forty dollars of fuel at $1.99.9 cents a litre. I intended to fill up at Coan at $1.68.9 cents a litre only one thing wrong they were closed. We had lunch there a rest from driving on these roads.
We went out to Charlies camp and set up and no sooner had done so that the rain came tumbling down and then stopped as quickly as it started and it is making the air humid so much so that we are both sweating profusely. We both showered to get this dreaded red dust out of our skin and then happy hour arrived. As Charlie was going into the pub I went with him while Liz was preparing our evening meal. I spent an hour there getting to know the locals and then back to camp for dinner.
After dinner we had a couple of beers with other happy campers before we retired for the night.
Kilometres travelled in the Suzuki 324

Suzuki Loaded to Travel
Yet another water crossing
Hann River Roadhouse

Monday the 16th of July
At last a night without rain so this morning it was a pleasure to pack up the tent etc after breakfast. We said our farewell to Charlie and headed into Coen via the rubbish dump.
We refueled at $1.68.9 cents a litre and then went into to the local cafe and had a cappacino before getting back on the road. We were on bitumen for quite awhile and then the dreaded gravel and its corrugations commenced. There are just as many travelling to the top end as those coming down.
Again we were showered with small rocks and dust by the many four wheel drives who think doing a 100 kph will make it easier to travel over the rough roads. We were to stop at the Musgrave Road House again for lunch and a Milo for a change and just to have a spell off the rough roads. We have now arrived at the point where we arrived from Cooktown via the Gun battle highway. I gave Dad a ring from the telstra phone which is powered by solar panel for the mobile service was not available.
Back on the road and straight away into a water crossing and we were to cross another five though all very shallow. The dips were a bit treacherous having to slow down to crawl so we didn't cause any damage to the Suzuki.

Peacock Hann River Roadhouse
Emu at Hann River
Back into corrugations and dust

We were to come across road works that were in progress and we were held up for at least twenty minutes and then on our way to our next stop at Hann River Roadhouse. On arrival we were to see Guinea Fowls plus a peacock and then a Emu came into the car park and was trying to get food off the tourists.
I ordered two cold drinks and a bowl of chips costing $5 and you could count them there were so few. I said to the girl are you sure these are five dollars worth and she stated "Yes" I just could not believe it!
Back on the road and the corrugations were the worst we had experienced to date so much so that the car was sliding a little and then the bull dust commenced and it was so bad when a vehicle came at you it was just like driving in fog, terrible nearly zero visibility. We were heading for Laura and the camping grounds for the night. When we arrived at Laura we booked in and again it was humid and so we were very sweaty putting up the tent and beds and carrying all the gear into the tent.
We then had a shower and I couldn't believe the amount of red dust that came off my skin it appeared to be locked into the pores. We had a happy hour and then decided to go to the hotel for a meal. Liz had garlic prawns with a side salad and I had pork chops with onion gravy and vegetables. Both meals were very large and well prepared and cooked we had no complaints at all. At 8-30 pm Liz went back to the camp and I stayed until closing time drinking with construction workers until they closed the pub at 10-30 pm. When I staggered back to the camp I was a little inebriated and then off to bed.
Kilometres travelled in the Suzuki 241

Laura hotel and campground
Split Rock Aboriginal Art
Many, Many Banana Trees

Tuesday the 17th of July
Awoke this morning a bit hung over and every thing was in slow motion, had breakfast and then showered and then packed up the camp. Nothing was easy this morning with the tent jamming my finger to the point the finger nail went black and is still very sore. We were on the move and first we had a bit of gravel near the bridge construction works and then it was all bitumen all the way back to Mount Carbine.
Our first stop was at Split Rock Aboriginal Art centre, it required a walk to see the artwork up the side of the mountain and I walked up for about 200 metres and then stopped and then came down the hill. Liz continued on and was to see the rock art though it was now a bit weather worn and the camera did not capture the art very well. Back on the glorious bitumen and getting along at a fair pace then we came upon hectares and hectares of a Banana Plantation.
They were picking the bananas though they were not selling by the roadside so we moved on. The Great Dividing Range appears again and the climb over and down was about 10% grade meaning plenty of gear changes.
We arrived at Lakeland and went to the cafe and had another cappacino for I was so dry plus a homemade spring roll which was nice and Liz had a sausage roll. We struck up a conversation with another couple of happy campers and we were able to compare notes on the Cape York trip. We had now another 102 kilometres to cover to arrive back at the motorhome. The going was easy until we hit the mountain ranges once again, the trees were sparse and with the green of the trees and and red soil it looked very impressive for we now had clouds hanging about over the Mountains. The day was warm and I was down to shorts and singlet once again and starting to recover as we arrived at the caravan park. We reclaimed our motorhome and was lucky to set up in the same spot we had previously. We had a bit of lunch and then we started to swap gear between the Suzuki and the motorhome.
We had no beer for happy hour so along with another happy camper I went over to the hotel to buy a carton and whilst there had a couple of schooners which settled me a bit. Back to camp and we had a happy hour with a couple who had also been to the top and who we met whilst there.
Again it was compare thoughts and relive some of the good stages and talk about those dreaded corrugations
Tomorrow we will start washing and cleaning the gear . Had our evening meal and then off to the showers and then watch a bit of television before going off to bed.
Kilometres travelled in the Suzuki 163

Showing dirt inside and out
Suzuki now clean
Speedybago now cleaned inside & out

Wednesday the 18th of July
What a wonderful nights sleep we awoke to the chirping of the birds and were outside eating our breakfast at 7-45 am in shorts and singlet. Lovely blue sky's and the sun shining through the trees. Beauuutiful!
Today is clean up day in ernest and the amount of red dust in the car and outside is terrible. The Suzuki was cleaned inside and out plus was vacuumed as well compliments of the park. It took several hours and while we were doing this our washing machine was going flat out. The first load of cloths sent the water red so we had to refill with clean water for each wash. Even though we showered each day the amount of red dust coming out of the pores of our skin when sweating is amazing. The next was Speedybago Liz vacuumed the inside whilst I washed the outside and due to the water being bore water we chamoised both vehicles to get rid of the calcium buildup. I then checked the water level in the batteries and they were fine and the hydrometer readings were all in the green so the solar panels are doing there job given that we are parked in the shade of trees.
We had our lunch and then had a de-brief on the trip to Cape York and we decided that it was great and we met some good people along the way with the highlight of the trip being the ferry ride to Thursday Island and Horn Island. We were a little disappointed with Horn Island in that we only saw a museum and had a meal. The island is much larger than Thursday Island and the airport for both islands is also located on Horn. It has more war time history than Thursday due to the airstrip and the bombings that occurred. Thursday Island was never bombed. Our trip to the most Northern part of Australia was a treat though we were both surprised by the amount of Islands nearby Mainland Australia. We enjoyed the tropical rain forests and Liz was to see a casawary and the birdlife was prolific. We are both glad that we did the trip and in all the Suzuki did 2,666 kilometres from Mount Carbine Caravan Park and back again. The Suzuki never missed a beat and handled the water crossings with aplomb and the corrugations as bad as they were it handled them well and really we had a comfortable ride due to the independent sprung suspension. Given the hiding it took there are no squeaks or bangs just plenty of red dust.
We spent the rest of the day cleaning and packing things away and you could say more cleaning and packing, we believe we will not finish until we leave the park on Saturday. This is due to the bonus days we accumulated so at least we will see the football on Friday night. Our happy hour tonight with some other happy campers is not until 5 pm to allow us to tidy up and for Liz to pack away the washing. Most likely we will cook our meal in the camp kitchen so as not to heat up the motorhome. Last night I had to put on the portable fan when we went to bed and it ran all night until the battery gave out and it is now recharged in case we may have to use it again tonight. We have air conditioning though we do not like it so much. Oh well! off to get happier.

Looking at Mine from mountain
Looking south from mountain
Operating computer Mount Lewis

Thursday the 19th of July
A cool morning though it only required a t/shirt as we had our breakfast, you could see fog down in the valley which would have made it a little difficult driving this morning. We were to clean out our cupboards in the motorhome and containers in the Suzuki to see how much food we had. It was amazing to see the selection and quantity there will be no need for major purchases from super markets for awhile. We were to say farewell to a couple of happy campers that we had befriended over the past couple of weeks wished them well in their travels south and exchanged addresses for when they possibly come to Tasmania later in the year.
By now it was midday so we hopped in Suzuki along with the computer to see if we could get a signal to upload this diary and download e-mail. We drove up into the Mount Lewis National Park and what a road, it made those we had been on lately look like small change. It was up and up and the road was nothing more than a goat track with one water crossing though shallow. After 15 minutes we had arrived at a spot where we could take photo's of the Scheelite Mine at Mount Carbine and found a few bars for the computer to operate. It was so bright that it was hard to read the screen and it had to be in this certain position on the rock to get sufficient signal to operate. It was a wonderful view out across the mine site and into the mountains and again a few clouds creating shade on part of the mountain made for excellent views.

Lunch at the Roadhouse
Mr Carbine Hotel/Motel
Carbine Mine Processing

The trip down the mountain was a little easier and we stopped a couple of time to take in the views. We were nearly out of petrol so off to the roadhouse for fuel, whilst there we had an ice cream and then I noticed the menu board so I had a works burger and Liz opted for a bowl of chips. Wow! what a feed we will not need much to eat for our evening meal. There was plenty of it and cooked to perfection and being so large the burger took some getting my mouth around. The chips compared to the five dollar bowl I had at Hann River Roadhouse was like having a full two kilo weight in spuds there were heaps. The fuel was $1.55.9 per litre some 74 cents a litre cheaper than at Bamaga. When we finished eating we drove out to the mine processing site and watched the loading and processing of the Scheelite and other minerals.
Back to camp and it was hot and humid so we closed all the windows in the motorhome and switched on the air conditioner for awhile to cool things down.
We wonder where the day has gone for it is nearly 4 pm and happy hour again and see if we can get the Marngrook Football show tonight.

Friday the 20th of July
A pleasant nights sleep to be woken this morning by the bird life that abounds in this park. As we are leaving tomorrow heading south and home out came the washing machine and cloths and sheets etc were washed. During the morning the Suzuki was loaded with the Waeco etc and was given a final hose down. Before we knew it midday had arrived and a couple of happy campers came over and chewed the fat prior to us having a bite to eat for lunch.
During the afternoon we relaxed and read our books and did our final packing, I took the air cleaner out of the Suzuki and took it down to the workshop where the park owner was happy to blow the dust out for me. I have to say this is a great little caravan park they go out of their way to do the little things for you including supplying wood for the fires and the rate at $20 per night with power is excellent not to mention the excellent clean facilities. Well we had our happy hour and two more Tassie couples came in and we had a good chat and it turns out they have been up to Cape York as well. We had an excellent sunset one of the best we have seen for awhile though I didn't pick up the camera for a shot.
It was time for our evening meal and after that rather than sit out by the fire we elected to remain inside and watch the Geelong V Essendon football game before going off to bed.

Mining Ruins Mount Malloy
Wet Lands before Mareeba
Mango Plantation

Saturday the 21st of July
Out of bed at 6-30 am and under the showers then had our breakfast and packed away the last of our gear. We were to say farewell to the happy campers we had met over the last couple of days. Hooked up the Suzuki and we were on our way towards Mareeba. We were pushing into a stiff south easter wind and the going was just a little harder. The road was undulating with just a few minor hills to climb. The sky was a brilliant blue with no clouds and with the sun shining it made the country side look great. We came through Mount Malloy and noticed the old ruins from the mining era of the area.
Along the way the change to tropical bush and then the wet lands with mountains in the distance made for a pretty scene. Then before Mareeba the flat land appeared with many Banana Plantations then Mango Farms. There was plenty of advertising of the Mango wine that was available including Liqueurs. There was plenty of Sugar Cane with the harvesting still in progress so we can only assume there must be sugar refinery in the vicinity.

Sugar Cane to be harvested
Welcome to Mareeba
Highway through Mareeba

It would be true to say that the scenery looks absolutely great with the blue sky's and sunny conditions and the mountains in the distance have that green tinge on red soil. We were approaching Mareeba and the welcome signs were out. Before we knew it we were within the town boundary and the entrance is all manicured shrubbery that looks a treat and it didn't take long to see that the town is very clean and tidy. It was a little difficult to park for it was all angle parking, we turned into a side street and it was the same so we had to park and take up about five angle parking spots.
We had run out of vegetables so we went into the IGA which is a very large supermarket and were able to buy tomatoes, potatoes, cabbage, sweet potatoes, oranges and lettuce just to mention a few. The resistance became to great the Tim Tams were on special for $1.49 cents a packet so with hands trembling I picked up two packets much to the which Liz admonished me for.
There is plenty to see around the area so decided to park up at the Rocky Creek Memorial Park and unhook the Suzuki tomorrow and explore. When we arrived I couldn't believe you wouldn't see as many motorhome's, tents and caravans in a Caravan Park. We came in anyway and the first people we saw were Gordon and Jenny who we met at Cape York and the last caravan park. We parked two along from them and then came together for a chat. We received a message from John and Jenny that they would be here shortly so it will good to catch up with them.
After they set up we went over to the war memorial for which this park is about. Its uses the slogan "We are here today because of where we were yesterday" We spent a pleasant hour walking around the many memorial plaques to the many regiments that embarked from this area in world war 2. In fact the area of the park the Laundry Block of the Hospital.
Liz is listening to the Collingwood V Hawthorn football game and is not impressed the way in which Collingwood was getting well and truly beaten.
Oh well! off to have happy hour with Roger and Jenny and John and Jenny and later tonight watch the football Brisbane V Gold Coast Suns.
Kilometres travelled 96

Mareeba Heritage & Information
Aboriginal Display
Old Gramophones etc
Entrance to Coffee World
Different types of Coffee Beans
Drool! The Chocolate Factory

Sunday the 22nd of July
At 7am this morning it was cold and when going outside it looked as if it was going to rain. So back to bed and did not arise until 9 am, the weather had not changed so it was back on with the trakkies and t/shirt. We decided after breakfast to drive back into Mareeba in the Suzuki to do the tourist bit and whilst there return to the IGA to show them their overcharging.
On the way we called into a Banana Plantation and bought 8 very large banana's and 10 avacado's for $4 which we thought was a cheap price. Then onto the tourist information center that is also a heritage centre showing all the past practices of the area. The staff are very helpful and were keen to show us the static displays and some video's. There was a large timber industry along with Tobacco plantations that ceased to function in the late 1980's. The Tobacco farms just ceased to operate and it left those farmers with large debts. With the destruction of the tobacco industry the area went into Banana plantations, sugar production (now in decline) and many vegetable crops. There were also large tea and coffee plantations commence. The many displays took us over an hour to look at, even the rail ambulance still on display and this only ceased its service in 1988. They have a complete display of the area both in the past and up until now which is a credit to them.
We then drove to Coffee World which again is a museum on coffee and tea farming. The displays were wonderful and the different types of coffee beans you could purchase was immense and apparently it is due to the differing roasting process's. They sell coffee by the cup changing each hour to a different type of coffee bean. They have Coffee post cards which has a sample of coffee that you can post in the same manner as a postcard. The displays again took a fair while to go through and then we found ourselves in the Chocolate Factory and they offered free tasting's. I mean to say that temptation was just to much and at one stage I had a handful and really enjoying it. They make all styles of chocolate and you can see them making the various types and shapes the dearest in the shape of a butterfly in dark and milk chocolate is $55 and smaller sizes $9 it was really nice.

Many different planes on display at the Museum at Mareeba

Then into town and IGA and they acknowledged their mistake and they fully refunded the charged price and gave us the product for free in line with their policy of overcharging.
Then into Coles to buy my peanut butter the only supermarket that sells the one I like. I was able to buy a wombuck for $2 and then into the bottle shop to buy a carton of beer and then on the way home we pulled into the airport and the museum on old war planes. We were surprised to see they had restored old Mustangs, and other war planes even from China. At the moment they are restoring a Kitty Hawk that they found in New Guinea and to see the rotted shell and their restoration shows the patience they have. All the planes in the collection can be flown with the exception of the old DC3. Every year they have an air show and they offer rides in the old war planes I noted that the planes are of aluminum and pop riveted with the exception of the aerilons that are made of canvas. We spent some time in the interior of the DC3 and in the cockpit, in the landed position the climb from the back to the front is very steep. Another good museum and we spent considerable time there with Liz finding reference to her fathers old Australian Regiment the 2/12.
Back to the camp and the sun was now shining though we still have that cold wind and now I have changed back to shorts though the t/shirt is still on.
We are going to have another happy hour with Tassie friends and others that are in the park, then after our evening meal just read our books or watch television.

Mr Peanut Man Atherton
Motoring through rain forest
Driving into fog and rain drizzle

Monday the 23rd of July
We were awoken by a gust of wind in the early hours of this morning. When hopping out of bed we discovered the day looked terribly overcast with the likely hood of rain. We were to say our good bye's to Gordon and Jenny again and then to John and Jenny and we were on our way towards Ravenshoe. We were climbing up to the tablelands and the wind was at the front of us and blowing strongly. It wasn't long before we were driving through Peanut country and noted Mr Peanut Man advertising his wares which included peanut jam of all things. You could see the peanut crop from the road and a little further along there was another peanut outlet selling vegetables as well.
We arrived at Atherton who advertise themselves as being at the top of the tableland again the GPS attempted to take us off the highway to a so called short cut away from the centre of the town. We elected to stay on the highway that took us through the centre of town which had all the usual shops and supermarkets.
Being so cold at 11 degrees and with a strong wind and drizzle we elected to push on. It wasn't long before we came into the rain forest on each side of the highway which looked a treat and protected us from the wind. We were still climbing and when coming out of the rain forest it was straight into wind, rain and fog which lead to all lights being turned on. Quite frankly it was terrible conditions to drive in, the visibility was not great and the corners were sharp so there was a lot of gear changes for we were driving to the conditions. I was surprised by the amount of vehicles towing caravans that has no lights on at all, I felt it was dangerous and because of this I dropped the speed again.
I knew that we were getting close to our destination when we saw the sign directing us to the parking area for the wind farm. Though close to the road we could not see the wind turbines for fog and then the sign indicating 7% decline and before we knew it we were in Ravenshoe.
We went to the parking area and there were a lot of happy campers there though we found a space. As Liz need to have a blood test we walked up the street to the surgery and I stood outside whilst Liz went in. Liz was informed that there was no bulk billing and it would cost $66 for the first consultation with the doctor and then the cost of the blood test then a further consultation with the doctor for the results. We estimated that it would have cost close to $200 to see if the wolfram dosage was correct. Liz elected to have the test done further down the track as she indicated that she felt alright in herself. We went into the newsagent and while Liz was getting the paper I spoke to the woman and enquired if the doctors bulk billed, the answer was no in the first instance and then she stated that if you were a local you had to pay until you reached $100 in consultations for a year and after that all consultations were bulk billed. Again she emphasised for local residents only.
Oh No! into the bakery and bought a nice cream bun in sections with jam and then took it back to the motorhome. Over to Vinnies and engaged the ladies in a bit of light banter and Liz purchased a few books and then back to the motorhome for lunch.
It is that miserable outside that we stayed inside all afternoon reading the paper and books plus licking our wounds for the poor performance over the weekend of Collingwood and St Kilda.
There is not a lot of charge going into the batteries so we might have to start the generator.
Kilometres travelled 66

Wind Farm near Ravenshoe
Single Bitumen along Rain Forest
River Lookout into Rain Forest

Tuesday the 24th of July
Brilliant sunshine this morning and little cloud early. We had Breakfast and then decided we needed a bit of retail therapy so it was we left Ravenshoe and drove to Innisfail some ninety kilometres away.
We set the course in the GPS and were away, we took a turn onto a single bitumen road that first took us by the wind farm with all the turbines working away in the pleasant breeze. As we ventured higher we were to come into rain forest on both sides of the road and at one stage there was a long canopy of various rainforest trees that blocked out the sun and daylight. The GPS went haywire and we woke that the canopy had blocked the signal from the satellite, once out it started to perform again. We came out of the rain forest and you could see where the forest had been cleared and farms had sprung up, with the lush green grass there was a dairy industry established and when we turned off this 22 kilometre road we came across signs for the Diary Milk and Cheesery inviting you to come in and taste their products.
Once on the highway to Innisfail the road improved in width and then were into gradients of 7%, 8% and 10% both up and down. We were still in tropical rainforest and on the down hill side they had installed run off strips for trucks or any other vehicle whose brakes may have failed. By the look of the wheel marks in the sandy traps they had been used frequently. We came across farms of Sugar, Banana's and various tropical fruits. The soil was a deep red or chocolate and looked to be good for agricultural pursuits. In the final stage before Innisfail we noticed a rest area that was full of RV's and noted some friends of ours who we will drop in and see on the way home.

Welcome to Innisfail
The Mall Innisfail
Our Lunch at the Wockery

We finally reached the outskirts of Innisfail and the welcome sign from all the auxiliary clubs. Wow! traffic lights and running true to form I kept striking red lights. In no time at all we were in the town centre and then drove to the outskirts along the river for a look see. Then back to town and the K-Mart for gas bottles for the small stove. $4.95 for four cans out in the outback and up at Cape York they were up to $10 for one can! So we bought a few for our travels and a few items such as white socks for myself for Liz is sick of me wearing black socks. I am going to get these white socks very dirty very quickly. Liz does not read the diary.
We wandered down through the mall and the small shops making a few purchases and then it was time for lunch. We settled for the Wockery and Noodle Box shop where Liz had Sweet & Sour with a good serve of Flied Lice along with a bit of salad, I had The Good Soup that was loaded with noodles and all sorts of meat, fish and prawns, what a meal it took some eating I can tell you.
Bought the paper and then visited the op shop where we did not make any purchases and then a drive around the town again and then refueled and then back up the highway. The day was hot and humid and the clouds had reappeared we reached the rest area and dropped in and had a chat to Jill and Keith who we had not seen since Bann Bann Springs, they will be coming up to Ravenshoe tomorrow.

Nucifora Tea Farm
Cameron's Waterfall
Rainforest Canopy

We now climbing once again and we had decided to look at the Tea Farm and the waterfalls tourist road. First we stopped at a road side stall and bought a nice big Mango and a bag of banana's for a $1.50. We will be having banana's and custard tonight to get rid of a few of the banana's we have accumulated. Next we stopped at the Nucifora Tea Farm and admired the many acres of tea plants that had been recently harvested and then bought 100 grams of their tea for $4 we will brew it in the teapot sheila gave me.
Back on the road and we were once again climbing a 10% grade for about 6 kilometres and then we reached the Waterfall tourist road that takes in three waterfalls. When we turned in we found that only one waterfall was accessible for the recent rains and storms had destroyed the road to the other waterfalls. When we pulled in we were met by a bush turkey who no doubt is looking for food from the tourists. The walk to the waterfall is very steep and they have graduated the track to make it easier to negotiate. It was worth the effort with the waterfall over basalt rock and rainforest close by forming a pretty picture. We were to note some the trees had the strangling fig attached along with many other plants. We were a bit puffed out when we reached the car.
Back on the highway and we reached out turnoff which is the short cut back to Ravenshoe again through the rain forest, farms and wind farms before we reached the highway into Ravenshoe.
When we arrived back we noted the park had filled again and there was Roger and Jennifer who we had said our farewells to yesterday.
Oh well a late happy hour is in order and then inside as the night was getting colder and the dew forming. Watched television and then went to bed and read our books after a good day especially the water fall and the tropical rainforest and retail therapy.
Kilometres travelled in the Suzuki 215

Our lunch today Washing out with fog passing overhead

Wednesday the 25th of July
We had a sleep in this morning for we were just going to lay around for most the day without doing the touristy things. Liz decided to do a bit of washing so out came the washing machine and with an ample supply of water it did not take long to complete and hang out on improvised cloths line to dry.
We had a chat to a couple of happy campers before they left and there are now five Tasmanian caravans and motorhome's in the park. I was to borrow a ladder which allowed me to inspect the state of the solar panels. What a mess they were covered with grime and bird and bat poo, fifteen minutes later and they were clean and the fog had cleared away.
We walked up to the Chemist to get Liz's scripts filled for her ongoing medication and the paper shop and how can we resist the Bakery with all those beautiful smells emanating.
The pies looked great though we opted for bread rolls and a couple of cream and jam buns for lunch.
After lunch we just read our books in the nice sunshine with not much cloud only a bit of fog passing by, the solar panels are now working a treat and fully charged batteries are now the order of day.
Come happy hour we had Keith and Jill join us, who arrived at the park earlier in the day, and we both discussed our travels especially their travels to Tasmania, they will be returning again this year. Roger and Jennifer were out looking for property to purchase and didn't arrive back at camp until after 5pm. The night was getting cooler so we came inside after winding up the awning and putting ropes etc away. So in the morning we only have to have our showers then breakfast and then on the road again heading south to Charters Towers. A good relaxing day spent just doing that.

Kennedy Highway Now Bush
Innot Hot Springs
From Double to Single Bitumen

Thursday the 26th of July
This morning was clear blue sky's though the fog from the Tropical Rain Forest and Misty Mountain drifted over Ravenshoe keeping the temperature down. We had our showers first then breakfast then said our farewells to Roger and Jennifer plus Keith and Jill and we were on our way towards Charters Towers at 9 am. Set the course in the GPS and for a moment I thought it was taking us astray for it directed us on a road we thought would not be correct. This was not the case and before long we were on the Kennedy Highway once again headed south.
The further we moved away from the tropical rain forest the quicker the fog disappeared and we were in brilliant sunshine with no clouds at all with the temperature outside a warm 24 degrees with little breeze. We were back in bush country again and there were a lot of Brahman cattle grazing in the long paddock and did not become concerned with the traffic going both ways.
We arrived at Innot Springs and did not bother to stop to look or try out the so called healing properties of the hot spring water just a photo on the move and unfortunately did not capture the many large pools in the waterway. We arrived at Mount Garnett whose claim to fame was and still is the gold mining in the area, we stopped for a diesel top up at $1.47.9 the cheapest fuel we have had for awhile. We decided against a cappuccino and proceeded back onto the highway.
There were many road works in progress and we were held up for up to 20 minutes on three occasions before getting a green light. We arrived at the turnoff to Mount Surprise and decided not to go into the gravel pit that we used on the way up and to drive further today leaving less to cover tomorrow. Again we struck road works and were held up again for many kilometres and then we lost the enjoyment of the double lane highway back to single bitumen and of course we struck a lot of traffic heading north.
This meant both vehicles had to go off the bitumen with one wheel to allow the passing maneuver and we were concerned with the edges which were quite deep and ragged, we had to watch for the best part to come back onto the road for fear of damaging a tyre.
We opted to go into a gravel pit for the evening before pressing on tomorrow and when we found one there was not a soul to seen and by the end of the afternoon we had two more happy campers use the area and they were very close indeed for it was only a small area.
I set up the satellite dish to watch the Marngrook Football show tonight and boy did the signal take some finding for the dish was pointing at trees trying to get a signal and when we received the signal it told us that the service had expired. We hadn't set up the satellite dish for over a month. I knew this not to be true and over the next hour they started to filter down to the set though what a pain in the proverbial!
Here it is mid afternoon and very warm and it is good to be back in shorts and singlet again enjoying the warmth for in another month of less we will be in the colder part of Australia. I finished my book off and then only had a cup of tea for happy hour and a few chips for we are only having a lazy evening meal this evening before settling in to watch satellite television and then off to bed.
Kilometres travelled 223

Fog at camp this morning
Speedybago & Road Trains
Beautiful hills along highway

Friday the 27th of July
We didn't bother getting out of bed too early this morning for it was a little on the chilly side and when we did go outside there was a heavy fog surrounding us. We had our breakfast and shower and then at 9 am we were on the road. First climbing the hill and then would you believe it; there was no fog so it was only in the small valley where we camped.
Beautiful blue sky's and sunshine for the rest of the day with just a little wind on our nose with the temperature rising to a warm 25 degrees. The going was good and then we arrived at the single bitumen highway which went for some kilometres with little traffic in the first instance. We pulled up to stretch our legs and three 50 metre cattle road trains went past so we were lucky we were not on the road when they came along. We were entering an area where the highway was climbing and again we came across a sign indicating that we were on top of the Great Dividing Range and the surrounding hills with their rich red rocks and green trees looked a treat.
We finally arrived at the Green Vale Roadhouse where we bought a cappacino and a sausage roll each and enjoyed both out in the sun. We noted that the three cattle road trains and a fourth arrived so we decided to get on the road before they moved. The going was easy with the double lane highway and this would end and then we had about sixty kilometres of single bitumen with plenty of traffic and for once we did not strike any idiots spraying rocks. We had two trucks approach so we just pulled off the road and let them have the bitumen. after that it was clear sailing with two lane bitumen appearing again.
We arrived at Fletchers Creek rest area and again it was pretty full and we noted that there were still quite a few that were here when we left over a month ago. We finally found a spot though not as good as the first we had here.
After our late lunch we set up our camp including the satellite dish to watch the Hawthorn V Essendon game this evening then we went and cut a load off wood for our camp fire for we intend to stay here for a few days and then go into Charters Towers to get Liz checked out again. We had a few happy campers visit who we met up north so we had a good chin wag comparing notes etc. We were concerned that we could not get enough signal to send out out footy tipping for this week. So back in the car and drove towards Charters Towers and five kilometres up the road we received sufficient signal to send the tipping off, back to camp and it was happy hour and tonight we will knock a few back for we have refrained over the past few days. Footy tonight and then off to bed and have a sleep in the morning.
Kilometres travelled 213

Our Camp Fletchers Creek
Foot Bridge over Fletchers Creek
Burdiken River Flats

Saturday the 28th of July
It was good to light the campfire once again and have breakfast in the sunny morning weather even with a cold South Easter bearing down on us. We had bacon and eggs with toast and crumpets and they were a treat, of course washed down with a cuppa. After breakfast we continued to set up the camp with the addition of the tent and Jimmy Thunderbox for we will be here at least until next Tuesday.
Liz was to do a little hand washing while I explored Fletchers Creek. I noted there were plenty of yabby traps set along the banks though I have not heard of any results as yet. I walked to the footbridge across the creek and was surprised to see it nearly underwater, talking to a couple of happy campers they said that recently after the rain they were in fact under water. The Creek is certainly higher than when were here last and flowing very quickly one bloke told us that he had been having a daily bath in it for the last week and didn't think it was all that cold,brrr!. We noted the amount of Ibis along the bank and the cormorants were working the waterway so we can assume that there are fish of some description there.
I haven't had the fishing rods out for quite awhile and the yabby traps are yet to be used. We had a cuppa for morning tea and then went off to explore the area and get water for drinking and washing.

Burdiken River Memorial to Explorer Ludwig Leichhardt

We went for a drive in the Dalrymple National Park where you are also allowed to camp; though it appeared that it was only good enough for tents etc. The road in is typical Parks hardly formed and rough, as we drove along we came across the Burdiken River which was flowing though had plenty of sandy stretches along with rock formations. It was very scenic and we were to see a few kangaroos going down to the water to quench their thirst no doubt. We came across a memorial to Ludwig Leichhardt the famous explorer that had set up a camp on the river on his push north. We were surprised to see that he was only 31 years of age and his crew were not much older or younger. They have placed the original carved tree with the letter L and surrounded by a carved circle. They salvaged this part of the tree that had been in a severe fire and had survived.
We drove along further and you could see where four wheel drives had gone down onto the sandy edges of the river and as Liz wasn't in the mood to go and have a look and the lack of a another vehicle should we become bogged so we elected to just travel along the track following the river. We were surprised at the amount of bush fruit that was growing in the area though we could not identify what they were nor were we game to taste any of it, though it was tempting.
In all, the camping sites are well marked and placed to gain maximum scenic views over the river and well away from traffic and other happy campers to be very quiet with plenty of wood available even though the signs say no fires. All the camp sites we saw had a fireplace and plenty of ash.
I spotted a nice piece of shell wood so out came the chainsaw and up onto the roof rack and then back to camp.
We have now both started new books so we read them while listening to the Geelong V Adelaide game and of course soaked up the sun in shorts and singlet, there is not a cloud in the sky and only the sounds of crows and galahs in the beautiful surroundings.
Tonight we will watch the satellite television and the Collingwood V GWS and Carlton V Richmond, oh how we like weekend football. All our meals are now being cooked and eaten outside and only coming in to watch the football.

Pelicans soaring above our camp this morning Egret on bank of Lolworth Creek

Sunday the 29th of July
Brrrr! This morning we received a dose of what we can expect as we move south and out of Queensland. Liz lit the fire this morning as I was a little slow getting out of bed due to the cold. During the night we had to put a blanket on the bed to keep us warm. As we were having breakfast at 9-30 am we had a beautiful blue sky with Pelicans soaring above our camp which was really a beautiful sight. Whilst having breakfast we had to move into the sunshine for the awning was still dripping the dew or frost? of last night.
We are keeping the fire going for we are going to bake a chicken in the camp oven for our evening meal along with the normal baked vegetables. I split a bit of wood whilst Liz did a bit of hand washing and then we decided to go for a walk up the highway. We started off in trakkies and pullovers and it wasn't long before we had to take off the pullovers. The traffic going both ways was reasonably heavy and we had to step off the verge of the road on a couple of occasions as several caravans refused to go out into the middle of the road.
We finally arrived at Lolworth Creek and it was a treat the water was still flowing and I reckon if I put the yabby traps in I would get a result, no I cant be bothered. It looked very picturesque with the sandy banks and greens of the Gums and Paper Bark trees both in and along the banks. We can only assume by the amount of trees in the water that the creek is running higher than normal.
It was so pleasant we spent over an hour just admiring the scenery and the egrets and cormorants working the river and then we walked back to camp in the brilliant sunshine with a slight breeze again coming out of the south east.
Last night at around 8 pm whilst watching the football we heard a camper pull up beside us and this morning I noted that they were only one metre off the side of us even though there was at least ninety metres of open space on the other side of them. It continues to amaze me how people can camp so close given there is plenty of room in a given area. As we walked back from the creek we noted they had packed and were leaving and heading north, going on the time they came in last night they must travel a long way in the day.
We stoked up the fire and cooked ham and cheese jaffles for lunch and they were a treat washed down with a cuppa or two. It is very pleasant at the moment and we are in shorts and singlet again soaking up the sun. As Liz is going into Charters Towers for a check up in the morning we had our showers mid afternoon so as to get an early start in the morning. Happy hour arrived and here we are having a couple of stubbies whilst listening to our chicken sizzling away in the camp oven and we added the vegetables to bake a short time after. What an excellent meal there is nothing like camping and still enjoying the best of cuisine and just relaxing without a thought to the mounting bills awaiting us when we return home. Again we will watch television for awhile and then off to bed to read our books, though the difference is tonight we will turn on the electric blanket to warm the bed. Another good day in paradise and lets hope Liz gets a good report on her blood test tomorrow.

Sun breaking through fog
Section of Central City
Beautiful mountains surrounding Charters Towers

Monday the 30th of July
This morning wasn't as cold as yesterday though there was still a thick fog around the camps near the creek. The sun was breaking through the fog assisting in its dispersal for the wind had not yet arrived.
I refueled the generator and packed a few things away whilst in Charters Tower this morning. I took a bit of rubbish up to the bins and said hello to the young blokes that came in last night and you could blow me down with a feather duster there was Peters son and a couple of his mates who now live on the Gold Coast. They were all from Launceston originally as they said here we are in the middle of nowhere so to speak and we come across each other. They set their yabby traps last night and caught six only and lost two nets when the they became snagged and broke the rope. They were talking of diving for them though none to keen given the fog and cold weather plus the freezing conditions of the river, they are on their way back to the Gold Coast today though they will fish all the way back and arrive by next Monday.
Liz had wondered where I was so when I arrived back we drove towards Charters Towers which is only forty six kilometre away, we were about five kilometres from camp and remembered that I had forgot to pack my glasses. So back to camp and then back on the road, by now the fog had dissipated and the sun was streaming through the windowscreen it was great. When we arrived we went straight to the hospital to see if they could give Liz a blood test. Whilst Liz was there I pulled out the computer and loaded up the last three days of diary onto the web site. Liz came out and stated that had we been here at 8am they could have helped and now the earliest is on Wednesday due to tomorrow being their show day. We went to a medical clinic and they had the same answer for us. As Liz has not had a test for some time we need now to back track to Emerald for we know we can get it done there.

Reclamation of gold from tailings House fire Charters Towers

Around to Repco to get a new towing light plug for the one we have now has a broken pin and it is hit and miss if it works. Hopefully the new one will fix the problem if I rewire it properly that is. Woolworths for a bit of meat and a few groceries and the Tim Tams were on special again though on this occasion I resisted with the help of Liz, onto the el cheapo shop to buy a bag to cart our unburnt wood on the roof rack for further down the road.
We decided to go up to Tower Hill and look at the old mine workings and the old derelict buildings where they were recycling the old tailings from the gold mine and found that they were able to reclaim 37% gold using the fluoride method and with the advent of acid bleaching they closed down. We walked around the old remains of the buildings and had a good view over the town itself and though a cold breeze the sun was shining with no clouds the mountains around the town looked a real treat. In the distance we could see the tailings from the open cut gold mine that is in operation and it blended in well with the countryside.
Then we heard the fire siren and then noticed smoke that progressively worsened until it was black it was obvious it was a house fire. We drove down and went in the direction of the smoke and even though the police had cordoned off the street, from the back street you could see the house exuding black smoke from under the eaves also there was an Ambulance parked in the street so it did not look good.
Liz went into an op shop and bought a few things and then we went for a walk down the main street looking in the shops though keeping my wallet in my pocket. We were going to have chinese for lunch though this didn't occur for the restaurant is closed on Monday's. So it was off to Mc Donalds for hamburgers and chips and we gained a coke glass for our purchase. I have to say this is the best hamburger I have had from this company for many years it was fresh and easy to eat and appeared to have not much grease. We refueled the Suzuki and headed back to camp. The going was easy and when we arrived I noted that a few more caravans had set up though there was plenty of space close to us. Later in the afternoon three caravans arrived and set up and for the life of me all I could hear all afternoon was one bloke domineering the discussions no wonder several of them went walkabout.
I repacked the Suzuki and put the wood in the bag on the roof rack and in with the awning and down with the toilet tent and Jimmy Thunderbox and now in the morning we will only need to pack the satellite dish, generator and a couple of easy things and after breakfast we will be on the road towards Charters Towers again and then Emerald.
Its a beautiful afternoon and if you get out of the south easter it is quite warm so singlet and shorts are the order of the day. Though we expect a cool evening again so off to bed to read our books after having the electric blanket on for awhile to warm the bed.

Cemetery Charters Towers
50 Metre Monster Road Train
Another Welcome

Tuesday the 31st of July
A cool 2 degrees with the sun again breaking through the fog when we hopped out of bed at 6-30 am. Last night before going off to bed I refueled the generator and packed away all the satellite equipment for we wanted an early start this morning so as we could drive to at least 100 kilometres from Emerald and go there in the morning. This should give Liz sufficient time to book into the doctors for her blood test.
I awoke last night at 1 am to a vehicle close to us driving off and this morning it was the caravan that was in the group of three that came in late yesterday. We were on the road and as expected as we drove away from the creek the fog disappeared. As we approached Charters Towers we noted the well manicured grounds of the Cemetery and the manner that it is set out, quite nice actually. We filled up with diesel at Woolworths for $1.43.9 with the discount and we were on our way to Emerald.
It was easy going for the wind had not risen and the sun was streaming in through the side window warming up the motorhome lovely, on one of the narrower stretches of the highway we came across one of those 50 metre monster three trailer cattle trucks who wanted just a little more than his share of the road which I graciously gave him, OH YEAH!
We finally arrived at Belyando Crossing which is only a small roadhouse selling fuel and take away's plus caravan park. As we had been travelling for some hours in Speedybago we pulled in for a spell and as it was only 45 minutes to noon we purchased fish and chips for lunch and then sat out in the sun and enjoyed the meal and back on the road.

Spilt Cotton Bale
Wrecked Caravan
Boot Tree Clermont

We are now entering the central highlands so the it was hilly country though Speedybago handled them with ease and again not having to change gears at all. There was plenty of bush and cattle along the road and in the paddocks mainly around the water holes. We were to see five dead pigs that had been run over and the only birds trying to eat the carcase was crows.
We were to see plenty of cotton alongside the highway and so it must be there is cotton farming somewhere in the vicinity, we came across a bale of cotton on the side of the road split open so we can assume that it must have fell from a truck, we came across more roadwork's and then the wrecked caravan that we seen on the way up. It sure is a mess and it was obvious that it had been well picked over.
We could see hectare after hectare of Sorghum and Lucerne and then we came across more flat country with plenty of wheat crops growing. In the distance we could see the head of the Coal Draglines and the overburden heaps and the then the signs that we were near the Blair Athol coal mine and again that long conveyer belt which no doubt is carrying coal.
We finally arrived at Clermont and went to the BP service station and had a free shower and then moved along near the pig and kangaroo chillers where we will stop for the night before doing the last 110 kilometres into Emerald in the morning.
Kilometres travelled 427



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