Untitled Document

Monday the 1st
Brrrrrrr! another cold one the sky still cloudy and no sun, packed and underway from Red Banks Conservation Park at 9am and into Burra for diesel and water. We paid $1.19.5 a litre for diesel and filled all our empty drums with water for further up the road it is going to be hard getting drinking water. Leaving Burra we ambled along the wide open spaces between the hills and into very rich sheep grazing country as well as wheat paddocks being harrowed and seed planted. It wasn't long before we were to see over 30 wind generators and many more being built. They look spectacular sitting up on the ridges amongst the green paddocks and were just only turning over, no doubt generation power.
It didn't take long at all to arrive at Peterborough, the town was most famous as a rail deport and rail transfer and repair centre for the many lines that were in the area. Today there is only one rail line to Broken Hill used and all repairs etc are carried elsewhere, the tourist information centre is located in an old railway carriage in the centre of town and very helpful with information on the area and shopping centre.
Then around to the Post Office for some cash and pick up the mail and then walked around looking at the various attractions in the town. Onto the the second hand shop then Foodland and stocked up with bread, hopefully as we move north it will get a little warmer and allow us to cook our own bread etc. Off to the School where the library is located and used the wireless connection to upload this diary, given that I am a member of the South Australian library system it was cost free.
Then we moved on towards to our rest area for the night 15 kilometers from Peterborough, the countryside is still undulating with green pastures so they must be getting plenty of rain.
We just pulled up and left everything aboard and lit a fire with wood we collected around the area and then sat around it having a small happy hour for the wind is still cold and with the darkness falling it was getting colder so we went inside for our evening meal and watched tellie for a while before going off to bed. Bring on the warm weather!
Kilometers travelled 134


Wind generators in the distance	Welcome to Peterborough

Tuesday the 2nd
We were awakened a few times during the night by road transport a sound that we have not been used to, other than that the weather was warmer and would stay that way even though we would be faced once again with clouds overhead. We headed off and the countryside was still very green and planted down for wheat and there were plenty of sheep to be seen. Out in the distance we could only speculate that the mountains that we were seeing were the Flinders Ranges.
A couple of hours later we had arrived at Orroroo and had a look around the town centre purchased our evening meal and paper and we were on our way again, I had set the GPS for Marree and at one stage it wanted to take us off the bitumen and onto a gravel side road, I can only assume that was the shortest route, we decided to stop on the bitumen.
The land around us was still undulating with plenty of grass for the sheep that were plentiful and and again you could still the mountain ranges in the distance.


Welcome to Orroroo	Heading towards Flinders Ranges

When we left Orroroo the land was flatter and we wound our way along the highway through several small communities and we arrived at Hawker a small prosperous looking village first of all we topped up the fuel with diesel at $1.26 a litre and filled the generator and Suzuki with unleaded at $1.26 a litre also, we then had a quick look around the town centre. We were looking for a laundromat and discovered it had been bought out by the caravan park, so around we went and they allowed us to use the washing machines at $3 a machine and rather than use our water which is scarce in these parts and up further we paid a further $3 each for a shower. Money well spent for we are preserving our drinking water supply. Then we were back on the road and this time we were climbing up through the hills and the land was barren not like down in the valley. I suppose the sheep must be existing on the saltbush that is plentiful in this area. You could see the red soil with no grass on the hills. We stopped at a rest area for lunch and the outlook was great especially looking back from were we came. Lunch over and we were looking for a spot for the night and it wasn't long before we found one.


Stopped for Lunch	Looking back towards Hawker

We found a suitable spot which was another rest area and strung up a cloths line and out went the washing from the laundromat. The cloud cover did not diminish and it was to get colder as the afternoon wore on, there was a fair bit of traffic on the highway and then the woman went to look at the old ruins in the area and during this time another motorhomer came in and set up camp close to us. Liz back with chard's of glass and broken crockery, without a doubt this site has been well picked over. Happy hour arrived and we invited the new comers down and discovered they had come down from Broken Hill today where they stated it was raining heavily and they to where on the way to Marree to check out Lake Eyre in flood.
The cold night air again was dropping so we adjourned inside for our evening meal and tonight we intend to watch a video before we go off to sleep.
Kilometers travelled 156


Mountains near our camp	Part of old ruins	Bare hills near camp

Wednesday the 3rd
This morning was a little cold though slightly warmer than further down the road behind us, we had a chat to the couple from N.S.W. who were moving on to Marree today. They recall seeing us at the Combined Chapter Rally in Hobart early this year as they recognised the motorhome so we probably delayed them for a while whilst we checked out A-Frames etc.
Today is a lay day so we just lounged around reading our books and then had lunch and then enjoyed the surrounding countryside and watched the many trucks passing by carrying ore from a mine site further up the road. Then Liz said there is Mick and Kay driving up the road so on the radio and found that they had seen us and were coming into where we were.
We had a good old chin wag as to where they have been and it was interesting to hear that the areas they have been has not been all that cold, and Mick as he is renowned for lit a campfire that was guaranteed to burn for most of the night if not all night.
Then we had a very happy Happy Hour or two and then as the rain came down we adjourned inside for a late evening meal and to watch the State of Origin rugby match and then off to bed. It has been a very relaxing day even if the weather is a little unpredictable. At the moment the rain is falling steadily.


Early morning Rainbow	Hills in the background	Our camp at Winding Creek

Thursday the 4th
We awoke this morning to a heavy dew and as we packed up our camp it was obvious that a beautiful day was ahead of us with very little cloud, though we are getting a little peeved with the cloudy weather and the cold.
As we drove toward the highway I sensed there was something wrong with the tyres for there was a thumping sound, it turned out that a large rock had lodged itself between the drivers side back set of tyres. In an effort to move the rock we bent the jack lever like a boomerang. Mick was able to shatter the rock by hitting it with his axe and then we were back on the road. What wonderful scenery for the sun was shining on the many hills around us and the differing colours of green and shadow were a delight. We were to come across a roadhouse at Beltana where we bought the paper and a couple of heaven ice creams and we were on way once again.
Even though it didn't look like it we were climbing and there were very large homesteads either side of the road with plenty of sheep appearing to live on the salt bush that was in abundance.


Differing scenery along the way to marree quite spectacular

We stopped at Pinchenila for a break and noted that there was a pub and not much else so we pushed onto Leigh Creek. An area renowned for it open cut coal seams and mine supplying coal to the electricity industry in South Australia. We were to go to the supermarket and purchase frozen vegetables for the trip ahead The prices, well we just closed our eyes and paid without a murmur. Then a couple of kilometers up the road we turned off into the coal mine viewing area. We were able to see the mining that has already taken place and the old Titan dump truck and the old drag line, we were able to check out the interior of the drag line which was huge a few photo's and back on the road to find a rest area for the night.

The scenery was great and with brilliant sunshine it highlighted the countryside around us, it was flat and you could see well into the distance, we finally pulled into a roadside metal dump and settled in for the night.
We had our usual happy hour and then gathered wood though a little scarce and set our fire for later in the afternoon, we had our evening meal and then lit the fire and sat around amazed at the spectacle of the differing light at sunset and the wide open spaces.
As night closed in we were able to see car lights well off into the distance and it seemed to take forever for them to pass where we were, a little eerie to say the least and then after the beautiful evening that was turning colder we went inside and read our books and then off to bed.
Kilometers travelled 189


Overshadowed by a dump truck	Early morning sun in the desert country

Friday the 5th
A most restful night and we were on the road at 8am after making a decision to make our next camp for four days given that there was the long weekend coming up and there was a gymkhana being held at Marree. It wasn't long before we reached Lyndhurst and there was not a store or service station open at all so we continued on our way. The countryside was flat and you could see well into the distance the view was terrific.
It wasn't long before we run out of bitumen and surprisingly the gravel surface was excellent with few rough dusty spots, unfortunately as usual the four wheel drive vehicles drive past flat out and shower you with small rocks. We checked out a couple of spots before we settled for a gravel pit which is partially hidden from the road, we are only 28 kilometers from Maree. Set up camp and out to gather wood, Mick unloaded his car and we dragged small trees back to camp which were then cut up to fit our firepots.
A funny afternoon one moment sunny and the next small drops of rain not enough to wet the ground just enough to be a nuisance, then the wind picked up and it was cold along with clouds covering the sun again. Oh a thousand flies! heaven help us it gets hot tomorrow. In the distance you could see rain storms occurring and maybe the Oonadatta track will be closed as it was last week. We had a nap and then happy hour where we all came together and then as the sun set there were magnificent colours which were hard to catch with our camera's. We set up the satellite dish to watch the football tonight and then off to bed.
Kilometers travelled 63

Saturday the 6th
Late last evening we were to witness forked lightening, it sure lit up the sky and it bought a little rain though not enough to cause us any harm. This morning we decided to do a few repairs to our outside step later this afternoon. In the meantime we unhitched the Suzuki and put the empty water containers aboard and headed back to Farina some 28 kilometers away.
There was plenty of traffic heading north and the radio was still pushing the fact that Lake Eyre was flooded and there were plane flights from both Marree and Birdsville. We arrived at the ruins of Farina township that operated until 1970 which now was deserted and derelict with nature reclaiming the township. We spent several hours exploring the old township. The information states that the township of Farina was set up as a wheat growing area in the 1840's though it turned out through lack of water to be to arid and then the Ghan Train breathed new life into the township until 1970.


Welcome to Farina	Old Cemetery	Underground bake house

We checked out the old cemetery and again it showed that in the 1800's many died so young especially children. It was a delightful few hours for though the sky's were blue there was a terrible cold wind blowing and we were quick to realise that the information on the cold and dust storms was what we were experiencing, though not the same dust storms they have had in past years. The Farina homestead still operates and the camp grounds and township is another way for them to raise funds.
On the way back to camp we were able to get at some old cars and found some angle iron which cut and fitted to the back step that had been damaged recently, we were feeling like old pioneers in improvising and fixing problem that arose. Happy hour again we were all rugged up and didn't worry about lighting the fire for we went inside out of the terribly cold wind. We watched the football after our evening meal and then headed for bed.


Typical sand storm at Farina	Old Railway Station

Sunday the 7th
Still at our campsite and this morning all we did was to clean up around the camp and have a look at the car and motorhome for any work that may need attention. Cleaned a few stains and then read our books even though the cold wind again was blowing making things a bit uncomfortable. Before we knew it was lunch time and after lunch we lit the fire for we are cooking a chicken in the camp oven later in the day.
We were surprised to see Murray and Pam arrive for we were not expecting them until tomorrow, Murray indicated that they had travelled a few 400 plus kilometers days to arrive here today, even though we left a sign at the road they did not notice it, they indicated that had noticed the motorhome's from the road and drove in to see if it was us.
We then all had a good chat catching up on the news from home and those on the road, everyone seemed elated that our group for the Birdsville Track was coming together given the that this time last year we were only in the discussion stages. We were to listen to the football on the radio and then read our books again, the book on Farina township is very interesting indeed outlining the formation of the town up until the time it became a ghost town and then the time the town became an historical town and the thought of restoration was given consideration. Time for happy hour and our camp oven went into the firepot and our evening meal was underway. What a meal Roast Chicken with baked vegetables and plenty of it. Again we adjourned inside for it was to cold to eat outside in the dark. Even though we had fires it was much more comfortable inside the motorhome watching the football on television from Western Australia. Then we retired early to read our books for we certainly have plenty to choose from, hopefully this terrible wind may abate and full sunshine return, hope springs eternal.


Rugged up against the wind	Campsite in Quarry

Monday the 8th
A restful night and a nice sunny morning before the wind arrived, a heavy wind and we all folded our awnings in and sought refuge behind the motorhome's or any place we could. There is a lot of traffic coming down from Marree now that the long weekend is over which now means that we will move on in the morning.
The woman went walkabout and came across a lot of crocolyte and crystal quartz whilst Mick and Bob went in the opposite direction. Mick reckons he found some quartz with traces of gold within.
We showered later in the day so as we could pack things away and even though we have been here for around four days it has not been boring at all the happy hours we get a few laughs as people joke and etc.
Tonight for tea we will have the other half of the chicken we cooked yesterday and salad for a change and during the afternoon we turned on the radio's to listen to the football, Collingwood v Melbourne and the last quarter we watched on television.
Happy hour arrived and we lit the fire and burnt the last of the wood that we cut a few days ago with the exception of that we could load on our vehicles.
Watched television and then even though it was dark with a full moon I was able to strip down the satellite television equipment and put it away along with the generator and then off to bed.


Marree hotel	Afghan date palms	Replica of mail truck to Birdsville

Tuesday the 9th
We were up and about pretty early this morning looking forward to an early start to the day, there was a heavy dew last night and this morning we wiped the car over so as to make sure that it did not pick up to much dust etc. Well, we wasted out time for on the road the dust turned to mud on the Suzuki and it looked absolutely muddy.
We were to strike bitumen in the last kilometers before Marree, in the distance we could see the township of Marree and the amount of date palms. When we arrived it looked like a village suffering decay and deteriorating. Nothing could be further from the truth when we parked up and walked around the village it appeared to be vibrant surviving mainly on the amount of tourists coming into the area. The first thing we did was to refuel the motorhome and we were to pay $1.77 a litre so $ 84 later we had topped up the second tank. We took on water which was bore water very salty and very heavy in sulphur, the locals use bottled water shipped in 10 litre containers for $10 take it or leave it. We walked around and were somewhat surprised at the cleanliness of the town and the friendly attitude of those residents that we were to talk to.
Liz was to use the laundromat and whilst that was happening I went to the local online centre to upload the latest changes to the diary. We decided to park for free behind the Maree Hotel, Oh Yeah! after an early happy hour with a beer costing $5 a glass with spirits costing $7 a nip. Of course after liz had returned from the laundromat and hung out the washing to dry, us blokes went to the pub to check out the cost of meals etc.
We then went and had a few beers with other campers that had come into the camp area for happy hour and it was great to listen to their travel experiences to date, come 6pm we went over to the hotel and paid $20 per head for a smorgasbord of hot dishes. The meal was great and we had the chance to meet other like minded travelers and exchange information. After our meal given there was a full moon we elected to go inside for the wind was terribly cold, on the television and the off to to bed to read our books.
Kilometers travelled 31

Wednesday the 10th
A rather cold night, on going outside this morning discovered there was very heavy dew, there were a few campers who were sleeping in the open in their swags were now gathered around a small fire. I walked over and had a discussion with them and discovered that they were going to Lake Eyre this morning in a helicopter at $500 per person.
We had decided that we would drive the hundred kilometers one way to have a look and have a picnic lunch, we were lucky that as we did not leave until 11am they had returned and informed us that the South Lake Eyre had no water at all and the main Lake Erye was only partially full. This is contrary to the information in local papers and on television that would have us believe that both lakes were full and there was plenty of birdlife. One wag was to comment that the rumour had in fact been sponsored by the Marree Hotel proprietor and the local shop drumming up business, the woman in the online centre informed us that she had rang the A. B.C. dispelling the information they were distributing as an untruth.
We left and had to travel up the Oonadatta Track for few kilometers before we turned to go to Lake Eyre. The road was in the first instance not bad until we struck the more sandy soil and then the corrugations were absolutely terrible. Not to be deterred we were to take in the scenery with the mirage in the distance that looked like water.


Wide open spaces	Road to Lake Eyre	Dingo fence

The country was so flat and desolate it was either sandy or stony though I have to say that across the plains as far as you can see has a rugged beautiful way about it, it is hard to describe the desolation and the beauty easily. We came across the Dingo Fence that runs from Queensland down to the sea in South Australia, we had to stop and open the gate and close it behind us. We are now traveling on an outback station which is 400,000 hectares in size and carries stock of 4000; needless to say that the cattle that we saw of were the Droughtmaster breed for there is not a lot of water about, in fact we were to see little of it at all. Then we came across brumbies feeding on the little grass there was some 3 hundred metre's from the road. The road corrugations were to get worse and the car was sliding from side to side attempting to gain some grip on the terrible road.


Dam used by stock and birds	Lake Eyre South	Jim having a Boags for lunch

We arrived at Lake Eyre South and there was not a bit of water at all just salt over the lake proper with plenty of Mirages in the distance we took a couple of photo's and then moved on to the main lake. On the way we were to see desert flowers blooming due to the rain that fell a few weeks ago.

When we arrived there was little water we could see and it was only using Mick's binoculars that we were able to see water in the distance and quite a few Pelicans swimming about. I have to say that the information on the area fell far short of actually what was here. The plane and helicopter business out of Marree and no doubt Birdsville have been cashing in the large influx of visitors to the area.
We had lunch in the car park and then took photo's of what we could see and then started back to Marree some 100 kilometers away.
On the way back we were to stop and take a few photo's of the wildlife and then stopped in the designated camping area some 46 kilometers away from the lake and had a good look about and discovered a small river that had formed small pools where Heron and other birdlife had come together, there were also plenty of canary's etc coming into for a drink. Back on the road we next stopped at the Eyre Lake Yacht Club which is under construction and then back to camp.
I went into the pub for couple of pints and then back to the group for happy hour, it has been a great day full of surprises on the magnificence of the the outback. It is going to be another cold night so we left the fire and came in for our evening meal and watched television until 9pm and then into to bed to read our books.


Lake Eyre	Lake Eyre Yacht Club

Thursday the 11th
Another wind change and boy isn't it cold we haven't been in shorts or t-shirts yet, we are not doing much today other than have a good old chin wag with the new comers. Each day brings a fresh batch of Bikers and all sorts of campers and to date very few motorhome's. There isn't much to see around the town though given the amount of red dust it is very clean and the locals are all very friendly.
We went up to the tele centre again and uploaded this diary, however for some reason I am having trouble downloading e-mail even through their server, we had a good old chat with an indigenous bloke who told us the history of the lake and let us look at his photo's of the Eyre Lake. He runs all day tours for $100 per day per person which includes morning tea and a barbecue lunch. Of course he will not tell us the track he takes to get so close to the water, which is fair enough.
After lunch we sat around getting out of the cold wind and reading books, we will be glad when we move on Monday; the day when the other people in our group are due to arrive.
Later we went over to the pub for a couple coldies and as usual it was packed with tourists, back to the camp area for happy hour and that cold wind is still blowing. Everyone headed inside as the darkness fell and watched television before heading off to bed.
Friday the 12th
Wind never so much, though a beautiful sunrise. After breakfast donned a beanie which covered my ears as well and another coat and went walkabout around the town, besides the red dirt and dust the town has a particular cleanliness about it and the school which teaches up to grade 12 is modern with the exception of the pre school. We were to spot and inspect a few old cars and trucks that could probably be restored by the right person.
Over to the only shop and as I thought the shop that is closed is owned by the by the same person turned out to be correct, we bought a pie and pastie which we ate outside the shop which cost $9 and then went via the tele centre to check for e-mail coming in.
On our way back to the camp area we were to meet Len and his wife Sandra from Tassie and we had a good old chin wag about this and that before coming home for lunch. Bob and Mona and Mick and Kay have gone back down to Leigh Creek to get their gas bottles filled due no refill in the town, it is some 117 back over the road we came and they are going to make a day of it. They are going to buy bread and other things for us as well. Bob and Mona and Mick and Kay returned with the gas they required and also Ian and Denise has caught up with us so it is only Mick and Anne to arrive and we will be on our way up the Birdsville Track.
We had a few more happy campers come in and the happy hour was a mixture of caravan owners and motorhomer's and the chatter was great. We at last we were to meet someone that had come from Birdsville and they were to tell us the road was quite good except for about 20 kilometers. It really was cold and with such a cold wind that on darkness falling we came inside and had our evening meal.
It was time to watch the television and then the St Kilda v Carlton match. The campers beside us were Carlton supporters so one us are going to be disappointed by morning. Generators were running late and certainly there are a few around us. Then off to bed after the footie with another blanket and hopefully a peaceful night ahead of us
Saturday the 13th
What can we say it we are starting to become a little bored with sitting around in the wind and dust waiting for others to join us before we go up the track. Liz was to go to the laundromat and I sat around reading my book. It was a sunny day with no wind, though after lunch that was to change and the sand again was blowing upon us, red sand no wonder they say that sand storms abound in the area and why Farina as a town finally was beaten by the amount of sand that finally beat the village. There was constant movement of people on Planes and helicopters going out to see the Lake Eyre before it finally dry's out.
We went into the pub for a few and then out to have happy hour with the late arrivals in the camping areas, then it was time to go inside and we were to watch the football before going off to bed, a very relaxing day.
Sunday the 14th
What a terrible day with the wind and the amount of sand in the air, this has to be our worst day yet, however we are more fortunate that those down south who are experiencing rain by the bucket load.
There were a few happy travelers again going on the planes from 7:30am. We were still in bed and we still recognise the different beat of the engines as they take their load of tourists over the Eyre Lakes. Due to the conditions of the day even though the sun was shining we were somewhat housebound, so to speak, and it was late afternoon when I sat in the front of the motorhome to gain some warmth and no sand! I think.
It is not hard to imagine how the early pioneers were defeated by the elements and especially Farina which was overrun with drought and sand, the fence around the pub is some 200 mill of the ground so as to not allow a build up of sand. To say we are not peeved with the stay here is an understatement when we get our final members of our group tomorrow we are on our way up the Birdsville Track.
We came out during the afternoon long enough to get the Suzuki refueled and set up for the tow tomorrow. We still had a happy hour though the sand blowing was a real pain, we were still able to laugh and there were a few new comers that came in late this afternoon who joined us. The generator really suffered due to the sand blowing in the wind though it supplied us with enough power to watch television and stay inside out of the cruel wind and the sand right up until we were ready for bed.


The signs at the start of the Birdsville Track.

Monday the 15th

Another restful night though the morning was no different to yesterday with the wind still blowing and the sand still causing a nuisance. We had our showers and by 10am we decided to move out and go and park on the Birdsville Track road to wait for Mick and Anne and Casey and lee anne and son. Mick and Kaye and Bob and Mona elected to go ahead and find a camping spot for the night.
Around 11am we were to hear Mick and Anne on the UHF and they were only 10 kilometers out of Marree, when they pulled up they indicated that they would only refuel and then catch us up. After taking photo's of the signs and talking to others that had completed the Birdsville Track we were on our way.
The road in the first instance was quite good and we were to strike sections that were a little stony though easy to travel, there was not a great deal of traffic on the road so the going was easy. The road was straight as you could see and the countryside though bare was in its own way having a rugged beauty about it. We were to pass several homesteads and it was obvious that there had been rain for the countryside had a certain greening about it, thus the rugged beauty.


Enjoying the Bore Spa	Wet lands on the way	Water across the Birdsville Track

We stopped at a camp area some 50 kilometers from Marree and decided that the wind and the sand was to great, we were to talk to a couple of people who were enjoying the hot water bore spa in a tank especially set up for that purpose. We decided to push on and the road was rather full of stones though reasonably smooth. We came across an area that the water was across the road and we stopped to check it out and found there were wetlands with bore water for you could smell the sulphur and salt. The only birdlife were two Brolga's so we pushed on, further up the road we were to pull up for lunch and discovered that the Suzuki had suffered a rather heavy rock to the window screen despite all our precautions. The rock had not only caused a chip to the screen it even developed into crack that run though the screen which we were not happy about.
We then taped screens and other materials to save any further damage and at our next stop we were to find rather large rocks that had lodged in the air ducts and on the roof, we may have to set the car free and Liz will need to drive it the last 250 kilometers to Birdsville.
We were to come across water across the road and drove through very slowly, it was deep and in the biggest stretch it was very sludgy and required us to put the metal to the pedal to get through. Finally we arrived at Cooper Creek and we have set up camp. The wind is still blowing very strongly an we all gathered behind Mick and Anne's caravan and had a very early happy hour that went well into the night. What can we say after our evening meal we went and played cards and had a few more stubbies before retiring for the night.
Kilometers travelled 145


Our camp Cooper Creek	Extra precautions on Suzuki

Tuesday the 16th
We were awaken by the noisy Corella's and their mating calls, though given the dawn and the pleasant day that awaited us. The dreaded wind had abated and we had lovely sunshine and the purest of blue sky's. After breakfast Liz was to wash clothes and the bonus of this area was the use of water from the artesian basin which was sweet to drink not like the sulphur and high salt from bore water we experienced in Maree. Murray and Pam were to take the opportunity to empty and refill their tanks in their motorhome for it tasted so sweet. We mingled at various times of the day and I had assistance from a few to help protect the Suzuki from further damage hopefully. Anne was to lend us an old blanket which we draped over the bonnet. A lot of work has now gone into protection the next step is to have Liz drive the vehicle, though we will worry about that later.
The rest of the day was spent relaxing and enjoying the day and each others company and belting the flies away for there were plenty fly's though none of the dreaded wind. Later in the afternoon we played bowls until happy hour. As usual the happiness was evident given the amount of fly's and as the sun dropped the cool of the evening came down.
The amount of traffic on the road was minimal with two tourist bus's dropping in to use the toilets, to have two flushing toilets in the middle of nowhere is a bit of a bonus. We had our evening meal and then went out to the fire to have an extended happy hour and then off to bed.

Wednesday the 17th
Up early and about to another warm windless day with plenty of blue sky's we first went back to the memorial on the hill where the small barge is located that used to ferry the mail, goods and people across Cooper Creek when in flood. The barge was donated by Dalgetty's to assist the mail and to make sure that cattle stations did not run short of supplies. Then we were strung out like brown cows heading to Birdsville, the road was starting to get rough and by contacting each other by UHF we were able to keep up with road conditions and traffic coming or going.


Barge to cross the "Cooper"	Jim standing guard outside pub	Excellent display of hats Mungerannie Pub

We finally arrived at the Mungerannie Hotel about two and half hours of driving and were happy to pull up, the Publican informed us that the bar opened every day at 8am and then was to show us a bit of the history of the pub and the surrounds. There were the usual hat, bra, flags, money and other memorabilia strung up from the ceiling. A typical outback pub and the publican didn't even wear shoes. There were a collection of Tom Cruse mail trucks in the front yard and we bought a fridge magnet of the Mungerannie Hotel had a couple of beers and ciders. We filled with diesel and was pleasantly surprised to find it 7 cents a litre cheaper than Marree and the take away food was a good price for where we were in the outback.


Casey and Mick having a beer	Our Publican	Decorated ceiling off the pub

Most of us bought meals and Liz opted for a huge savaloy in roll and I had a egg and bacon roll washed down with another stubby, we then went and had a look at the camp ground down by the wet lands which had a hot spa built into the ground and it stank so we decided to move on.


Liz & Jim's food for lunch	On the Birdsville Track	Hot bore water near our campsite

We were now traveling on some very rough road, though in several places the road was good, the Suzuki has not sustained any further damage we can see so it should be right to Birdsville. The countryside was full of sand hills and again that rugged picturesque beauty was prevalent. Our new campsite was located down on the flat, on the top on the hill was the scalding hot water bore, which had steam drifting off it. By the time it had found its way down to the camp area it had cooled considerably and we found if left it in the bucket for 30 minutes it was the right temperature for a shower. We used our battery operated pump and had wonderful showers with plenty of water, Liz then washed a few cloths and indicated that she would wash up after our evening meal in it.
It now getting warmer and we have a nice shady place near our van to sit and the fly's are not such a big problem as in our last camp. Happy Hour and then our meal and then out under the brilliant stars to have an extended happy hour. The clear sky's and the brilliance of the stars plus the milky way are mesmerising.
Kilometers Travelled 115


Hot water from the bore	Our camp in the trees	First sign of wild flowers

Thursday the 18th
What a wonderful sunrise, the crimson of the early dawn against a clear blue sky is a sight to see. Unfortunately it is so hard to capture on the camera for the flash wishes to work taking away the colours of the morning. We packed our camp up and said farewell to Mick and Anne and Casey and Lee anne for they want to be in Birdsville today. A few of us went up the hot spring to take a few more photo's and then we were on our way the road was to cut up very rough and we were to slow down considerably. There a few travelers that were to come up on us and sprayed us with rocks as they passed.


The corrugated road ahead	Iron stone paddocks	Trees of the sandy outback

The road was deteriorating to the extent that at times we were down into third gear and still it was rough, we could hear things in the back of the motorhome moving about it so rough. Considering all this the scenery around us was great with a few stands of trees and the many sand hills that abounded. At times the road was only sand and then we hit the Stony Desert. Well! what can I say the temperature rose dramatically and the ride was terrible.


Sturt camping memorial	Nearby plaque of horse ride

considering that we were only to travel less than 50 kilometers for the day due to the condition of the road we stopped for a break and then when we all came together we pushed on. Our next stop was on the Stony Desert where their was toilets in the middle of nowhere, parking on the surface gave off a lot of heat and then we decided to have an early lunch and push on to find a better campsite. Well at times the going was so tough that we just stopped for a rest, the gibber stones were really a problem. We seemed to be traveling better than those in front of us as we kept catching up. another stop and away again, we came across a few signs that suggested that we slow down and frankly speaking we couldn't go any slower if we tried. We were to come across a couple of memorials, the fires was a plaque indicating that Sturt camped nearby in 1845 looking for the inland sea the other was a plaque commemorating the fact the Horse ride from Port Augusta to Kurumba camped alongside the original Sturt Campsite some 161 years later
As we wound our way up through the sand hills we finally found a spot to camp for the night and wouldn't you know we nearly became bogged in the sand before we set up.
Given there were a few trees we came together for an early happy hour for we were fatigued traveling the road, having condemning the road I have to say if you could take your concentration off the road then the countryside was something to see with all the sand hills and the small trees and the wildflowers that were appearing. It could well be the condition of the road was due to the amount of road trains bringing cattle back from agistment for the other than the amount of iron stone there was a bit of green shrubbery. We decided the condition of the road and the kilometers we have travelled today that given that we are only 120 kilometers from Birdsville we will push on all the way.We had our meal and then gathered around the fire for a few more refreshments and then off to bed after watching the Marngrook Football Show.
Given that we left our camp this morning at 8:30am and didn't pull up until nearly 3pm, having only a 30 minute lunch break and a couple of ten minute breaks we only covered 171 kilometers, such was the roughness of the track.
Kilometers travelled 171

Friday the 19th
We had a great night around the fire in a tree lined dip in the ground and this morning at 8am we started our last run across the track into Birdsville, we had only about 130 kilometers to go and it should have been a good run. We discovered this morning that the glass over the vegetable crisper in the fridge was broken which highlighted how rough the road was yesterday. The wind was either on our side or at our rear and the day was sunny and not a cloud in the sky. As we moved on the road was still rough with corrugations and the 4 wheel drive vehicles going past showering us with rock and dust.
We were still on the Stony Desert and the gibber rocks and other large rocks was not making the going easy in fact we were down to third gear and only doing 20 kph in place and really getting sick of the quality of the track in places. I have to say though the scenery was magnificent with the many sand dunes the track wound through and the countryside was starting to green. Every now and again we would pass the boundaries of the many cattle stations located in the outback.


Road changes notice corrugations. Terrible!		Changing countryside now in sandy conditions

Without warning we came out of the Stony Desert and now the landscape was now much lusher and the dunes and shrubs and trees were very pleasing to the eye. The road improved dramatically and we were able to at last get into overdrive and travel at 70kph or higher, it allowed us to take in more of the beautiful countryside though we came through several sand blows in the road that quickly grabbed your attention. There were at least 20 Pelicans soaring over the road and flying towards some of the lagoons we were to see.
Unfortunately again we came across road conditions that would force us back into second gear and was to stay this way for over 15 kilometers and at the same time the 4 wheel drive vehicles were still speeding as if there was no tomorrow.


Start of Track from Queensland	Queensland Border	Group photo at the border

We eventually arrived at the Queensland Border and we gathered until everyone arrived and then took a group photo and rested up. There was a road grader hard at work on the Dimantina side of the road and we waited until he had graded a great deal of road before we moved off. It wasn't long before we arrived at the welcome sign to Birdsville. Across the road, which was at last good bitumen, was the famous Birdsville race track which appears to be used only once a year for their famous race day.


Welcome especially to Birdsville		Birdsville race track

The race track is only 4 kilometers out of town so in no time at all we arrived and went straight to the information centre and gathered material and then went around to the Bakery for lunch. I had a curried camel meat pie and a chunky meat pie and Liz had just a chunky meat pie and they were washed down with a cappuccino each. Refueled the truck at $1.43 cents a litre and the later it showed that we had a poor consumption
Then we moved onto our camp area down on the Diamantina River, the day was very warm the warmest we have experienced on our journey yet. In the motorhome the temperature had soared to 27 degrees celsius so we opened the windows to allow the breeze to cool us.
We cleaned the motorhome and the Suzuki for there was plenty of dust and especially in the Suzuki, we went driving checking out a few spots around the town and finally out to the refuse tip and was lucky enough to find fridges and took a few parts to replace the broken glass in the crisper. Back to camp and before we knew it happy hour arrived so we went into the group for one stubby only for we needed to have our showers. We said farewell and headed into the hotel to meet up with Mick and Anne and Casey and Lee anne and Jamie and have an evening meal with them before they head off tomorrow morning on their trip, we wont see them again until we arrive back in Tasmania. After the meal which was great we adjourned to their caravan park and left after the first quarter of the Essendon V Melbourne match.
Back in camp we watched more of the match and headed off to bed both a little worn out and tired.
Kilometers travelled 130


Royal Hotel Birdsville	Birdsville Hotel

Saturday the 20th
Slept in this morning and as the others had decided to leave to check out the Red Dunes 38 kilometers from Birdsville we decided to stay home today and clean up a little more. After breakfast out came the awning and I strung a cloths line in the trees for when Liz did the washing.
We were to hear Mick and Casey on the uhf so we bid them a safe journey and indicated that we would have beer with them when we arrived home. With the help of Ian we have constructed a temporary perspex sheet to go over the crisper in the fridge. The temperature has risen to 24 celsius and there is plenty of sunshine so on with the shorts and t-shirt and it is getting warmer.
After the normal camp duties we decided to go and give the Suzuki a going over at the truck wash on the edge of town, the amount of dust especially in the engine compartment was enormous thought the pressure hose removed very quickly.
After washing the car we had to use the chamois to wipe it down for the bore water leaves white rings and if not removed straight away it cuts into the duco, the car looks nice and clean and will only stay that way until we get back on the road in a couple of days.


Birdsville water supply	Sturt Desert Pea

Back to camp and discovered we had lost or misplaced the spare key to the Suzuki and dispute looking everywhere we thought we had been the did not turn up, the others have turned up from there trip and we are going up to the pub for lunch and couple of beers, the temperature has now climbed to 27 degrees with no breeze.
I had fish & chips again today with salad and Liz had a chicken wrap both were plentiful and cooked to perfection, we had another look around the internals of the pub and then went out to the town water supply.
It is gushing up 1200 gallon a minute from the great artesian bore at a temperature of 98 degrees celsius, they run the water through channels and then into the town water supply it is quite ok to drink for it has a low sulphur lever. We stood there mesmerized for a good ten minutes watching the water gush up and then away down the cooling channels.
Yesterday we spotted a display of the Sturt Desert Pea and for the life of we couldn't find it, we drove around and around the town looking for the display. We found the one at the Bakery and I knew it wasn't as good as the one we were trying to locate. Wouldn't you know it we were driving past it a few times, I said to Liz the problem is that we are looking for the Suzuki Key in all the logical places just like trying to locate the keys.
We inspected the old Royal Hotel ruins that operated as a pub in 1845, the stonework is still standing though some of the rooms and roof is falling down. Back to camp where we had a nap even in the heat of the day, and then it was happy hour and for tea we are going to have jaffles and then watch the Collingwood V Sydney match before going off to bed.


The Simpson Desert	Extra precautions if heading into the Desert

Sunday the 21st
Cool nights and warm days are the norm now which is great, this morning cleaned the solar panels and did the usual around the camp. Washing done and hung out and cleaned the motorhome inside and then packed ingredients for a lunch and then up to the Bakery for fresh bread for out lunch out at the Big Red sand dunes. Only white available and whilst there we were to witness a person buying a can of Coke $5 thank you. Oh well that's the outback, the bread was $5 at least it was freshly baked, though no other types of bread and no rolls available until next Friday.
We headed out of Birdsville towards the Big Red dunes that take you out into the Simpson Desert, along the way the scenery was beautiful. Though it was with some trepidation that we went towards the big dunes not knowing what to expect.
We were notice the greening of the countryside due to recent rains and can understand why they are now bringing the cattle back for grazing of the grass? in the desert.


Simpson Desert	Bird nests under roof	Suzuki climbing the Little Big Red

On arrival we were somewhat taken back with the size of the dunes that had to be climbed, and even though they indicated that the tyres should deflated before climbing I put the car into four wheel drive low and despite Liz's protestations away I went and wouldn't you know it half way up bogged in the sand. Put the Suzuki in reverse gear and reversed down the dune. Despite indicating that she wanted to get out of the car I put it into 4 wheel drive high range and up we went and it did it easy, so easy in fact that I nearly went over the crown and down the other side; I felt that I shouldn't stretch my luck and stay on top.


Coming down	Half way mark	Sitting on top of Big Red

Ian and Denise arrived and I went back down the dune and drove up with Ian, we were taken back with the scenery and amount of greenery and the desert flowers that were appearing. We took heaps of Photo's and as usual you have to think which of those will you use! Then we went down and had our lunch and enjoyed the warmth of the day and noted the bird nests under the roof line. It was amazing how hot it was standing on the sand even though there was a slight breeze.


Top of the Dune	Desert Flowers	On Top of Big Red

After lunch we went along the front of the huge dune, (all sand dunes run north to south for what reason I haven't a clue) and finally came across the dune they call "Big Red" and with some trepidation I lined up to climb that famous dune. I noted a few Land Cruisers on the top of the dune and when I checked that it was ok for me to go on up and again with Liz's protests away I went and was surprised how the Suzuki performed, even given the huge holes it just went straight up. When we reached the top the other four wheel drivers indicated that they had bets that we wouldn't make it. When on top they came down to look at the car and were surprised at its capabilities against their Land Cruisers with their deflated tyres.
What an enormous view from the top of Big Red and you could see the track across the various dune to the west as people who were game enough went on their way to Alice Springs across the Simpson desert, good luck to them. Given that Bob & Mona in their Nissan and Mick & Kay in their Suzuki had attempted to climb the dunes the previous day with no success we were proud that our car achieved what it did without deflating the tyres or over revving the motor. No, we are not boasting nor am I saying that I have special driving skills it just happened and quite frankly we were not out to demean their attempts, we are so pleased with the car the way it handled the Birdsville Track whilst under tow and now with the ease it climbed the sand dunes especially Big Red.
Back to Birdsville for water and then back to camp and happy hour, we cooked our evening meal in the camp oven on the fire. Very nice indeed and then we sank a couple more which meant that I have finished two cartons of Boags in no time at all watched the television and then went outside to sit around the fire and enjoy the stars and then off to bed happy with the day that was so enjoyable.

Monday the 22nd
Slept in again and missed the early showing at the Birdsville Working Museum, had our breakfast and cleaned up around the camp and set the fire for tonight. Up to the laundromat for Liz to do the sheets etc, whilst there we filled the water drums and then back at camp transferred it to the main tank. Hung up the washing and then headed out again.


Old fuel dispensers	Old stove and cast iron pots	Very old washing machines

Time for the next show at the Museum at 11am, before we went in we noticed three young blokes on the Honda Postman's bikes and we had a chat to them for a while and they indicated they had driven from Townsville. They stated they were going out to the dunes and into the Simpson Desert with only ten litre's of fuel and two litre's of water each. I indicated they would have to carry the bikes on their shoulders up the dunes and then we had a good old laugh.


Hundreds of different food cans	Restoration of Cobb&Co coach	Mule working the chaff cutter

We paid our $10 per head and joined about 40 others for the show, the bloke makes it clear no photo taking, no asking questions until after the show, then he will answer all of your questions. I think its the time factor, Well the bloke is well versed and a real showman as he took us through the many hundreds of items on display and all were in working condition, washing machines, old original fridges run on carbide, shearer's and bush lamps working on carbide and the list goes on and on. He is so clear and strong with his voice that you do not miss a thing even if you are unable to get a total view of what he is talking about.
We have seen many museums in our travels over the years and become a bit sick of them, though this is must see for it deals with memorabilia from the outback to survive and early toys, prams, pedal cars etc. We then adjourned outside to where they were further displays of old machinery in working condition which would make the different early machinery society's envious. He gave a lecture on his two mules that are working and he strapped one up and it went around in circles which worked a chaff cutter and the bonus was of course the chaff was for the Mules. He was to explain that Mules are bred from donkeys and crossed with horses, which is why they are so large. The session over we were then free to spend time going over all the exhibits again and take photo's and we took 2 hours all up and could have spent more time there if wanted.
We then adjourned to the Bakery for two chunky meat pies a pastie and washed down with a mug of Cappuccino, beautiful!


Desert flowers at cemetery	Birdsville from the cemetery

We then drove up to the cemetery for a look see and it was obvious in the early days the aborigines had their section and the rest was for others. In all it is not very well kept though given the harshness of the elements it is understandable. From the hill you can see Birdsville and the airport. Back to camp and we just relaxed with the temperature rising to 26 degrees in the shade and of course plenty of fly's.
Happy hour arrived and then we cooked our evening meal outside on the fire and then sat around enjoying the cool of the evening and the starry sky before going off to bed.


Airport across from Hotel	Main street of Birdsville

Tuesday the 23rd
After a warm night, a pretty dawn with clear blue sky's welcomed us this morning. We are parting ways today as a group Mick & Kay and Murray & Pam and Bob & Mona have decided to head off towards Windora and then out onto the coastal regions, we have decided to stay an extra day or so for we do not want to travel to the coastal areas at this stage given we still have 2 months to go in our outback travels. As we said our farewells at happy hours last night it was a quick good bye and wishing each of them safe travels and they were on their way. After washing was completed and hung out we drifted up into the village and filled our water containers, dumped rubbish at the tip and then came back to look at the old hospital that used to operate in the area until the

arrival of the flying doctor service.
The history is in photo's and the old equipment including dentist, operating theatre and different wards. It was first run by the missionaries and then the Diamantina Shire Council assumed control funded by the state government. Every thing today rely's on the flying doctor service to visit or make emergency landings as required. We went into the shop to buy onions and they were $3 a kilo and as we need them, you pay the price without querying it. Cabbaged were $3.50 for a half.
For some reason the town looks deserted today there are not many tourists coming into the town at all and there are no vehicles around the Bakery which is most strange.
We drove down to the concrete crossing over the Diamantina River and took a few photo's of birds and the river flow is very poor and as usual the waters were brown which seems to be the case in all Queensland rivers in the outback. We were to see about forty Pelicans flying in formation no doubt looking for a suitable feeding spot along the river, they were to high to take a photo of. Then off to have a look at the tree that contains the Sturt's initials and the date he passed through this area in the 1800's you could make out the start of the date and no more.
Back to camp and as the temperature is currently 26 degrees we opted to have lunch inside for the fly's outside were in pest proportion. Then out came a couple of Yabby traps and they were baited up and then tossed into the Diamantina to hopefully catch a few yabbies. We just relaxed up until happy hour and had a quiet one with Ian & Denise and then lit the fire to cook our evening meal and then sat around it again enjoying the tranquility and the stars before going off to bed.

Wednesday the 24th
Restful night and after breakfast checked out the Yabby pots all empty and then went back and filled our containers with water for our travels tomorrow, we drove around Birdsville again and then back to start our packing up of the camp.
We have now completed the second phase of our outback trip and even given the state of sections of the Birdsville Track it has been wonderful to complete the journey to date. As far as progressive towns go Birdsville leaves Maree for dead, Marree can be likened to a dust bowl and just existing thankful of the tourists passing through. Birdsville? It is something even better than you would believe when listening and reading material on the place, the town has been modernised without detracting from the outback experience and the streets around the town have only had bitumen applied to them three weeks ago. As a tourist destination people come in all forms of vehicles and then the Dash 8 Aircraft arrive on special tourist flights to the area, and lets not forget the small single engine planes that abound.
Now the blurb would have you believe that at the Birdsville Race time that planes of all sizes land next to the pub and they then walk to the race course nearby, well the facts are; yes the aircraft do land close to the hotel there is only a street that separates them. The airport is a dedicated strip which is fenced off right around its perimeter and it is true we sat in the pub sipping a few coldies and watching the planes and helicopter taking off on the tourist trips to Lake Eyre etc. You could have a 6 minute helicopter ride around the village for $70. We would give the area a nine out of ten for the effort they have put into the town to make it tourist friendly and the shire council has just opened a fully serviced subdivision that has three new houses built. The publican was to tell us that from November to the end of April there are no more than 60 full time residents including 7 children in the town. During this period the bakery closes and the rest of the business's operate on less hours, during the tourism season they fly in up to 200 contract workers in and the town becomes alive as people head out across the Simpson Desert and holiday in the caravan park or like us camp on the side of the Diamantina River in the shade of the coolabah trees.One of the most enjoyable times was having lunch out at the sand dunes at the commencement of the Simpson Desert and have the Suzuki climb not only Big Red sand dune others as well. This vantage point allowed us to take in the beautiful panorama that the desert presents after recent rains.
Prepare the car for the next journey over 300 kilometers of gravel roads and start packing up our camp in readiness for departure.
This is our last happy hour and we are a little sad to be heading off in the morning, though the consolation is that the next part of our outback travels are to begin and who knows where that will take us.


Birdsville Health Clinic

Thursday the 25th
Goodness me, awoke to an overcast sky that looked a little like rain, had our breakfast and finished our packing and then we were on the road. Thank you Birdsville we have really enjoyed our time here among other things the dozens of Pelicans that were flying in formation over our camp each day at twilight.
We turned onto the road to Windorah and the road in the first instance even though it was gravel was in good condition, later it would deteriorate and surprise, surprise bitumen for a few hundred metre's and that was where we had to climb over the sand dunes. The countryside was glorious with the many different colours of the Desert arising from recent rains. It was strange driving along and all of a sudden having to climb over a red sand dune and the panorama appeared before us.
We came across a sign indicating an overtaking opportunity in 5 kilometers, this turned out to be bitumen for the next couple of kilometers and also the emergency landing strip for air craft. There was plenty of road works taking place and heaps of machinery working on the road and we wondered if they were actually improving the road or just bringing the stone to the surface.
We were to see several Wedge Tailed Eagles on the sand dunes and lucky enough to spot one about to take off, their wing span was a lot shorter than those in Tassie. In no time at all we arrived at Cuppa Creek rest area and here in the semi desert was a shelter and toilet. We intend to stay the night so we drove down into the hollow beside the creek that would no doubt have plenty of water in the rainy season.
Set up camp and out came the chain saw and we were able to cut dry wood and prepare a nice mince stew for our evening meal, we had a rather long happy hour and sat out by the fire and ate our tea before going inside to watch the football show, we have decided to stop here for the next couple of days to watch the football etc.
Kilometers travelled 88


Bitumen up through the sand dunes	Wedge Tailed Eagle taking off

Friday the 26th
We had a spot of rain during the night, thinking it may rain before we went to bed last night I slanted the awning and placed a bucket to catch any rain that may fall. When we awoke the this morning there were a few clouds with plenty of sun and the ground was not damp at all, there was little water in the bucket just enough to wash our hands.
Over breakfast by the fire we talked about our travels to date and came to the conclusion that we traveled probably to fast up the Birdsville Track and never really had the full experience of the colorful outback. We have taken the decision that we will go into camping mode over the next week so we have set our camp to last until Sunday.
Cuppa Creek rest area is pleasant down by the dry river bed with plenty of greenery and dry firewood for our fires. Ian and I produced our chainsaws and cut a heap of dry wood and stacked it for use by our campfire area, then we looked at some of the damage that needed attention on our vehicles and fixed that and then just sat around under the coolabah trees and read our books or just chatted away. As we are down in the gully from the proper rest area we note the happy campers streaming past driving fast into Birdsville or heading the other way towards Windorah.
After lunch we had a visit from one of the Shire Council workers whose vehicle had punctured and he did not have the correct tools to change the wheel, we took our socket sets up and by the time we arrived there was a cast of thousands, so to speak. In no time at all he had changed his wheel and was on his way to recover a truck that had broken down. It was a demonstration on how the friendliness and concern of the locals and the travelers have when someone is in a bit of trouble out this way. We are still taken with the beauty of the area with its trees and a little up the hill there is nothing more than ironstone and sand dunes and a shelter shed and a long drop toilet. I think we have made the right decision to enjoy the outback and its ruggedness and its beauty for we have enough food and water to last over a fortnight before the need to replenish. We will need to restrict washing and shower water and alternate between a wash and shower over the next week, no problem. We will only come this way the once so we will ensure that we do not miss anything over the next 300 kilometers.
Shock horror for happy hour we only had a cup of tea declaring today an alcohol free day even though we are sitting by the fire the temperature is currently 26 degrees very nice indeed. We placed pumpkin, potatoes and onion in alfoil and put them in the hot coals for our evening meal and then threw a few sausages on the hot plate steamed a few beans and made the gravy and had our meal by the fire as dusk was falling and the sun showing its last rays of the day, had a cuppa and then headed inside to watch the football. At 7:45 pm it is still 23 degrees in the motorhome though it is getting a little cooler outside.
Needless to say the satellite dish is set up and we will watch the Essendon V Carlton match this evening and the Collingwood game tomorrow.


Ian & Jim cutting wood	Our Woodpile at camp	Coolabah trees near our camp

Saturday the 27th
Not a cloud in the sky this morning and as the fire was still hot from last night just a few sticks is all it required to have going again,

on with the kettles and out with the bread for toasting and it was pleasant to have breakfast in the cool morning morning air. I went up to the top of the hill and stood taking in the beautiful countryside for a long time before returning to camp
Liz was to do a little washing and I cut more wood to take with us when we leave this pleasant spot tomorrow, we then spent the rest of time just relaxing and talking about our future travels.
Ian was to put together a damper and Liz made scones in the camp ovens which we had for lunch, very nice indeed and then we had a poppy nap before putting together a stew complete with dumplings for our evening meal. Liz was to listen to the Collingwood game on the radio and then it was time for our happy hour we were to enjoy the last rays of sunshine the temperature again being 26 degrees during the day and then we had out evening meal.
We stoked the fire up and and enjoyed the companionship and we were all in agreeance that this camp at Cuppa Creek has been great. Then at 8:30pm we went inside to watch the West Coast V Hawthorn game and then off to bed.


Jim & Liz enjoying breakfast	Scones & Damper for lunch

Sunday the 28th
Loaded up the wood to take with us and we were on our way, the road for the first 10 kilometers was a little rough and then the road became quite good. We would come across signs warning that we would come across sand dunes which the road wound its way through. The scenery was breathtaking so green amongst the red gibbers and trees.
We were to come across a heap of Corella's feeding and then we were to see three groups of Brolga's and they wouldn't stay until we pulled up to take photo's which is sad for they are such a beautiful bird. We came over one dune and were shocked at the sight of Lake off to our right with so much birdlife and cattle around its banks. On the maps it is called Durrie Jumpup, we drove in for a further look and were pleased that we did to experience this oasis in the desert country. In the distance you could still see the sand hills that were running north to south across the landscape.


Spot the Brolga's near bush	Lake Durrie Jumpup

Back on the road towards Betoota and though the going was easy we had a quite a few 4x4's passing both ways and they do not care they drive as there is no tomorrow and spray dust and small rocks everywhere. At least the three trailer road train was more considerate for we pulled up to allow him the full road and at least he slowed down. We were to pass the turn off to the Cordillo Downs and Inaminka on the Strzelecki Track and the sign indicated that we were only 26 kilometers from the border of South Australia.
We finally arrived at Betoota population 0 and there was the old pub with high fencing around it to keep out the vandals. The hotel was built in the 1880's and operated until 1997 when the publican walked away when he could not get a buyer, he retired from the pub aged 82 years. There is a memorial to him at the back of the hotel , which indicates that he operated the hotel from 1954 until 1997. Even though the memorial has a large rock with a plaque and a long stretch of dirt which makes you think that he is buried there. We are not sure. We decided to stay the night down on the river and set up the fire and Ian dropped a couple of yabby traps in the river, as usual the water is that dirty yellow colour. We had our lunch and set up the satellite dish for the football and then we wandered up to the hotel for another look and we able to gain entry and have a good look about. They certainly did it hard all the power to run the hotel was generated on site and most of the generation gear is still intact one 8kva Lister and a 12kva Kubota.
The day is warm again which is great for we have been wearing shorts now for a week, the temperature was 24 degrees with a nice cool breeze the only problem is that there are a million fly's. At 4pm we are watching the North Melbourne V Western Bulldogs. We are going to make a damper in the small camp oven to go with our roo stew for our meal tonight we sat by the fire and partake in a bit of outback eating.
Kilometers travelled 96


3 Trailer road train	Betoota Hotel	Memory stone to last publican

Monday the 29th
Ian checked his yabby pots this morning and ended up with a half of bucket of very nice Yabbies, he indicated he would cook them and we would have them for lunch. We were busily packing to move on this morning and we heard a horn blow and on looking up it was Freedom 13 Len & Sandra. What a surprise! They were to inform us that since they left us at Marree they had driven down to Port Augusta then onto Broken Hill, Cobar and up through Yowie, Quilpie and and had camped at Deon's Lookout last night. We couldn't believe the amount of driving they had done to meet up with us again. We said our goodbye's and then we headed off I hadn't gone 200 metre's when the motorhome bogged in the sand. Len noticed we were in trouble so both he and Ian come down to give us a hand, we unhooked the Suzuki and then shoveled the sand away from the back tyres and shoved some corrugated iron sheets under the wheels and we were out in no time at all and then re hooked the car and we were on our way.
The road was no better in fact it only went from bad to worse, the countryside was so nice it made up for the roughness of the road and anyway we should only drive to the condition of the road. We wish someone would enforce that with the 4x4 brigade. Just enjoying the scenery and I didn't notice the big rock and I heard it hit really hard under the truck though everything appeared to be OK. Before we knew it we were coming onto bitumen which was great for the motorhome was traveling much better and as we wanted to travel up to Dion's Lookout we turned off the bitumen onto gravel for two kilometers that was worse than the road. We were in second gear and as Ian was behind us he radioed and asked if I had punctured a water tank for their was a trail of water on the road that he could see.
When we finally arrived at the lookout I hopped out of the Motorhome and we could hear the water running onto the dirt, EXCUSE ME! It wasn't water it was diesel running out quite fast onto the ground luckily both tanks have a stop tap and I was able to turn it off. I was a mess with diesel on my shirt and shorts and on checking you could see where a rock has gouged the steel back its original shiny-ness and it had cut through the heavy rubberised hose between both tanks. Luckily I had made sure that both tanks were full before we left Birdsville. The second tank should have seen us through to Windorah and I suspect I may have lost up to or in excess of 10 litre's of diesel. I am now on the main tank so it is not a problem, whilst there I noticed that the clamp holding the exhaust pipe was missing so I strapped that up with the wire that I had picked up at Betoota, thank goodness.


Our river camp at Betoota	Ian's half a bucket of Yabbies

We had our cup of tea and took in the wonderful views and unfortunately you can take as many photo's you like they do not record what the naked can see, back down onto the road and we then entered the Barcoo Shire and the road was no better. We have now left the sand dune and desert country and have entered the Channel Country where the scenery has changed and there are no more red sand dunes just mountains and break away's in the distance. It is now that time of day where the mirage's appear and they place a totally different concept of the beauty of the land. We finally came to the end of the gravel and entered two lane bitumen what a wonderful change and then we turned onto the main highway to Windorah and stopped at the rest area just along the road. Yabbies for lunch and there were plenty for everyone, we used up the last of our bread and covered them with seafood cocktail sauce, beautiful Mate!
We have now just completed over a thousand kilometers of gravel roads since we left Lyndhurst in South Australia on the way to Birdsville and then Windorah and even given a few breakages and the fuel line we never had one puncture which was great and how could you not quickly forget the quality of about 200 kilometers of the road that was rough to experience what we have. Do it again? For sure in the reverse direction, though we would probably go even slower than we did and enjoy more of the bore's and rivers and as for Birdsville we both agree it is a gem in the desert and we can boast we climbed Big Red and other small sand dunes in the Simpson Desert in the Suzuki that has taken a beating towed behind the Motorhome. The many blankets and window covers and the bra have done an excellent job protecting the car though we could not foresee the cracking of the window screen.
We have now camped up beside a dry river bed some 100 kilometers short of Windorah and gathered wood to cook on and to sit by the fire tonight, I am doing this diary a little earlier today. OH! WELL! off to happy hour. Open the fridge ma and get out a few coldies to celebrate our journey to date. Later after cooking our evening meal on the camp fire, especially the spuds in foil, we sat out under the stars and when the fire reduced we came inside and watched the video "Shrek 3" before going off to bed.


Beautiful country from Dion's Lookout	The "Cathedrals" in the distance

Tuesday the 30th
A nice peaceful nights sleep and after packing away we were on the road again by 8:30am bound for Windorah. The road was still single lane bitumen and we were to come across many 4x4 towing trailers driving as if there was no tomorrow, at least a few of them where getting off the road and letting us have the bitumen.
We were to pull up at Mt Henderson to have a look at the hole that goes right through the mountain you could see the hole from the road so it must be large. Then we were to pull up to see many Native Wells that aborigine's used as they crossed this country that is still arid.
They are a most unusual water well for they are not deep at all and we supposed that through seepage these wells remained full all year round, Next we were to go off the road to have a look at JC Ruins an old pub that the manager of the local cattle station bought and closed down for he alleged that his workers were spending to much time in the pub and not working. He took the roof off the hotel altogether and as the walls were made of mud bricks it didn't take to many years for the ruins to appear. We were still going across flat country in between many mountains and the vegetation was starting to green along with wild flowers and the wattle trees flowering, beautiful country.


Back on the road to Windorah	Mt Henderson	Native Well

We were to come across many roo's killed on the road and there were Wedge Tailed Eagles feeding on the carcase unfortunately again they were to fly off before we could take photo's of them. Sandy dunes were appearing again and then we came across a sign that indicated that this is one of the catchment areas for Lake Eyre and as we turned the corner there before us were many Billabong's full of water and with plenty of birdlife especially ducks. We have not seen country so green and with plenty of cattle both Brahman and Drought Master breeds. As we rolled across the vast plains the greenery was amazing and the water was so close to the road.


Billabong with plenty of bird life	Very green countryside

Traffic was increasing and there were a few cowboys in their 4x4s and luckily it wasn't long before we were coming into Windorah a small progressive outback town that has improved a lot since we were here some years ago. It was now the moment of truth the amount of diesel we took on left no doubt that we had lost in excess of 30 litre's when the pipe was severed by the large rock. Though I was offered many variances of pipes I rejected them on the basis that they would not be resistant to diesel. The price for diesel was 1.28.9 at the Mobil station and $1.45 cents a litre at the shell bowser at the shop, needless to say it is obvious where we filled up. Even though the second tank is full I am unable to access this until there is a new line fitted between the tanks, hopefully we will get the right pipe at Quilpie in a few days time.
We bought some bread and had a couple of pies and a cappuccino for our lunch before we filled with water again for our adventures ahead.


Water everywhere	Sand Hills appearing again	Solar Panels for power for Windorah

On to the online centre, though I couldn't upload the diary for they only had land line available and it would have to much time given the amount of photo's. Just out of town is a huge complex of solar power dishes that apparently supply the town with enough power during the daylight hours before switching to diesel powered turbines for the rest of the day.
Even though Ian and Denise are turning off to go onto Jundah they have decided to come and spend a couple more days with us camped on the Cooper River some 16 kilometers out of Windorah on the way to Quilpie. After setting up camp along with the satellite dish it was time for happy hour and with the outside temperature 30 degrees we headed for shade.
We lit the fire again and cooked out evening meal there and enjoyed it by the fire even though the temperature had only dropped to 25 degrees at 7:45pm. We went inside later and watched television for awhile before retiring for the night. One thing about this type of weather is that as the night draws out it gets colder.
Kilometers travelled 118

July 2009

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